petersh

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<p>I haven't taken any photos of lightning bugs but I have observed one interesting phenonenon...they only light when they are going up! I have no idea why.</p>

<p>NIcoleta,<br>

Almost all of your photos have full white and Black. In fact some of them blow out the highlights while losing the shadows. I think you are comparing shots taken in very contrasty difficult situations to a shot taken in a studio under a fully controlled environment. Skin tone is alway difficult and few if any have the ability do get good shots under a contrasty sun without using modifiers. If you're not seeing blacks or whites in your shots, I agree with Paul, it may be your monitor.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>A.- Thanks. Actually I'm in New Jersey but I go up to Maine at least once a year, have been for 40 years. The issue is that the 1204 breaker pops not the circuit. My thought was that if it was pulling too much juice for the circuit the breaker would pop but it doesn't. And then there are the spontaneous flashes that occur when I reset the one on PS.</p>

<p>Thanks folks. I ran it on a 20 amp circuit that I know is clean and it still did this.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>Sorry Jerry,<br>

You're right if you use recent ratings rather than ratings. Wonder what happened this week?</p>

<p>Jerry,<br>

Are you sure you looked at average ratings and not # of views? This phenomenon has been documented several times in the past.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Tried it both ways, regular and slow recycle. Yes had it plugged into the Kitchen circuit. I would think if it was too much of a drain on the circuitry that the line fuse would blow, not the power pack. Is that a wrong assumption?</p>

<p>I just tried a blackline 1204. It hasn't been used in a while so I plugged it in, let it "charge" for 20 minutes then tried to fire off some shots. The flash would spontaneously fire once every one to three seconds and periodically the fuse would pop. I've been told that the problem lies in my wiring. I use 2 WL 1600's and don't have a problem. What do you think?<br>

Thanks, Peter</p>

<p>William,<br>

I just got the Kirk BH1 and am thrilled. I was using an older Manfrotto head and wasn't happy. While I've not tried the others for any period of time I can say that the Kirk is smooth as butter. Weight may be an issue to some but I rarely wander far from transportation (knee problems).<br>

I essence...well worth the investment.</p>

I ultimately found the reason for the problem.

It lies in Bridge. When you set Bridge to "open jpeg in raw" the program applies correction to the file. When turned off the problem disappears.

By the way the same thin happens when I save a tiff file as a jpeg.

First, thanks for the responses.

 

Yes I am opening as a PSD and saving as a JPEG. It is on the same computer. I can immediately see the result in bridge, as well as view the difference in other viewers.

 

Hope this helps.

I need some help. Whenever I convert a psd file to jpg it comes out more than a stop brighter than the original.

I probably changed a setting inadvertently but for the life of me I don't know how to fix it. Thanks for any help.

For the sake of accuracy, the tin man was Jack Haley.

Well, you've learned the contract issue.

 

I would send them lo-res files with either a copyright watermark or "Pre-Payment Proof" on jpg's. That way they

can't argue that they didn't get a record of the event. They're just unusable for display or distribution. You

own the photos. If they want prints they have to pay.