chenwah_lee

<p>I read a lot of complaints in other forums regarding this issue. A lot of people claimed to have solved this problem by updating the driver of the display card to its newest version from the maunfacturer's website.<br>

Good luck.</p>

I have done a test to compare the IQ of the 70-200 F2.8 IS with the Canon 2X MarkII attached to that taken with the Zeiss 350 Superachromat with an adapter on the 5D. I assume the Zeiss 350 Superachromat is a very very good prime lens for medium format. Smart sharpening of (100, 2.0, 0) is applied to all images. I do not see much difference of IQ in both the centre and corner crops. Photos are shown in the following link: http://www.pbase.com/cwlee/lens_test

I have a group of street photos all taken at night without using flash and tripod, and all were taken with the widest zoom range of LX2 at ISO 100-400 in jpeg without post-camera adjustment.

http://www.pbase.com/cwlee/hongkong_streets

CW Lee<div></div>

Here is the photo.<div></div>

Ideal focal length for outdoors head and shoulder shot. Photo taken at f/2.8 with SF set to 1.

"3-testing"<div></div>

"2-winter"<div></div>

Photo "1-summer" was taken in a normal summer sunny day with

polarizer and the blue sky was enhanced to my satisfaction. Photo "2-

winter" was taken recently in a minus 30 degrees C sunny day with a

polarizer but the blue sky looks terrible with white dots and uneven

distribution of colors. The two photos were 100% crop from pictures

taken with the same 350D at ISO 100 at full resolution. The same

unpleasant effect of "2-winter" was present in the sky of every

pictures taken in the same morning, either in raw or jpeg formats,

and showed up on the 10x15 Fuji prints too. I thought the sensor was

damaged in the cold. Today I tried to verify if the sensor is

permantly damaged or if it can work perfectly again in normal

temperature so I did a control testing as shown in "3-testing". I

used a red filter to shoot a large light table and the result seems

to show that the sensor is all right again. My questions are: 1) has

anyone experienced the same problems as in "2-winter"? 2) what is

the limit of low temperature below which the sensor will produce

photos like "2-winter"? 3) any possibility that the sensor will be

permantly damaged under even colder temperature?<div></div>

1) "Noise oil" or any marks on your computer screen will not be captured in a screenshot. 2)My photo _MG_0201 above is from the original digital file, not reproduced from screenshots, and I do not think Pete's photo is from screenshot either. 3) The mark is always on the same location of the each photo, no matter where you move the photo on the monitor. So there is nothing to do with mark on the monitor. The mark is sometimes not noticeable if the background is very busy or is the same color shade as the mark. There are different ways to remove dust from sensors but for my EOS350D the first step to try is to blow the dust away with a dust blower and it works.

I think it is caused by dust on sensor. My picture attached at 100%crop shows a similar dark spot which appears on the same position of every picture taken in the same trip, regardless of the lenses used.

After I discovered this I checked the surface of the sensor and did find a dust in that position and then I cleaned the sensor with a blower as recommended in the user's manual. The dust was gone and there is no more dark spot in the pictures taken later.

I have the same experience like Rob but I later found out that you can take the pair of plates out of the metal frame which holds the two plates together. Then you can clean each plate separately. Of course you need to put them back together in it's original sequence and direction otherwise focusing will not be accurate.

Happy New Year.

I bought a box of T-MAX 100 film of 50 sheets from Man Shing, 106, Tung Choi St, Mongkok last week for HK$280. I saw at least 20 other boxes on the shelves. Color Six and East Asia do 4x5 B/W developing and enlarging. New enlargers can be ordered from Kowloon Life Photo. Used enlargers of any size are advertised in foto28.com.

 

C.W. Lee

Please check the price in the following web site:

http://www.tincheungcamera.com.hk/index.php

Metallic black paint body integrated with a fine Vulkanite leather; silver protection ring rounds the lens release lock; white frame number on black background of the frame counter; coupling groove in the retro shutter speed setting dial that links to the external meter MR and to do away with the bright red logo.

Another picture of it.

Leica announced the availability of a new MP: "At the top of the

body, each is engraved with Limited Edition Serial No. from MP-001

to MP-500". "By taking away the electronic exposure system, its

viewfinder is big and clear, so photographers can really enjoy the

freedom of taking shots by intuition". It comes with a Summicron-M

50mm f/2 50 JAHRE Summicron with the same serial number as on the

body engraved on it.<div></div>

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005jM2

Will upsize while in 16 bits result in a better quality photo than in 8 bits mode in theory? Thanks.

I have an experience to share regarding the Canon lens ghosting

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005jM2

 

C.W. Lee

Jay, this is what you sent to me two years ago and it works: "On the top of the camera there is a small rectangular plastic plug. You need to *very carfeully* pry it off with the tip of a knife. Inside you'll see what looks like a gear next to a bracket with a notch at the top. By placing a small screwdriver across the notch and the gear, the notch acts as a leverage point so that when you turn the screwdriver it moves the gear forward and backward. This adjusts the infinity convergence of the rangefinder. A little movement is all that is required, don't turn it much (and I forgot which way to turn it but you'll figure it out quickly). Put a lens on the camera, set the lens on infinity and sight at a sharp, vertical-line target *at least a mile away* (such as a radio or tv tower). Between slight adjustments, turn the lens to the closest distance and back to infinity a couple of times, then re-check. Once you get it adjusted, pick up a *drop* of clear nail polish on the end of a toothpick and deposit it between the gear and bracket. When replacing the plastic plug *be sure it is sitting squarely over the hole (not on an angle!) and push it in place *with even pressure* till it snaps into place (be careful not to seat it unevenly as it is rather soft plastic and you can break off the retaining tabs). Hope this helps.

 

Jay "