jim_rosario

More tulips around here than in Holland.

 

http://www.tulipfestival.org/

I was there way before all the new developement and even then it was easy to get around. Just rent or hire a car from the nearest town. Late March the weather will be iffy but I had stretches of decent weather then but also snow which makes the roads difficult for a few days. I recommend flying down on the Argentine side to Calafate and crossing to Chile weather permitting.

I'm new to CS2 and one of the selling features to upgrade from v6 was the

advertised ability to easily correct vignetting. So how do I find the tools to

do it on a tif file? I can only see a way to do it with camera RAW files. The

answer is probably right in front of me but so far I can't find it.

The main problem is the altitude. The light can be very bright and harsh. I recommend shooting in the morning and evening as the mid day light is flat. When exposing for the foreground a polarizer will render the skies nearly black and since the sun is overhead the greatest effect is at the horizon. The light also exceeds the latitude of film and so a fill flash for people shots is recommended. The other effect of the altitude is on you. Trim the weight to a minimum or you won't be feeling like photography at all. Also you'll make a good target for theives if you have a bunch of stuff to defend. Slow film is good but bring some faster film if you'll be shooting in the markets or down at Macchu Picchu in the trees.

50~250 is an attractive range unfortunately the bokeh of this lens is poor IMHO. The 85~250 being much better.

In my experience you aren't going to get great pictures with a heavy backpack on. So I don't worry about having the camera always at the ready and stash it in a pack pocket in a soft pouch. Maybe carry a P&S for grab shots. Frankly my film camera still is best for hiking as it is small, picture storage is built in and batteries aren't an issue. Plus if I drop it in the creek no big loss.

I've found Harald Johnson's book Mastering Digital Printing, very helpful when used in conjunction with a PS book. Personally I find Scott Kelby's sense of humor distracting and annoying so would vote for Martin Evening's book.

If you don't really need the latest, greatest then look for an older version of PS and save a bundle. Plus you have the option of upgrading for a fraction of the full version price. I think the sweet spot for value in computers and software is somewhere a year or two behind the cutting edge. And at little sacrifice in usability.

<"Closer" is, of course, relative.....>

 

True indeed. But I assumed that most people would be coming from or passing thru the Lower 48 or Southern Canada. I don't have to go so far myself as there are at least 6 active nests within a few miles of my house. The fishing spots however give better and more photo ops. The bottom of an eagle's nest looks like a bunch of sticks, pretty boring photo :)

Way closer try Skagit River or near Squamish B.C.

I'm an eyeglass wearer too. I use eye cup #1 with the rubber hood removed which is easy enough to replace later if you wish. The frame alone gives some protection from backlight affecting the meter and you can get close enough to the eyepiece with glasses on to see the entire viewfinder.

 

Another option is to get an off brand eyecup and trim to suit. Please don't cut up an Eyecup1!

 

Eyecup1 must be removed to change film, no big deal IMO. I don't think Eyecup2 has to be removed. Custom diopters can be ground for EC1, ask you optometrist. Apparent distance to the screen is about 1 meter. Or make your own as suggested above. This makes EC1 more versatile.

Not quite as good as the Zuiko which tested best overall contrast. My experience bears this out. In any case I just can't get past the horrendous bokeh.

Daniel, Right out of college I did exactly what you are planning. I took an OM1 + 28mm/3.5 + 135/3.5 + generic 2x + polarizer + close up filter. The 28 is a good walk around focal length and the 135 is good for portraits like in the markets. Keep it simple. The beauty of this kit is that it is very small and light and very cheap ($100+/-) without sacrificing quality. So if it is stolen or you drop it in the river no big loss. And you'll use it more rather than baby it. Plus no batteries are required nor the extra paraphernalia that is necessary with digital. Ignore the naysayers. Have a great trip!

I would suggest at least an overnight in BA. An interesting and relaxing trip is through the estuary from Carmelo to Tigre and then a short train ride to Buenos Aires. A lot of photo opportunities, both people and wildlife.

Unfortunately a polarizer tends to leave its mark in the form of a dark spot, most notably with wides. Selective darkening of the sky in PS might be the best answer in this case. Also helps to correct vignetting

If you don't want to spend the big bucks pick up a copy of an older version, like 7. Plenty of good enough and you can upgrade later at a reduced price.

On the way out to the coast the highway passes through Cathedral Grove. Worth a stop. Tripod is mandatory here or 400asa film if the sun is out. If driving NW from Victoria stop at Goldstream Park, salmon may still be running. Whale watching from Victoria is most likely over by mid October. Be sure to ask if the whales are actually around before paying your money. Other places to stop, Saltspring Island, Qualicum Beach or Englishman River Falls. If driving up Island the view from Mt Washington is great and Strathcona Park is nice. Weather can be great or rainy.

I used to pack an OM1, 28/3.5 and 135/3.5. And +/- depending upon circumstance a 50/3.5, a polarizer, close up filters (for the 135), 2x and a clamp-pod. Very light and so cheap and ubiquitous as to be disposable should it be stolen or dropped in the lake.

 

Now I usually carry an OM4t with the 35~105 plus a wide in my pocket. I don't want to fall in the lake however especially with the 16 or 18 in my pocket. A cheaper alternative is the Tamron 28~200 or Tokina 35~200 but sacrifices quality and is bigger. Nor does this kit fit the 'zuiko prime' criteria.

Quote: Anything that helps you gain elevation will help minimize the need for tilting the camera upward.

 

Tilting a shift lens defeats the whole purpose. They should be used with the film plane plumb. Otherwise you may as well use any wide.

Maybe you can pick up a cheap version of 6 or 7. Or even Elements 3. I doubt if CS would be worth it for you. Remember the added hardware and OS requirements too.

http://www.interisland.net/watershed/mike/bfox1.jpg

 

Sitting down in thistle patch :>( w/ Studex unextended in my lap, 300/2.8 w/ 2x and 1.4x stacked. Linhof head.

 

Never would have gotten this close standing. Having the little guy/gal come up to me made me forget the thistles.

OK, you guys are right. The 300/2.8 will probably stay home and the 300/4.5 or 350/5.6 will go in the bag. (but man I hate the bokeh of the 350/5.6 Tam)

 

I've looked at the Feisol tripods and the 3402 looks pretty good and just a bit over 2lbs. Price is really reasonable if the tripod is as good as the reviews. I also looked at the Berlebach mini #500031. Looks sweet but pretty limited.

 

Lex, I sit down with a heavy lens too. I also find that i can get much closer to wildlife that way. Seems that a tall tripod spooks them much sooner. A person sitting isn't nearly so imposing.

A lot of my photography requires that I pack my equipment. I've pretty

much resigned myself to getting a small CF tripod like the Gitzo 0027

or 1027/28. I understand the trade-offs for such a small size but the

best tripod is one you actually use and I never pack the Studex very

far so it only sees what E. Weston would consider photogenic ;>). I

figure I can still use a pretty long lens (300/2.8) if I use the G0027

tripod sitting down with the legs not extended. The head will probably

be the weak link in this case. Anyway given that weight reduction is a

priority do you think this is reasonable? Any other CF tripods I

should consider besides the Gitzos? No more than 2lbs/1kg w/head

Well, that didn't come out right. I was refering to Gup's post.

 

This link to "orca"

http://www.interisland.net/watershed/mike/At_work/orc3.jpg

http://www.interisland.net/watershed/mike/At_work/orc4.JPG

<Gup's story is atypical ....>

Here in the San Juans his experience is very typical. The whales (orcas)are ringed by boats much of the summer. And the boats are frequently closer than the guidlines allow. I watched a boat very close to the whales last night. The whales may appear to be oblivious but ongoing research here has identified that boat noise may affect feeding since the noise interfers with the whales' communication. Add that stress to fewer food fish and high polution and you get a species in trouble. Do your watching from shore. I took this one from shore with a 300/4.5 <ahref=http://www.interisland.net/watershed/mike/At_work/orc3.jpg>orca</a>