lenmetcalf
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Posts posted by lenmetcalf
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Been away for the weekend... information to help with my question...
I am using the Photoshop CS soft proof option... I am using black point compensation.... the profiles are all custom made for the paper that I am using... viewing prints under daylight filtered halogen... and also checking under daylight... I sell my prints from a halogen lite sales room... the monitor is in darkened room... to cut out stray light...
I am personally convinced there is a problem... because when I was using epson's supplied profiles with their paper the prints were matching the calibrated monitor... it is though the gamma is wrong?
Thanks for the advice and please keep it coming...
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Have finished profiling my printer and paper combination and am using
it correctly, have also profiled the monitor... and the prints are
coming out as I would expect (when I compare them with other
calibrated printers).... but.... the printer is printing darker than
what is on the screen... using epson stylus pro 7600 ultrachrome
inkset (matt black ink) - innova photo cotton museum quality rag
paper and an Mac G4 with photoshop CS... any ideas on where to look
for the problem (oh using epson's Australia's recommended settings
and work flow) thanks... len
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Jim,
I have speed graphic and a 110 XL lens, can try for you if you still haven't gotten your answer.
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I used to put a Nikkor 150mm W on my Technika III, though I did have to take a file to the hole in the front extension rail. It didn't need much filing... I can't remember which model I had, but it did have a flat front cover, unlike the more modern ones that have a beveled cover. (it also had the square lens board - which is why I sold it - wasn't compatable with my tecnikardan - a camera that I don't miss)
I did love that lens, and camera, I took some great shots with it... Sorry I sold it now...
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Would love to know what E.I people are shooting Acros at and what you
are developing it in, including times and results. Times for sheet
film in tray development please. Just for a starting point. I want to
try some in D 76 and/or Xtol over the weekend.
Thanks, Len
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You could always try fuji quickloads or kodak ready loads. Availible in B&W (acros 100 & TMax 100)Colour Positive & Negative. Take the film and get someone else to develop it, and then print it.
Have fun. I loved using my graphic, wonderful camera.
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I was wondering what metering methods people are using to get nice
saturated sunsets. Please don't tell me to bracket as I can't afford
it. Trannie film, spot or incident metering methods?
My last few attempts were washed out.
Thanks.
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Must say that I agree with Frank. Start as cheap as possible, and with only one lens. You will slowly work out what you prefer. It is a very personal preference. I have used over 8 different view / monorail cameras, and have worked out exactly what I personally like, from hard learned lessons and lots of dollars latter. You can't beat playing with one for real (as mentioned earlier)
If I had to buy new and was starting from scratch, I'd buy a Tachihara (for price and weight alone - or a graphic if you prefer metal and strength) and add a Schneider Symmar XL 110mm lens, a quickload back, and start. You might outgrow the tachihara, but you will have learn't alot from it, and you can upgrade once you are hooked...
You will love the lens, and most people who own one say it is their favorite. Small, light, large image circle, sharp etc. Nice landscape proportions. Other favorites are the Rodenstock Sinnor 135mm (s or n depending on weight needs) Be careful of weight, size, image circle of various lenes, each has its advantages, and with so many to choose from... You do have to decide what you want to use it for.
Me I can't go past having all movements in a camera, and operations that I can complete without getting out from under the dark cloth. I'll carry a heavy camera for stability, range of lenes it can use, and movements.
Save your money for you will want to expand as you grow and develop... They do take time to learn to use to thier full potential.
Regards,
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Hello,
Thanks for your answers. Just what I wanted to know, and have ordered one.
Regards,
Len
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Hi,
Have been trying to find out if I can use a zone modified pentax
digital spot meter for colour work. Does the modifications which
include various filters alter how it measures colours? Calumet say
that it is specifically designed for panochromatic films.
Will it work for me with colour films? I shoot both regularly.
Thanks Len
D5 mk ii focus indicator red light
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>CAn someone please help... </p>
<p>Is it possible to set up the D5 mk 2 so that the red indicator light in the viewfinder that is on the focus point remains on after locking the focus?</p>
<p>It currently beeps once to show lock then goes off... While the little green dot does stay on...</p>
<p>THanks in advance</p>
<p>Len</p>