kevin_allen

I own both of these lenses, and I can tell you from experience in the real world (not reading something on the Internet) that the POS lens that comes in the kit is not equal to the 17-40L.

I've also compared the 17-40L with the 17-35/2.8L, and there's not much difference in the real world. Both "hotspot" very mildly wide open at 35mm, and look great at all other settings. The 17-40L produces almost perfect circles of out of focus highlights, while the 17-35L's circles have corners. I haven't checked the flare resistance, but I don't usually point the camera at the sun, either. The edge sharpness goes very slightly in favor of the 17-35L at f/4, but practically identical at all other apertures. The POS kit lens is dark and blurry at edge wide open, and noticeably even at f/5.6 (wide end) and f/8 (tight end). Is it horrible/ unacceptable? Depends on your needs. If you're just shooting family snapshots to email to non-photographers, it's a great lens; if you're making enlargements to display/ sell, not so great.

So, the POS kit lens does have its place, and I will continue to use it for certain purposes, but the fact remains - it's still a POS kit lens...

Kevin Allen

I have the 28-70 2.8L now (I'm the one who got the film mixed up/ half blind in the link above), and it's great. Does exactly what you ask of it, super-sharp, great bokeh, just BIG. IS would be nice, but not a problem without it. Build quality is much better than the 28-135 I had, and at least as good as the Tokina I tried out. I've never even seen a 24-70 2.8L other than on the Internet, so I can't tell you for sure, but I'd assume that it's the same lens plus 4mm on the wide end... So if you need that and have the money, go for it.

Gareth - I'm not stupid. The lenses were compared on the same roll, under the same conditions at the the same camera settings. Both of the Tokina lenses I tried out SUCKED BIG TIME. I really wanted the 280ATX to be an excellent lens, but it had other ideas.

Kevin Allen

I have a couple of EOS 5 bodies and 540EZ flash units. I just got a lightstand and umbrella and want to use the 540EZ in manual mode to light some portraits, etc. I got a 10 ft pc cord and a pc to hotshoe adapter (which has a short cord attached) to connect the camera to the flash. I connected everything and started shooting to get a good exposure starting point to calculate from (no flash meter). I shot 7 times successfully, then the flash stopped firing. I disconnected the 10 ft cord, plugged into the hotshoe adapter, and it worked again. Took the camera, cord/connector and flash back to the store (SE Camera in Raleigh, NC - knowledgable people, not cashiers) to get them to check it out. The cord fired every time when shorted or connected to different cameras; still didn't work with mine. So, we hooked it up hotshoe to pc to hotshoe, and it worked again with the EOS 5. Left the store, back at home -- doesn't work. Removed the 10 ft cord again (a different one, by the way), and it works.

<p>

Any ideas why this is happening?

thanks for the answers, guys. It's been awhile since this was

posted, but I figured I'd update since Evrim recently came across

it. I sent the lens back, and was going to exchange it. However, I

came across a used Tokina 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 at Southeastern Camera in

Raleigh (close to where I live) NC. I tried out the lens and

compared it to a used Canon 28-105 they had in the store -- shot some

of my girlfriend at the time (wife now) outside the store in the

shade, handheld at f/8. Well, the slides showed the same problem

that I had with the 28-80 f/2.8 -- the whole frame was very soft,

almost like it had a diffusion filter over it, but not as sharp as

with a diffusion filter. The 28-105 images were normal (sharp). So,

I decided to tell B&H to keep the lens and refund my money.

<p>

Later, I tried out a 28-135 IS, and decided to go with that. Did

some test shots to determine sharpness, vignetting, bokeh, etc. and

found out it's got less barrel distortion at 50mm than my Canon 50mm

f/1.4 Got to stop down a little more to get sharpness all the way

across, especially above 70mm, but most of the stuff I do doesn't

require me to get that anal. I've shot a couple of weddings with it,

along with lots of portraits and family get-togethers (mine), and the

results are great. Equal to those of the 28-80 L that I rented a

while back. I've even shot some street scenes with Provia 400 and

fill flash at 1/2 sec hand-held @ 35mm, with background unblurred

enough to read small letters on storefronts down the street. Pretty

sweet. Barely vignettes with Heliopan KR3 and polarizer (both

slim). Pretty solid, but not that heavy. Lens hood rotates more

easily than I would like, but I just check it often to make up for

it. Overall, great zoom lens and you can get 2 for the price of a 28-

70 L. But if you're going for best possible reproduction and

planning to enlarge to > 8X10, stop being lazy and get out the prime

lenses.

<p>

Later,

<p>

kma

I'm looking for information on when, what and where flowers will be

blooming. I know times are different from here just east of Raleigh,

but I'm not an expert yet. I remember that the rhododendrons were

blooming last year when I was there, but I'm not sure when that

was. Any suggestions on related websites are welcome, too. I will be

visiting the Highlands area a few times in the next couple of months,

mainly focusing on water (falls and rivers). I would also appreciate

recommendations on events that might be interesting during this time

(for personal enjoyment as well as photography).

Thanks,

Kevin

I have been using Canon EOS 28, 50, and 85 mm f/1.8 lenses, along with a 100-300 USM. I decided to try out the Tokina lens due to many positive reviews on the web, and a desire to have a zoom of this type for half the price of the Canon equivalent. I am extremely disappointed with the image quality (sharpness) of this lens. It doesn't even approach the quality of any of the primes, when the primes are wide open, and the zoom is around f/8 (even in the center). Even my Olympus Stylus Epic outperforms the zoom at 35mm. There were also some exposure variations from prime lens to zoom lens, when exposure was set the same on the camera.

<p>

If you have PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH THIS PARTICULAR LENS, do you think I should a) return it, get the Canon and never look back, b) exchange it for another Tokina, because it MUST be a faulty sample of an overall great population.

<p>

If you think the lens is great, what are you comparing to, what are your standards, and what are you using the lens for?

<p>

Thank you for your time,

<p>

Kevin

I use the BP-50 and have been using Duracell Ultra AA batteries. I

usually get no more than 10 rolls of film through without completely

draining the batteries. I had the same problem with the 2CR5. I

have used the built-in flash maybe 3 times in the past 6 months. I

use the 28, 50 and 85mm f/1.8 lenses. I mostly focus manually, and

I'm not making 1 hour exposures on a regular basis (although I did

use up a set of batteries one night in a few hours of 10 minute to 45

minute exposures -- but it was also pretty cold). I usually leave

the camera turned on in Manual mode, but have tried turning it off

when not in use, and it made no difference.

<p>

Do I worry about battery life? No.

And that sentence that started with "Most of the time..." applies to

when I'm not shooting closeups. Hope I've thoroughly confused you.

<p>

Boy, am I tired. I think I'll go to bed.

<p>

KMA

Jerry,

<p>

Sorry about that first paragraph. I neglected to look back at your

original question in order to remind myself that you're already using

the manual DOF button.

<p>

I guess the answer to your original question is, "Use the DOF preview

button on the back of the camera to both check DOF and to lock

exposure." Let me know if your camera doesn't do this.

<p>

Of course, a downside to this is that you (probably) need to release

the DOF button before making the exposure, and you will only have 4

seconds to make that exposure before you lose E Lock. This could be

a disappointment when trying to catch a spider catching a meal (as I

was doing this morning), or waiting for moving flowers to stop

moving, etc. I don't know what subjects you're shooting, or how

close you are getting, so I don't know if this will be a problem.

<p>

The other downside is that if you lock exposure while checking DOF,

then recompose your shot, your DOF check is probably no longer valid.

<p>

This is all too complicated for me, and that's why I set the exposure

manually (and use a tripod, except when using flash or shooting

extreme closeups with large apertures in direct morning/evening

sunlight with fast shutter speeds, which can be pretty interesting).

<p>

Well, I'm rambling again.

<p>

KMA

Gerald,

<p>

I set Custom Function 4 to put depth-of-field preview on the "*.CF"

button, on the back of the camera (set it to "2"). Then I contort my

arms and hands and head in order to press the DOF button while

adjusting the focus and aperture. This works fine for me. Some may

say it's too difficult, but you have to work with the tools available.

<p>

If you still want to use exposure lock, the same button you use for

DOF should lock it for you. I just tried it on mine in Av mode, and

it worked.

<p>

Of course, as I stated earlier, I always use manual exposure mode for

closeups anyway (even if the light is changing). It just seems more

natural to me. Most of the time, I leave the auto focus on, and set

autofocus on the back and exposure lock on the front, use manual

mode, and focus manually (I have a couple of old FD cameras and have

gotten used to it). In low light, I usually hit the AF button.

<p>

Well, I'm rambling, so I'd better shut up now.

<p>

As always, listen to the advice, try it for yourself, and then do

what feels right to you.

<p>

KMA

Gerald,

<p>

I use the Elan IIE and 50mm f/1.8, 85mm f/1.8 lenses with extension

tubes when doing these kinds of close-ups.

What I do is set the lens on manual (always), the meter for "partial

metering" and set the camera exposure control on manual mode. Then I

use either a gray card or my hand (+ 1.0 EC) to set the appropriate

exposure. If the lighting is difficult to judge and the shot is

important, I bracket at least +/- 0.5 (slide film).

<p>

If I'm using flash (380EX with off-camera cord and Lumiquest Pocket

Bounce), then I set Manual exposure for the background, and try to

get the selected partial metering point on the flower. Then I use

FEC to bracket what I think will give me a well-balanced shot (or for

whatever I'm trying to accomplish).

<p>

Anyway, that's my method; you may figure out a better way. The key

is to try everything and use what works.

<p>

Good luck,

<p>

Kevin M. Allen