stephen_steiner

<p><b><i>I believe the $299 upgrade is only for the OEM version of Elements that comes bundled with some hardware. You can't just buy a $79 piece of software and upgrade it for $299 to a $649 piece of software. Adobe is not dumb.</i></b></p>

 

Well, I have a store-bought copy of PE3 and have twice been offered the $299 upgrade.

I agree with Beau. You might be better off to buy PE3 and then immediately upgrade to PSCS. Amazon is selling PSE3 for $67.89 after the $20 rebate and Adobe is offering an upgrade from PSE to PSCS for $299, direct from Adobe. I think this offer expires on February 15th.

Hi Lisa,

 

Perhaps you should also post your question in the excellent Adobe PSE forum: http://www.adobe.com/support/forums/main.html

 

Stephen

Thanks for the interesting and informative read. The Arca-Swiss B-1 has always been the "gold standard" against which others have always been measured. However, the reviews and comments that I have read with respect to the RRS BH-55 have been overwhelmingly positive, with most calling it the best they have ever used. Here is once such review: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/rrs-bh55.shtml

 

Sky

The "big three" are the Arca-Swiss B1, the Acratech Ultimate and the Kirk BH-1, with the Acratech being the least expensive. However, with the Gitzo G2220 I would seriously look at the Gitzo G1275M Off-center Ball Head, which will enhance and complement the versatility of this tripod and will be the most cost effective solution.

 

Purchase the G1275M rather than the G1276M (which incorporates the Gitzo quick release system) and then buy A-S type QR clamps and plates from RRS.

Single flash bracket: Kirk Macro Flash Bracket http://www.kirkphoto.com/brackets.html#fb8 IMO, the best single flash macro bracket.

 

Dual flash bracket: Bogen/Manfrotto #3278 Macro Flash Bracket - excellent and inexpensive.

<p><i>IMHO, the 343e is one of the best values out there for price/stability/portability. Very hard to beat.</i></p>

 

<p>Except the Slik Sprint Pro beats it in every way. It's taller, features individual leg-spread, has a two-part center column (removing the longer section permits almost ground level shooting), the center column reverses, the ball head is better, it weighs the same and its more stable.</p>

 

<p>I also prefer the Manfrotto 724B, which although slightly heavier and a bit longer when folded down, is much taller and much more solid.</p>

Having owned MANY bags over the past 30 years, I think that, overall, Lowepro bags are the best designed and best built bags. I have not owned a Crumpler, but did try a couple that my friend had. They are well constructed and designed to look as though you are not carrying photographic equipment. However, the Crumpler did not compare favorably with a Lowepro in terms of build quality or functionality.

For DSLR you will only need a polorizor and ND filters.

Having traveled extensively, I would feel safer ANYPLACE in the United States versus just about anyplace in Europe and the last time I checked, Hawaii is part of the US.

The A-S B1 and the Acratech would certainly be solid choices for a ball Head. However, if you are not in a hurry, the soon to be released BH-55 head from RRS might be a contender and should be considered. http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/bh55/index.html

Forget about the manufacturers "weight rating". I have owned and used both tripods extensively and the Slik, in addition to it's other advantages, is definiely more solid and stable than the Velbon.

 

Another option in this class would be the Manfrotto 724B. Although it doesn't have retractable spiked feet or individual leg spread and is a little heavier than the Slik, it is slightly taller and is more stable.

<p><i>As always, I recommend the Velbon Maxi 343E</i></p>

 

<p>I used to own the Velbon, but sold it when I bought the Slik Sprint Pro. The Slik has individual-leg spread, gets down to ground level (when the larger section of the two-part center column is removed), the center column can be reversed, the ball head is a little better and it's taller, lighter and more stable than the Velbon.</p>

I certainly don't think the G11xx is sufficient, but the G12xx would be. However, should you acquire the 300/2.8 w/converter, the G13xx would be the way to go. As another poster mentioned, the Explorer tripods are really terrific. I have the aluminum G2220 with the G1276M head and love it, especially for macro applications.

I would consider the Canon PowerShot Pro 1. From the vibes I've heard and the first images I've seen, Canon seems to have implemented the 8 MP sensor better than Nikon, Minolta or Olympus.

Yes, I think you should check yourself into the nearest loony bin... Just kidding.

 

IMO, the 3021 will work just fine for now and the Acratech is certainly not overkill and should, in all probability, be the last ball head you will own. However, you seem to indicate that you will be moving to heavier gear in the future. In that case, I would recommend that you take a deep breath and buy your second tripod now.

And (you knew this was coming), this would be a Gitzo CF - either a 12xx or 13xx, preferably the latter. Just think, if you bought the Gitzo now you would never have to put yourself through the tripod purchasing dilemma ever again and would probably even get an early release from the aforementioned loony bin!

<p><i>My question then is do I set the flash for one less than the ambient light, lets say at 5.6 if the ambient is indeed F8 or do I set the flash at one less than the meter reading of the subjects faces?</i></p>

 

<p>Although either method will work, metering the ambient light will usually produce more consistent and accurate results. In addition, you can achieve the same effect by changing the flash ISO, instead of the flash auto aperture.</p>

 

<p>Also, fill flash does not usually "blow out the background", but rather tends to darken it. In this case, try using your camera's "slow sync" function, which will hold the ambient exposure.<p>

<p><i>These guys above are nuts. You have a tiny little rangefinder with a couple of tiny little rangefinder lenses and they think you should be using a carbon fiber $400.00 tripod designed to hold a 4X5 veiw camera off the ground. Look at the Velbon 343E...</i></p>

 

<p>I totally agree with your assesment, but not with your choice of tripod. I would recommend the Slik Sprint Pro over the Velbon. It is more stable, taller, lighter, folds down shorter and has a slighly better head. In addition, it features individual leg-spread, gets down very low (by removing the longer section of the two-part center column), the center column reverses and did I mention that it is more stable?</p>

 

<p>I use Gitzo for heavier gear, but when hiking/backpacking with a small digicam, the Slik is the one I carry.</p>

I don't think B/M are "pricey"; in fact, they offer tremendous bang-for-the-buck. By "I don't use it that much that I can justify a high price tag", do you mean "on the few occasions that a support is required, I'm willing to settle for blurry pictures by using a cheap, unstable tripod"?

I don't understand your tripod progression. I assume that the 3021 came first and you moved to the G1126 because it is considerably lighter. However, the 3021 is taller than the G1126 and is probably more stable. Now that you have the Canon 100-400mm lens you are considering the G1127? This tripod is in the same series as the G1126. It is taller than the G1126 and a few ounces lighter, but is no more stable than the G1126. IMO, the tripod you should have bought after the 3021 was the G1228, which is several ounces heavier but much more solid than the G1127 (or the 3021). I would get the G1228 with an Acratech head. I can't speak to the 441 because I have never used B/M CF tripods, but if I had the budget, I would go for Gitzo CF every time.

<p>From the Bogen/Manfrotto web site (the obvious first place to look):</p>

 

<p>Parts</p>

<p>To help us determine the correct part for YOUR Bogen distributed equipment (Manfrotto, Gitzo, Metz, Gossen, Elinchrom, Lastolite, Reflector, Rotatrim, Carl, IFF, Bogen Copy & Camera Stands), please call the parts department at (201) 818-9500 Ext-244, or email parts@bogenimaging.com We'll help you find the correct spare or replacement part(s), take your order, and start it on its way.</p>

Just curious - When Leica finally introduces the Digital M, with say a 10MP sensor, will the majority of Leica shooters stay with film or switch to digital? Hans, you don't have to answer, as you have already stated elswhere that if film were discontinued you would kill yourself...

<p><i>"Get the Leica filter. Of course it is the best."</i></p>

 

<p>Hans,</p>

 

<p>I have noticed that when responding to any legitimate questions pertaining to Leica vs. any other brand, you invariably, without any back-up or substantiation, make blanket statements and generalizations concerning the superiority of Leica, such as this.</p>

 

<p>With respect to filters, I have, over the past thirty years, used just about every brand of filter and consider B+W filters unmatched in terms of optical and build quality (followed closely by Heliopan). And, as a previous poster mentioned, it is also my understanding that Leica does, in fact, buy its filters from B+W.</p>

Most people using small Canon digicams find that RAW conversion using Breezebrowser gives the best results.

 

The noise (not "grain") produced by the small-sensored S50 is no worse than that produced by any other such camera. In fact, because Canon is conservative with their ISO ratings (50 ISO is actually equivelent to an ISO of 100 on most other small digicams), the noise produced by this camera at low ISO is actually quite acceptable, especially compared with other like cameras. No, you would not want to shoot above ISO 100 on a regular basis with these cameras but, then again, that's why we have Neat Image and Noise Ninja, right?

Your tripod, the Gitzo G2220, is a great tripod for macro work. I would suggest a ball head, such as an Arca-Swiss, Acratech or Kirk. I also think the Gitzo G1276M Off-Set ball head is wonderful for macro and would complement this tripod.

 

I think a macro focusing rail is invaluable and, although there are several good ones available (including Novoflex and RRS), the one I like the best is the Bogen 3419.

 

IMO, the best single-flash macro bracket is the Kirk Macro Flash Bracket and the best two-flash rig is the Bogen 3278 Macro Flash Bracket. Novoflex also makes a dynamite, modular multi-flash bracket, but it is heavier and somewhat slower to set-up - a consideration for hand-held macro work, such as insect macrophotography.