happy_home1

<p>Here I am in exactly the same boat, and now find that the ftp site is password protected. Any help there please ? Maybe one of you gents saved the file and could send it to me directly ?</p>

<p>t1 at kent dash home dot net</p>

I understand that the Epson R800 is considered one of the better photo

printers, and the 2200 model is for larger prints. I have heard that

there is a new "500 something" Epson printer that would be a follow-on

to these two current printers, that would combine the best attributes

of both, and is expected to hit our shores "sometime in the spring".

Might folks here enlighten me?

Well, what is the objective? A book on pregnancy? Photos to please the hypercritical on photo.net? A record of a fleeting, beautiful physical state that can only once be the first time? If the latter -- so much depends on her attitude (and you said nothing about the father -- ordinarily they have an opinion).

If for a record, the "full monty" is the right answer. Most women I've encountered, even previously prudish, are excited about being pregnant the first time (then again, there was the one who said I should never speak to her again when I compared her favorably to Demi Moore's cover shot). Any way, the nipples change, there is the linea nigra (a vertical stripe) that forms on the abdomen, the breasts are larger and the areola is more prominent. The hair tends to be fuller and lustrous. The skin looks better. Why cover any of that? Well, what is your purpose?

I scanned a 6x7 slide (4000dpi -- 500MB) of a friend in a formal

garden with her groom. The film had accurately captured the gray sky

that day. I purchased Photoshop CS -- read a book -- watched a

detailed tutorial -- created a layer -- isolated the sky; cannot for

the life of me change the sky's color. I understand from the tutorial

there are generally multiple ways to skin a cat in Photoshop; but none

I've tried so far work on the gray sky. Help, please?

I've searched to no avail. Might someone specify for me the bulb type

and base for the 150W Quartz-Halogen model light that is used with the

Speedotron M11 head? Thank you.

I purchased a bunch of Fuji FP-100c45 film on the cheap, and thought I

could use it with a Polaroid 550 pack film holder. Did I think wrong?

The first pack I tried to run through ended up pulling out multiple

sheets at a time. The second pack, the cover came out without pulling

out the white tab, so I wasted the first image taking the holder apart

to thread the white tab through the rollers. The second sheet, when I

exposed and developed it, had roller-looking stripe across the middle

third of the image area. I'm at a loss.

Is it just me? I haven't been able to get on lfphoto.info all week.

Did they "go out of business"?

I've read much of the beginner info here and elsewhere, also ordered

and read a couple of the recommended books. The following questions

are specific to the Tachihara, or other similar wood field cameras.

I took my first shots today with my circa 1991 Hope-Tachihara 4x5

cherry wood field camera: house morning and evening, and inside with a

flash (though I think I forgot to take into account the exposure

factor for the bellows extension). I'm using EK E100VS film.

1) Is there an owner's manual for the camera? I read here that many

LF cameras don't come with one, I am asking here to see if there is

something definitive. If there is one, where might I find a copy?

2) How does one care for the wood surfaces? How does one remove the

nose prints from the glass back (is Windex O.K.)?

3) In "what camera to choose" here, I saw Phil's comments that wood

cameras were just not steady enough for him. I see that. With all

the wheel nuts tightened, there is still noticeable play in the front

and rear standards. The source of play in the front standard is in

the traverse track itself. I suppose it's a matter of course to make

all the adjustments, load the film back, and let the camera settle

before pushing the cable release? (and hope the wind is not blowing

too hard)

4) I was told the camera was bought new in 1991, and is serial number

such. I don't see a marking anywhere on the camera beside the small

blue name plate.

5) I saw the thread about aftermarket screens for 4x5 cameras. The

screen on my camera says "Wista". Is that how the camera came, or was

that necessarily a later addition?

Thank you.

Regards,

Social policy in Europe is strongly in favor of "somebody should take care of me". For example, in France, 1 in 5 of the working population is employed by the Government. Government is expensive, and big government . . . you get the picture. All that government is paid for in big taxes (heard of VAT? -- and income taxes -- relatively large). Take home pay is relatively less, but with so much "take care of me" available, more of the take home pay is disposable . . . to spend on items that have high taxes imposed.

In recognition of this, most european countries will sell expensive items to tourists less the VAT, so (this was about a camera, right?) your Tachihara might not be as expensive as you think.

1) Where to get 4x5 sheet negative processing done in northern VA -

D.C. area? Capitol Color is great -- they do exclusively E-6.

2) 4x5 sheet slide film is still sold in quantity -- and folks are

clearly not using it for slide shows. . .

What do photographers do with all that 4x5 reversal film y'all are

shooting?

By the way, I just purchased a Tachihara is why I'm asking.<div></div>

Ray,

You say you send yours back for repair -- I am down in Virginia -- I am curious where one gets these repaired?

My apologies, the bellows has its own PC socket. I now realize, I do not have the unique PC cord required for the Bronica G-1 flash.

So, I would still like help with the manual facsimile.

Recommendation on how to obtain the correct G-1 PC cord?

I have just purchased a G bellows for my GS-1. The camera will not

fire the flash from the speedgrip hot shoe, and the clearance is too

tight to mount a PC cord. I did look at other posts on flash

misfires, and wonder if the contacts mentioned there would apply here?

Also, I did not receive a manual with the bellows. Any help out there

(perhaps I could borrow -- paying all to/fro shipping by secure means

of course, or pay a nominal charge for someone willing to go to the

trouble to scan their manual -- as I have done for others)?

O.K., I understand a "normal" lens, with shorter focal lengths

providing larger area, and longer focal lengths magnify -- less light

-- smaller field of view. Now, for the Bronica GS-1, how does one

treat the G-18 and 36? In other words, when would I reach for it, and

mentally calculate the respective effects?