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tjavery

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Posts posted by tjavery

  1. > I would like to know if there is polarizer and/or warming

     

    > polarizer that people have used with the Tokina 12-24 that

     

    > has front threads and does not produce vignetting.

     

    I've used a "regular"* B+W cir. polarizer on the Tokina 12-24mm. It produced no vig. on a Canon 1.6x crop body.

     

    * i.e. not the wide-angle or slim version; mine had full front threads.

  2. Is there a future? - I'll give it a maybe, IMO. I look to PN as a secondary site for information and forums. I read other photos sites first (when I sit down and have surfin' time) and prefer them over PN.

     

    I did look to PN for photo critiques as a tool to help me learn photography and better my skills, but I was greatly disappointed. I'm relatively new in the ratings/critiquing thing here, and found it not worth the $25/yr spent.

     

    I requested a critique on a photo just a few weeks ago, and started to get ratings only SECONDS after posting (yes, I was eager and was checking that soon). I received 3's from anonymous users. WTF?

     

    However, to put things in perspective, I've sought out critiques on my photos from many other sites, and no system seems perfect. There's always problems and things that are very dissastisfying.

     

    I think the problem (or a part of the problem) is with people. They don't seem to take the time to really look at a photo and think about it. They glance at it for a few miliseconds and then fire off a rating or a hastily written critique. Then, it's on to the next 100 photos for them...

     

    Perhaps part of the problem is with information overload. There's so much stuff about photography on the 'net. There are loads of sites and millions of photos to look at and offer some sort of response.

     

    To craft a meaningful critique about someone's photo, you should take your time, look, think, and ponder it, IMO.

     

    On a positive note - there are some really great photos stored in the PN galleries, and I do enjoy looking at them.

  3. I believe some of the lenses with the "circular aperture" feature only work until you reach a certain aperture. For example, the 17-40mm f/4L has a circular aperture for f/5.6 and wider. If you stop down past f/5.6, then you get the "normal" aperture opening- whatever the blades produce. At least that's what I remember from reading the marketing stuff a while back.
  4. I paid about $180 for one last year (used from B&H; excellent condition). Several months later, I sold it for about $170 on Ebay (I replaced it w/ a better lens).

     

    Of course that was last year. I'm not sure what the going rate is now for one of these lenses. It could very well be over $200- these are great lenses for the price and they're discontinued.

     

    I used mine on a 300D and had no problems.

  5. I had this lens for over a year, and I used it on a Digital Rebel. I cannot tell you how it performs full-frame, but it did okay on the DR (crop = 1.6).

    <p>

    I found that the short end (24mm) was a little soft, even when stopped down f/8 - f/16 (as compared to the EFS 18-55mm kit lens). The longer end was pretty good. It was on par with an EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 that I got after the 24-200mm

    <p>

    The bad thing about this lens is that the barrel is a little floppy when extended out to 200mm. Also, the AF motor completely sucks as compared to a Canon USM AF motor. The Tokina is slow and noisy. It does not have full-time manual focus. In fact, you must switch the lens to MF in order to even move the AF ring by hand. It uses relatively large 72mm diameter filters (not too bad, but more expensive than typical 58's).

    <p>

    Otherwise, it's a good all-purpose lens for the money. It's big, heavy, and feels good in regards to balance and heft. I always felt that I could hold my camera more steady with it.

    <p>

    If you pick through my website, you'll find photos taken with the 24-200. Check out the section with birds.

    <p>

    best,<br>

    TJ Avery<br>

    <a href="http://www.texbrick.com">www.texbrick.com</a>

  6. To boost contrast (locally), duplicate the layer (assuming your photo is contained in one layer) in PS. Apply USM (20,50,0) to the duplicate layer, then change the blending mode to Luminosity. Adjust the opacity to your liking. I usually set it 20% - 40%.

    <p>

    Next, add 3 Channel Mixer layers:<br>

    1) Select red, then set the % as 120, -10, -10<br>

    2) Select green, then set the % as -10, 120, -10<br>

    3) Select blue, then set the % as -10, -10, 120<br>

     

    Go to each of the channel mixer layers and change the blend mode to COLOR. Adjust the opacity to what looks best. I find 50% - 70% for each works best.

    <p>

    best,<br>

    TJ<br>

    <a href="http://www.texbrick.com/photo">My Photos</a>

  7. The now discontinued Canon 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 is an awesome lens. Here is a small gallery of photos I've taken using this lens:<br>

    <a href="http://www.texbrick.com/photo/nat05/index.html">www.texbrick.com/photo/nat05/index.html</a>

    <p>

    AF speed and performance is excellent due to the ring-type USM. This lens has better optical quality than the 100-300mm that Canon now makes. Surf around the 'net for reviews and you'll find proof.

    <p>

    You can usually find one used for around $180 (USD), give or take a few $. Check out Ebay and <a href="http://www.keh.com">www.keh.com</a>.

    <p>

    best,<br>

    TJ Avery

  8. Yes, Mercer and the Police Officers Memorial are both great places. The TPF (Texas Photo Forums, <a href="http://www.texasphotoforum.com">www.texasphotoforum.com</a>) June and July shooting events happened to cover those locations. You can get more info and also look at members' photos here:

    <p>

    Downtown Houston Photo Shoot (June):<br>

    <a href="http://www.texasphotoforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5085">http://www.texasphotoforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5085</a>

    <p>

    Mercer Arboretum Photo Shoot (July):<br>

    <a href="http://www.texasphotoforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5962">http://www.texasphotoforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5962</a>

    <p>

    best regards,<br>

    TJ Avery<br>

    <a href="http://www.texbrick.com/photo">www.texbrick.com/photo</a>

  9. There is a Best Buy on Richmond Ave. just south of the Galleria. They should have the latest base-level DSLRs (Canon Rebel XT, Nikon D70, Oly E300).

     

    If you want to shop a real camera store, expect to pay 10-15% more. The Houston Camera Exchange is just west (a mile or two) of the Best Buy on Richmond.

     

    -TJ

  10. > so in order to avoid any problem is recommended to do not use the FTM feauture on this lens? is this right?

     

    I think that's the general consensus. The link between the focussing motor and the outer focussing ring is the weak link. It may give out or be damaged from excessive FTM.

     

    I also believe that you should protect the inner lens barrel from shock loads, as hitting it will put stress on the interal focussing parts.

     

    -TJ

  11. I just posted to another thread about using the Canon plastic lens hood for the 50mm f/1.4. I don't have it (I use a generic rubber hood that screws into the filther threads), but the real hood fits onto the main body of the lens. This will physically protect the inner lens "barrel"- the one that moves in and out when focussing- from bumps and unnecessary loading.

     

    I've had the same AF problems as mentioned previously, and I think it's because I once dropped the lens on it's front. I don't use FTM, and have focussed manually only after turning off the AF switch.

     

    It's a shame that there are so many people reporting problems with this lens. It's a great prime and I love to use mine.

     

    -TJ

  12. The same thing has happened to my 50mm f/1.4. The lens had taken a hard hit to the front (enough to jam the lens cap down into the filter threads), and now the AF won't rotate out of the minimum focus region. I have to manually rotate the focus ring a bit, and then the AF motor will take over.

     

    I use a generic rubber hood that screws into the filter threads, and it doesn't offer much protection. But I've noticed that the real hood (from Canon) will fit bayonet-style onto the main barrel itself. This hood, which is hard plastic, would definitely guard against shock-loading the inner lens barrel.

     

    -TJ

  13. Hey, I found it! I don't remember where I got this bit of text, but you could probably use Google and search for it if you want to locate the source:

     

    "Minolta Angle Finder VN: A great alternative to the Canon Angle Finder C offering the same features for 30% less... fits perfectly onto the Digital rebels viewfinder and gives you a choice of 1x or 2x magnification."

     

    -TJ

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