patrick_tiffany

Hi Marc,

 

OK - went to my buddy's house today and saw the Phanfare integration in action. Essentially, it shows the pictures via the Phanfare app on your phone using AirPlay (either via the Mirroring feature - or direct; with the former, you'll see the banners from your iPhone on your TV screen - and with the latter, you don't). Slick as heck! Even ports the music from your slideshow! I've got an iPhone 5 on the way this week. Definitely picking up an Apple TV, as well! :D

HI Marc, Actually, Phanfare tech support said it's definitely doable - and a friend who has both Apple TV and uses Phanfare for his client galleries just confirmed. I'm not sure of the specific details, as I don't have Apple TV, but he's going to give me a demo the next time I'm over at his place.

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<p>I use Phanfare for posting my images online - and one of its great features is the ability to post pictures to a non-public gallery that anybody can actually view - they just need the web address. I wonder if you could pass that web address to Apple TV and have it work. That would be awesome! I'll ask the tech support gurus at Phanfare for their thoughts. Thanks for your help, Marc!</p>

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<p>Hey Ivor - Just sent you a PM. Have something that might interest you. :D</p>

Love this idea! :D Question for you, as

I'm a bit ignorant when it comes to this

subject. Can the photos also be served

up from an online gallery, instead of a

folder on the local computer? That

would be ideal for my situation.

Thanks!

Jin! You rock! :D Thank you so much

for whatever you did - works perfectly

now. Appreciate your time and effort!

Thanks everyone. If nothing else, there is some measure of comfort in knowing I haven't completely lost it. :D And PS -

I'm able to sign in just fine on my iPhone if I go to the full site and sign in. In fact, that's what I've done to contribute this

reply. Hope we get a solution to this, as it's obviously affecting the experience of many.

<p>I'm consistently unable to sign in on Photo.net mobile on my iPhone. I can sign in here just fine - and I've been deliberate in making sure I'm making no errors in typing my email address or password when using the mobile app. I've also tried deleting all of my cookies and history in Safari on my iPhone. No luck. Every time I try to sign in, the mobile app just takes me back to the page I was on - with the "Sign In" button still showing at the top. I'm still unable to contribute anything to the site after signing in, so I know I'm not successful.<br>

Any suggestions? Thanks!</p>

Hi Tyler,

 

Might want to try <A HREF="http://www.shutterfly.com"><b>Shutterfly</b></A> or <A HREF="http://www.kodakgallery.com"><b>Kodak Gallery</b></A>. Both offer some nice calendar options. Kodak's website says you can order as late as noon PST 12/22 and it'll be delivered on Christmas Eve. Perfect for the procrastinator in all of us. :)

 

Happy Holidays.

 

Patrick

Hi Judith,

 

Agree with the previous posters - it's a very nice portrait that captures his character well.

 

You didn't mention how you metered the shot. Given the fact that you're using fill flash to assist, you might try metering off the brighter area on his left side (which will tone down the overexposure there) and allow the fill flash to brighten up the darker areas on his right side.

 

One thing I might suggest is to use the power of your camera's histogram to provide you with immediate feedback on your attempts. This will allow you to identify areas that were overexposed right after you've taken the shot. You can then make the necessary adjustments, try again, and see your results of your efforts. One of the beauties of digital. :)

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Patrick

Outstanding! I'm delighted to have been of help.

 

Have a great holiday weekend.

 

Patrick

My bad - should have asked what version you were using. :) In CS2:

 

1. Open image.

 

2. Create a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer. Click Colorize box and tone to sepia to your preferences (example: Hue, 30%; Saturation, 20%; Lightness 5%).

 

3. Make sure the "Hue/Saturation" adjustment layer is selected in the Layers palette. Use eraser tool with appropriate size brush(es) to paint back color selectively.

 

4. Optional: When finished painting back color, Layer/Flatten Image.

 

Let me know if that works for you.

 

Patrick

In CS3:

 

1. Open image.

 

2. Layer/Duplicate Layer...

 

3. Make sure "Background Copy" layer (or whatever you chose to name it, if you did so) is selected in Layers palette. Image/Adjustments/Black & White...

 

4. Adjust to suit your individual Sepia preference. Example - Colors: Reds, 40%; Yellows, 60%; Greens, 40%; Cyans, 60%; Blues, 20%; Magentas, 80%. Click Tint box. Hue, 42%; Saturation, 20%. Click OK when done.

 

5. Make sure "Background Copy" is still selected. Use eraser tool with appropriate size brush(es) to paint back color selectively.

 

6. Optional: When finished painting back color, Layer/Flatten Image.

 

Example below. Hope this helps!

 

Patrick<div></div>

Agree with Jacob that it is likely a digital camera. If this is the case, some of his night shots might involve High Dynamic Range photography, although the lighting could certainly be accomplished with a variety of supplemental slave light sources, as well.

 

For an example of HDR, see here:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Tower_Bridge_Sacramento_edit.jpg

Hi Aaron,

 

Not sure if you saw Kerry Thalmann's in-depth review of the Toho FC-45X, but he does discuss some of the wide angle issues you mention, as well as the camera's overall build quality. Might be a worthwhile read if you've not seen it yet.

 

http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/toho.htm

Thanks very much, Steve. :) I believe the umbrella we used was the 36" Photek Softliter II.

Another image from the same shoot.<div></div>

Thanks again to everyone who has been posting images to this thread - I really appreciate it.

 

A friend and I were practicing some studio shots this past weekend and had opportunity to use an umbrella with one of our 550s. This shot was taken using a reflective umbrella with diffusing panel just to the left of the model. A 36" round reflector to the model's right was used for fill. While still not quite "there," the shots we were able to obtain yesterday are much improved over our first attempts.

 

Thanks for looking - and please keep the contributions coming! :)<div></div>

Very even lighting - nicely done. Any kind of diffuser on the 550 for this shot at all? And was it pointing directly at Nikki, or was it angled toward the ceiling at some degree? If this is straight on, no diffuser, at ISO 400 - and in an essentially blackened room - this is really an impressive example of the benefits of stopping down the flash. I really have to give this a try - wow. Maybe this is the simple cause for so many harsh exposures I've noticed with many of my flash pictures.

 

Great examples and explanation, Stephen - thanks so much for your contributions! :)