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jamespaulsarte

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Posts posted by jamespaulsarte

  1. Hello everyone, I'm hoping someone could clarify a question for me. I

    recently acquired a Sekonic Studio Pro L-398 light meter. The

    instructions were not very clear as to how to use the meter properly

    for standard landscape or scenery pictures.

     

    It tells me to take a measurement with the Lumisphere from the

    camera's position? I'm assuming that I should hold the light meter

    directly in front of me with the lumisphere pointed towards me or the

    lens of my camera. Is this correct? As I understood, the Lumisphere

    is primarily for incident measurements.. how can I get an accurate

    reading if I'm not measuring directly in front of the subject?

     

    I understand how to use the lumisphere and incident readings properly

    if the subject is close to me, but how do I take a measurement of

    let's say, a mountain that is over a mile away? Do I need to use the

    lumigrid, and do a reflected measurement? The manual tells me that I

    need to be as close as possible to my subject if using the lumigrid to

    take a reflected light measurement.

     

    Hope someone can help.

     

    James

  2. I just noticed that now when clicking upon the link to bring up the

    entire list of comments for Gallery photos, it will give me this error

    message:<p>

     

    <B>We had a problem processing your entry:

    This feature is disabled

    Please back up using your browser, correct it, and resubmit your

    entry. <p>

     

    Thank you.</b><p>

     

    It was working prior to the site crash.

  3. BTW, I forgot to mention... by your last post it seems you've already made up your mind, and are just trying to justify a 1000 dollar purchase on an obsolete camera. I'm not trying to bust your balls, but if you really abide and believe in the mentality you have regarding digital, resolutions, etc.. than don't bother waiting. Go get yourself a 4 or 5 mp point and shoot and be done with it. The only advantage a D1 might offer over something like a PS, is build quality and the ability to take a wide range of Nikkor lenses. Other than that, you're probably going to waste your money.
  4. The question is, why do you feel you need a D1 in the first place? If it's because of money... then you can get a D70 when it comes out, and probably be more impressed with it afterwards. If it's because you're already in the Nikon system, than ANY digital cam that takes Nikon lenses will work. If you don't care for megapixels like the rest of the so-called 'digital kooks', then buy anything and be happy. What do you need our input for?
  5. How does your camcorder connect? If it's a Canon, and its a newer camcorder (like Mini-DV), then chances are you have a firewire connector on it. If this is the case, you'll need a firewire port on your PC as well. If you don't have one, you can buy a firewire card from eBay or CompUSA for under 20 bucks.

     

    As for software - there's a lot to choose from, all ranging from inexpensive home movie kind of stuff, to software that ranges in the thousands of dollars professional category. On my Mac, I use Final Cut Pro 4 with a JVC mini-dv. On the PC, I'm using a less expensive software, but quite capable made by Pinnacle Studios. The Pinnacle Studio software cost me about 300 bucks a few years back.

     

    Hope that helps.

     

    James

  6. Thank you for your suggestions and comments everyone. I've decided to just go ahead and sell the lens. There's no point fiddling with something brand new, and what may not have worked for me properly, may well for someone else. As a replacement I am considering Tokina's 28-80 AT-X Pro 2.8 lens instead. I will test it more before deciding to buy - so lesson learned!
  7. Get a Kiev 19M manual camera. Brand new with a 50mm f/2 is 80 bucks from kievcamera.com. This is a Russian made camera. I have one that I use as a cheap backup body, and works beautifully with all of my Nikkor and 3rd party AI or AIS lenses. It also works fine with Nikons AF-D lenses, but not G's (no aperture ring). For the money, you can't beat it. Takes great pics (see my portfolio). It has TTL metering, but only caveat is that the fastest it will go is 1/500.
  8. I recently acquired a Sigma 28mm f1.8II Aspherical lens from a small

    store in Manhattan. Perhaps I should have done more homework, but

    it was a spur of the moment purchase - which may lead me to regret.

    Suffice it to say, I didn't pay very much for it and it is brand new.

     

    Here's my problem though: when using this lens with my N80 body,

    the lens will focus quickly, but sometimes it's not very sharp.

    When I switch the camera to manual focus, I can get a clearer image

    through the viewfinder. When I switch it back to AF once the image

    is in focus, and depress the shutter button half way, the lens will

    focus, but 8 times out of 10 it will go back to an image that is not

    as sharp as if I just focused manually. This does not seem to be an

    issue with even my cheapest Nikon lens which is a 28-80 G lens. Is

    this a back-focus issue, and is there any way to fix this?

     

    THanks,

     

    James

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