leonardo_cohen

I am intrigued: The last picture in all of my folders always have at

least 3 or 4 times more views than the other pictures.

Any explanations for this misterious phenomenon?

Thanks All!

Leo

And the even older pre-AI lenses (the original lenses released by Nikon with the F mount in 1959, all the way until 1977 when AI was introduced) SHOULD NOT be mounted on current AF cameras such as the F80 with the risks of damaging the meter coupling. So be careful.

But any AF lens will do just fine, as well as any MF lens produced after 1977.

(You can also go for so called "AI'd" lenses, which are older lenses, pre-1977, which have been converted to AI mount)

Hello

You have definitely overpaid for this lens! It should not be worth more than $150. I would return it and find a cheaper one somewhere else such as ebay. The 28mm/2.8 is a very sharp lens indeed, but the AIs is sharper!

It is true that the AIs version of this lens is optically different from the AI version, being an upgraded version with CRC and closer focusing. Quality-wise, the AIs should also bring better and sharper results. I would buy the AIs version of this lens, if possible.

Other than this optical difference, characteristic to the 28mm/2.8, there are some mechanical differences between all the AI and AIs lenses regarding how the aperture lever is mechanically connected to the aperture blades. To keep it short, AIs lenses were optmised for the Nikon FA and F2000 in order to make sure that these cameras can "find" the right aperture when working in S or P modes. With AI lenses, these cameras might be trying to stop down the lenses at f5.6, but end up with f8, and the wrong exposure. So generally AIs lenses are only preferred if you are using an FA or F2000 camera. Otherwise, an AI is usually cheaper.

Regards

Leo

If you want small, light, effective and easy to use, go for the SB-23. Doesn't get any more compact than that. But you only get TTL and full-power manual falsh modes.

If you want all the frills of a bounce+zoom head, TTL, auto, and several manual modes, go for the SB-20. In my opinion the best compromise on function/size nikon ever made (all the others are either too large and heavy, or have too few functions). I had a SB-24 which was simply huge, and ended up never using it at all due to its size!

Both can be bought for around $50 in good, used condition.

I have the 35-105 as well, which is perfectly fine.

I don't know if something was knocked out of place internally, cosmetically the lens looks fine.

What annoys me the most is that far away subjects have to be focused at the 3m mark! And of course, I can't use the lens' minimum focusing distance anymore at 28mm, only at 85mm.

I am worried that if something IS out of place, even though the image might look sharp after refocused, it actually has more distortion that originally intended (since the formula for good glass, especially zooms, is a perfect balance of all the imperfection amongst the different elements...)

Thanks all!

Leo

Hello All, Happy New Year.

I recently bought a Nikkor AIS 28-85mm lens, and something really

strange happens when zooming the lens: the focus shifts, and after

zooming, I have to refocus the lens.

Is this common with this lens? I never had an equivalent problem with

any Nikkor zoom before. What could be wrong with it?

Mind you, the focus shift is quite aggressive. I checked against

other lenses, and at the 85mm setting, the zoom's focus mark is where

it should be (for example, 3m for a subject 3m away). But after

zooming to 28mm, I have to refocus the lens to 1.2m! Same happens to

far away buildings, for instance, which focus at the infinity mark at

85mm, but at the 3m mark at 28mm...

Thanks!!

Leo

ps: and no, I did not move after zooming!!! Nor did the subject!!