rich_wardwell

Too many hernia repair lawsuits...

First, I'm not a lawyer and in no way represent myself as one (or an expert on this subject).

By all means, you should contact a lawyer.

 

That stated, all public performances of music require a payment to the performing rights

owner(s). In the U.S., these rights are managed be three organizations -- BMI, ASCAP or

SESAC -- representing U.S. artists. Unfortunately, recently, a new licensing was created

specifically for digital transmission over the Internet. Therefore, if you want to play

copyrighted music over the Internet, you have to use SoundExchange for that right (think

record labels / mechanical right I believe) -- IN ADDITION (I believe) -- you still have to

pay for the broadcast / performing rights to BMI, ASCAP and SESAC. This website gives a

summary: http://ogc.arizona.edu/white_paper_lpe_webcast_music_licensing.htm

 

It isn't pretty is it?

 

Can you create some of your own music? :)

 

Few other comments...

 

The majority of the world may still be on a 56kbps connection, but not by much. First,

U.S. broadband penetration is over 80% of active users (almost 50% overall). European

broadband penetration is lower, but nearing a third on average. Second, I would think that

those who are looking at photos on the Internet are more than likely to be in the "active

users" category. Using the narrowband logic, you shouldn't be putting up photos in the

first place!

 

As far as type of music - nothing sounds worse than MIDI on a web site. I would definitely

use something of decent quality / sampled... this can be done while still retaining a fairly

small file size if done correctly.

 

In my opinion, music in the background can be quite impactful depending on the type of

photography. Music combined with photography can be a very powerful motivator. It can

also distract from the photography if done poorly (or very well). Depends on the effect

you wish to create.

1 x 4GB

2 x 2GB

 

Total -- 8GB

 

Would like to add a 2nd 4GB card for a total of 12GB.

 

These are for a Canon 5D.

Riza -- it's not the camera, it's the lens. Of course it doesn't happen on a 20D, you're

viewing only the center of the lens.

 

The 24-105 already has a reputation from a number of reviews for vignetting on FF cameras.

You could buy a "pro" 1Dmk2 and you still will get vignetting from that lens wide open.

My concern would be the slower lens... For indoor ambient-light work, I find myself

constantly using primes nearly wide-open at ISO 800 and still barely able to get the shots off.

Even 2.8 is a bit too slow for my tastes but do-able. The 4.0 would restrict me from getting

many of the ambient light shots that I currently get.

 

I think I would also agree that the difference between 70mm and 105mm are not that large.

If you need the zoom, I think I would probably keep the 24-70 and add a 135mm or 200mm

prime. Of course, I like primes :).

Quest for the right bag.

The search shall it ever stop?

But it must end now.

(Or my wife will kill me).

 

Ok, so I suck at Haiku. Just getting back into photography again (new child and the excuse to justify

new gear helps). I have read hundreds of threads. They have been helpful and narrowed my search, as

well as my past experiences (generally over the shoulder bags). I feel that I have narrowed my needs

very specifcally - I'm just not sure I'm finding all of the actual physical alternatives to my specifications.

I'm hoping this isn't perceived as a "tell me what I want/need" type of post - I think I have a fairly good

idea of what I want. I'm just not sure I'm finding it in the market - either because of my ignorance or

because it doesn't exist.

 

First, my equipment -- Canon 5D, 24/1.4, 35/1.4, 50/1.4, 85/1.2 (actually, don't own this yet - but

hope too soon :), 200/2.8, and a Apple MacBook Pro 15", along with extra batteries, some cables, a

small pocket inverter (about the size of a laptop batter), a half dozen memory cards, a memory card

reader, a magazine or some papers, pens, etc. Also, I generally carry a Kyocera KR1 (a small router/

switch/WAP that has a PCMCIA card slot for my Sprint card) -- about the size of a large laptop

battery :).

 

Right now, I have a standard (large) laptop bag that can fit the laptop, the misc stuff, the KR1, and with

the assistance of some Domke dividers a 5D body and a lens or two. Unfortunately, it's difficult to

access stuff, the protection provided isn't great, and the shapes of the items (particularly the camera

body) just aren't very compatible with it's original purpose. Not to mention that over the shoulder bags

aren't great with heavier weights - which isn't debilitating at this point but is getting to be fairly

significant. This is especially fun when trekking through an airport and such.

 

I would like to serve three different functions (presumeably with 2 or 3 different bags). First, a

commuter bag for going back and forth to work that would probably house most everything -- I'm

thinking in backpack form due to the weight. I expect this sucker to be fairly big (and heavy). This bag

would also be used on trips to get everything to my destination, be it a car trip to the in-laws or my

fairly frequest trips to London. My priorities on this would be ability to hold everything, comfort and

ergonomic as possible for the weight, and at least a little bit of protection from general thievery. Easy

access is obviously not a high priority for this bag and is contraindicated by some of the other

priorities. What I've considered so far... Crumpler backpacks -- like the internal / back facing zipper,

LowePro CompuTrekker and CompuDayPack, Tamrac Adventure 9, Tenba PB-15C (or 17C). I have

been unable to find any of these to see firsthand within 180 miles of my house.

 

Second, I would like something for around town or short hikes - probably would only carry the 5D and

one lens mounted and maybe two other lenses and and a few personal knick knacks. I like the idea of a

slingpack that has easy access without removing the bag. When traveling, I would keep this in the

luggage and pull it out, populating it from the bag above. Highest priority is accessibility and comfort

(hence light weight and small size being beneficial). Something not screaming photography bag /

tourist would be nice but not required. Here, I've considered the LowePro Slingshot 200AW and the

Tamrac Velocity 7 Slingpack. I do have a dealer that has both of these on the floor and have seen them

briefly. I'm planning on going back shortly with some of my equipment and playing with them more

extensively. I used to have a couple Domke soft bags that I liked, but I think I've just had enough of

shoulder bags for now -- sore shoulders, bags slipping off the shoulder, lack of ability to have free

hands at all times. I've heard of some hybrid bags - waist or hip packs that might be a possibility but

haven't found a candidate.

 

Third, I would like something for slightly longer trail hikes -- from 2-8 hours. Two and three could

possibly be served by the same bag, but I don't want to compromise the quick and easy, light around-

town capability of bag 2.

 

Unfortunately, the only items within a reasonable drive of me that I can see in person are a number of

LowePro options and a few Tamrac / Tenba bags. Not that I require that, but it would make life a lot

easier. The lack of ability to see things in person is making it very difficult to vette possible

alternatives, and the websites don't always have very good presentations of their products. The only

one that I have any local candidates are for bag #2. I've heard positive comments of Mountainsmith

and Kata but can find very little substantial information on current bags that meet the above criteria.

 

So.... do you have any of the bags mentioned above? Do you have any other options for Use Case 1, 2

or 3?

 

Thanks!

Rich

Considering it's not a competitor to Photoshop, but to a product space that really hasn't been

explored, I'm not sure I agree with Giampi. Version 1.1 that was just released looks like a

whole new app. Check out the review at http://arstechnica.com/reviews/apps/

aperture-1.1.ars

 

You might want to check out Adobe Lightroom -- it's in beta and is available for free at this

time. It's supposed to be more of a competitor to Aperture. I haven't tried it myself.

Version 1.1 is looking a LOT better. ArsTechnica, which took some heat for it's review

trashing version 1.0 just came out with a new review of 1.1 and state that pretty much every

critical issue has been resolved. Gave it a 9 out of 10 rating (1.0 got a 3 I believe).

 

Based on the above, I just purchased 1.1. It looks pretty interesting -- I plan on giving it a

try.

I had very good results from the <a href="http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/

External-Enclosures/">Other World Computing</a> enclosures... particularly the <a

href="http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/1394/USB/EliteAL/">OWC Mercury Elite

AL</A> enclosures -- although I believe these are PATA.

 

The selection of SATA external enclosures is much smaller than PATA enclosures at this time

unfortunately.

MLU = Mirror Lock Up... allows you to move the mirror manually prior to exposure time...

reducing blurriness caused by the movement of the mirror flopping up out of the way and

banging to a stop to expose the sensor to image...

Unfortunately, if your budget is $1000-$1200, you will have a hard time owning L glass. My first suggestion is to look at some of the reviews on Photo.net at http://www.photo.net/canon/. For pricing, check out www.bhphotovideo.com. B&H is a reputable retailer and has excellent prices.

I have experienced a problem with my 300D that sounds like what you described. With exposures longer than 2 minutes, a red shading begins to appear in the bottom left corner. At 10 minute exposures (especially at higher ISO's), it can take up to 5-10% of the frame. I'm not convinced that all 300D's experience this, and I've certainly seen 10D long exposure examples that do not experience this problem, so mine is at the Canon service depot at the moment. Assuming this is just an anomaly, my other experiences are that the 300D lacks mirror lockup which the 10D has, possibly making a difference on the long exposures.

Yeah, it definitely appears that the large red-patch in the corner is NOT supposed to be there :) I can start seeing it after just a little bit over a 1 minute exposure.

 

Canon support is off today for the New Years, so tomorrow it is.

 

While it has already been answered by others, but for the person that asked - I particularly used a T-mount for a Canon EOS camera and a Meade T-Adapter which connects to the rear cell of the telescope )and to the T-Mount, and hence the camera). Lots of fun!

 

Thanks for the responses!

Actually, that image is a 720 sec (12 min) exposure. I've noticed that it was much worse out in the 20F temperatures outside. This may have also been related to aperture although I doubt it.

Thanks for the responses.... If it is a "hot patch", it's a big one. I start to notice the patch after about a 1 minute exposure. I've attached a 5 minute exposure with the lens cover on.

 

I think I'll be calling Canon...<div></div>

My brother came to visit this week and brought a very nice Meade

LX200 10", 2500mm reflector telescope. After a number of trials and

tribulations resulting in a whole slew of fairly mediocre pictures

(vast learning experience), a repeated problem "exposed" itself with

my new Digital Rebel. In long exposures over 2-3 minutes or so, a

red patch begins to appear in the bottom left corner of the frame.

As the length of exposure increases, so does the size and intensity

of the red patch. I confirmed that this wasn't an artifact of the

telescope by doing some longer exposures using the kit lens and a

50mm lense.

 

This isn't normal is it?

Thanks Sandy! Got me off the fence... Just paid via paypal.

A salesman at B&H told me today that the Canon Canoscan FS4000US has been discontinued. He didn't know of any replacement at this time.