liam_maloney
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Posts posted by liam_maloney
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Oops, that's what you do for M4 - M6 cameras. Sorry, I'm not sure what the protocol is for
M3s. I think you need to fashion a tool out of a paperclip or something. Huw?
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Jonathan, pull up the rewind lever: there is a set screw that the rewind knob rotates
around. Stick a screwdriver into the slot of this screw, hold on tight and turn the knob
counter-clockwise. It may take a significant amount of force, but once it's been loosened,
the knob just unscrews from the camera body. Underneath you'll probably find a few
washers - be careful not to lose these! Hope that helps.
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Raid, that location (man in a pool) is amazing. Go back and shoot a roll or two of it. There
are some incredible opportunities to be had there. Your photo is great, but I think you
could really nail it if you spent an hour playing with the composition. I want more pylons
in the shot, and a slightly tighter, more geometric crop. Go! Wish I was there.
Liam
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Re: film quantities - a good rule of thumb is to estimate how much film you will need,
then bring double. Film is cheap! OT - are you going to load up on Diamox, or acclimatize
the old-fashioned way?
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Hey Andy, try Fuji NPS 160 or NPH 400. These films have fine grain, generous latitude and
will be able to handle the often contrasty light found in that region. An extra M body and a
superwide might be a good idea, but it's nice to travel light. Have an amazing trip!
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The german summicron 35 is sometimes referred to as a near-pancake lens. The canadian
summicron 35 is known as a puck.
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If it's used, you may want to consider replacing the seals. Otherwise, when flooded, the
camera becomes a damp, rusty paperweight. Apart from that, have a blast, and try
shooting some b&w down there. There's an australian photographer named Trent Parke
who did a great series on beach life - check out his underwater shots: (cut 'n paste)
http://www.stillsgallery.com.au/artists/t_parke/index_02.php
L
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Cool, I really like seeing sequences of photos, they show me what people are looking for
and how they see. A bit like a sketchbook.
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Ilford HP5+
Neopan 1600
both in XTOL 1:2
Colour is often NPS or NPZ
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The only jerk I've ever noticed is the one behind my viewfinder... It's about 6 feet tall.
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I think we've already been over this a few times.
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Toke, Leros is a great book. Here's a link to a brief piece on Majoli, from a while back:
http://www.apple.com/ca/pro/photo/majoli/index2.html
Cheers, L
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Are you guys for real?
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This is great:
http://www.magnuminmotion.com/tolstory/index.html
Featured on the International Herald Tribune site. I'm a big fan of using audio with a
slideshow to enhance the presentation. Photojournalism is moving in this direction very
quickly, as newspapers look for web content that is less static.
It's nice to see that Leica is still supporting projects like this.
L
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I used one of these for several years. You have a few options; push in the frameline
selector with your thumb while shooting (quite simple, really), modify the lens or buy an
accessory 28mm finder. A little gaffer tape would probably lock down the frameline
selector as well. It's a great lens, very compact and as good as the old elmarits. Enjoy!
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What Richie said. Heck, get a lens while you're at it, so that you can use it to make
pictures.
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The latest Rob Galbraith has an interesting interview with Magnum's boy wonder Alex
Majoli. He shoots all his assignments with point 'n shoot cameras. It's a good read, with
some powerful images to boot. For what it's worth, Majoli was a Leica-iste before he
discovered the joys of P&S digital cameras. Check it out:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-6468-7844
L
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Nice, Jeff, i like #11 the best. Great moment, nice light. A lot of boxing photos are peak-
action shots - you do a great job of capturing the ambiance. Thanks for the link Mark.
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Looks ain't the issue. The foot of my current finder broke off; I glued it back. Now the
front element is delaminating, causing lotsa flare. The whole thing is full of dust. It's not
as enjoyable to look through as it used to be. I just want a clean, clear, relatively accurate
VF that won't break too easily. The VC finder might be a good option, but I also like the
idea of etching 24 framelines into an old 21 finder. Hmmm. Thanks for all your responses,
btw.
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Wow, 500 bucks is a lot of money to spend on a VF. Huw - here's a MAD project idea: stuff
the optics from my beat-up 24mm VF into the metal housing of an old Leitz 21mm... or
etch additional framelines onto an existing one. Could it be done?
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Has anyone tried the new Zeiss 25/28mm finder? My 24mm VF is in pretty rough shape
and I was thinking of replacing it. I want something solid, with good glass. I wish Leica
made a 24mm finder like the metal ones from the 60's.
Ok, enough procrastinating, I've got to get back to work. Thanks in advance for any insight
any of you might have.
Liam
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I'm a big fan of Larry's work. Hopefully I can make it over to Toronto before the show
closes. Thanks for the tip.
Liam
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Check this out:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0974644889/qid=1116952761/sr=...
Originally posted on the SportsShooter site.
Cheers, Liam
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Stephan, I consider myself a sensible person. I'm also a curious person. Forgive me if my
"deliberately idiotic" behaviour has offended you. What's really offensive is the existence of
sites that promote hate. I wasn't born yesterday - I know this stuff exists; I just don't want
to click on a link posted at photo.net and have it up in my face.
New to R, a happy shopping story!!
in Leica and Rangefinders
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