jamespaulsarte

John,

 

I've found MLU to be helpful in long exposure astrophotography like moon and nebulae

shots with 35mm cameras. I don't see why it wouldn't help with regular scenic night

photography with the RZ. I do it anyway, takes less than a second. But, do whatever floats

your boat.

 

James

If you have access to a different lens, try that first without sending the entire thing back. Your lens diaphram may be sticky if it hasn't been used in a while. If it's just the lens causing problems, you could always opt to sending it in to Mamiya for a CLA - $212.00 for a standard lens overhaul.

 

Regards,

 

James

Congrats on your camera. RZ67's are some of the best MF cameras around. I too purchased an RZ67 Pro IID a month ago, and had similar questions regarding the MLU operation. Here's what I've learned:

 

1. Bulb mode will not function with MLU unless you are using 2 seperate cable releases (the one on the body being held down for the duration of the exposure) OR you purchase the Mamiya double cable release, OR you use one cable release on the lens, and use your finger to hold down the shutter release button on the body.

 

2.In your situation, be sure that the release which comes out first is the one screwed into the camera body. The one which comes out second goes into the lens. Check to make sure that when the lens release is screwed in, that the red circle on the plunger comes up from the lens body. Check your cables for binding.

 

3. If that fails, screw in a standard cable release into the lens socket only, and try and activate the mirror up function with your finger on the shutter release button.

 

4. I tend to use the mirror up with almost all of my photographs that drop below 1/60 or 1/30, and definitely with time and bulb exposures. Most of my photography is done on location, and I need to make sure I get that perfectly sharp shot. It only takes an extra second to perform the MLU, and another second to wait for the camera body to stabilize. When I perform night photography exposures (sometimes exceeding 30 seconds in duration), I definitely use MLU. The same goes for macro photography.

 

I hope I've helped answer some of your questions. Good luck and good light,

 

James

I have a Pro II D bought new from B&H a month ago. I'd like to buy a

backup body in case of problems during a shoot. I would be interested

in knowing whether items such as lenses and backs for the Pro IID

would be compatible with the first generation RZ67. I'm pretty sure

items like the AE finder and winder are not, but am more interested

about backs and lenses.

 

Thanks,

 

James

So, is this the same with others who have the RZ67?

OK. Did a bit more testing, and I was a bit wrong in my previous answer. When the

camera is set to bulb mode, and the shutter release button is pressed, the mirror goes up

as normal and the shutter closes. Then once the shutter release cable on the lens is

depressed, the shutter opens but then closes right away again - even if the cable release

button is held down.

 

Only if the shutter release button on the body is kept depressed and then the cable release

on the lens is fired, will the shutter remain open; until the shutter release button on the

body is released.

 

James

Weird. It really is. I don't want to spend more money on a dual cable release, but for the

life of me, I can't figure out why the shutter will not open in bulb mode while using MLU.

 

The shutter will open on the other slow speeds like 2s, 4s, and 8s just fine when using

mirror lock up, but once switched to bulb mode, the shutter will not open when using the

cable release attached to the lens. It will however open if for example, you press the

shutter release button first (and keep it held down), then press the cable release on the

lens and let it go. The shutter will then remain open for as long as you still have the

shutter release button on the body depressed.

 

Do I make sense? Furthermore, to make matters more confusing... the manual does not

state much about using MLU and Bulb, but in the back it makes a warning note stating: the

dual cable release should be used when using MLU and Bulb together.

 

I don't think there's a problem with the camera as it's brand new. The lenses are both new

as well, and I tested this with the 110mm and 50 ULD. Both act the same way in bulb

mode when mirror lock up is used.

 

I've already posted this over in the Mamiya User's Group, but no reply yet. I was just

hoping someone here with an RZ Pro II or Pro II D could confirm this.

 

Regards,

 

James

I did prefire the shutter release button, then pressed the plunger on the cable release. All

that happened was a click from the lens. Shutter did not open at all. What I did find out

though, is that if one attaches a second cable release to the shutter release button on the

body, then in this order: fire the shutter release on the body and hold it down, then press

the button for the cable attached to the lens and let it go, the shutter will in fact remain

open for up to 60 seconds... ONLY if you keep the shutter release button depressed.

 

I think I will have to purchase the dual cable release.

 

James

While away on my trip, there were several instances where I had to use MLU and bulb

mode together with the RZ67 Pro II D. The problem is that when the camera is in bulb and

I have the cable release plunger screwed into the lens, when depressed, nothing happens.

The lens clicks, but the shutter does not open. It seems to work fine however if I screw

another cable release into the shutter release button on the body, and manually fire the

shutter and MLU using 2 seperate cable releases.

 

Do I need to purchase a dual cable release in order to properly use MLU and bulb at the

same time?

Dust will not be a problem in the lens. Don't worry, happy shooting, and good light.

I recently travelled to Mauritius for work. Departed from JFK, and had a layover in CDG. I brought my tripod (Giottos 9180, Bogen 488RC4) onto Air France in New York. I was in business class. No problems encountered. However when connecting to my second flight in Paris (also business class), the security screeners wouldn't let me board the aircraft with it. I was forced to check it in, and unfortunately for me, my tripod bag wasn't well padded. When I got to Mauritius, I found my tripod with a knob broken. Fortunately, that was all that happened. Now I will always pack my tripod in a suitcase. I am not willing to take the risk.

Hi Elliot, unfortunately my pockets aren't that big. ;-)

Thanks for the replies everyone. It's been awhile since I've shot film (switched to Canon

20D's when they came out), but I've got a new project which requires 6x7 format, so I'm

bringing the Mamiya. Well, it's good to know the film will still be OK; I just wasn't sure if

the TSA bumped up the specs on the X-ray machines to make them more powerful.

 

Regards,

 

James

Thanks. BTW, what about effects of X-ray machines on B&W film? Should be of no

concern right? If not, I'm just gonna run everything through the carryon scanner, and not

be bothered with holding up the line.

 

Thanks,

 

James

I have taken all of the 120 roll film I will be bringing with me as carry-on out of their

boxes, and placed them into clear zip-lock bags. Would it also be advisable to remove the

film from their silver aluminum/paper wrapping? I do not have any high speed film with

me on this trip, just Agfa APX-100 B&W, and Fuji Superia 100.

 

Regards,

 

James

Greetings! I am a new Mamiya RZ67 Pro IID owner. I just purchased the value kit new

from B&H. I have already started familiarizing myself with its functions, but there is the

issue of the custom setting for Bulb exposure which confuses me. This information is

found on page 60 of the manual.

 

I don't understand what it means by "remove the roll film holder from the body". Should I

remove the entire back from the body before doing this, then reattach the back when I am

ready to take a bulb exposure? I am also unsure of the meaning, "keep the shutter button

pressed for 10 seconds."

 

Also, does this custom setting stay set until I undo it by removing the camera's battery?

 

Finally, when this custom setting has been programed, when I go into bulb mode, upon

depressing the shutter button, will there not be a 60 second time limit anymore? Is this

what is meant by this function, instead of having to use the T setting, I can essentially use

bulb for longer exposures than one minute?

 

Regards,

 

James

Hello,

 

I recently purchased a new RZ67 Pro IID value kit from B&H. I will

have the camera tomorrow, but in the meantime I've been reading the

manual and have a quick question.

 

Can the shutter speeds be changed at any time, i.e. can I change

shutter speeds before or after cocking the camera? The reason I ask

is I'm coming from Kiev 88 and Hassy 1000 experience, where it was

imperative that the shutter speed be adjusted only after the camera

was cocked. Doing so prior to cocking the camera would damage the

slow and high speed shutter gears.

 

Thanks,

 

James

 

P.S. I also bought a 50mm ULD L lens. I haven't found too much info

on the net regarding this, but would like to hear your opinions on it

if you own one.

Thanks very much for your input. I will do that when I get home.

Hello,

 

I recently acquired my first 1 degree spot meter. It's a used but in

good condition Soligor digital spot meter, which I believe is the same

unit as the Adorama model, and very very similar to the Pentax meter.

My question is this: I found a Zone dial for the Pentax meter last

night that I can print out and stick onto the meter. Will it work for

the Soligor, and if so, how do I apply it (align it correctly).

 

Thanks,

 

James

When I was in highschool, I took a photography class where the Zone

system was taught and implemented into practice. I have a silly

question; I'm trying to refresh my memory, and hope someone can answer

this.

 

For example:

 

If I have a subject that I want to place into Zone III, and my initial

spot readings tell me that this object will be 1/125 at f8 (Zone V), I

will reduce by two stops. I can either do this by increasing the

shutter speed (1/500, f8), or by stopping down aperture (1/125, f16).

What I'm trying to remember is if the combination of shutter speed and

aperture can also equate to 2 stops. For example, from 1/125 at f8

(Zone V), I want to place a subject in Zone III, can I just change my

aperture and shutter speed values to 1/250 at f/11. Do I make sense?

 

I know it's a silly question, but for the life of me I just can't

remember what my teacher said, and I want to be sure.

 

Thanks,

 

James

Hello everyone!

 

I just wanted to let you guys know that I've created a new forum for Kiev MF and Russian

camera users. It's a growing community specialized in Russian and Ukranian photo

equipment, although catered more towards Kiev MF users. You can find the forum site

here:

 

http://tkr2.vodamin.com

 

Thanks for your time!

 

James

I've got a few large specs of dust under the glass of my new 3170 as well. I'm contemplating taking it back, but knowing my luck, I'd probably get one that's worse.

 

For now, I think a clone stamp would be better than trying to take the thing apart.

Thanks for your responses. One final question though - when using the lumisphere, I would stand with my back to the subject and the lumisphere facing the camera lens. Do I hold the meter horizontally or vertically? In other words, would the lumisphere be pointed towards the sky, or directly towards the meter.

Thanks Floyd for your response, but I've already tried doing a search and have not found a thread similar to what you've reported. Perhaps it's no longer on the database?

Typo: I meant to say, 'Sekonic Studio Deluxe' instead of Studio Pro. Hope that does not confuse anyone.