scoopsr

I had the same experience the first time I tried my converter, Jason, so I'm glad to be of help. Panic then puzzlement. It could be so much easier. Anyway, that's one of the good things about this list.

On my TC PE the instructions are to remove lens and TC from camera. Then you must move the cocking pin on the base of the TC manually to the green dot. At that point you depress the lens release button also located on the base and turn the lens clockwise at the same time. It should be the same for yours I believe. It is a little confusing until you see it work.

Years ago Nikon started telling users of their lenses and filters that they should use denatured alcohol to clean multi-coated elements. The Kodak Lens Cleaners, and most others, leave the hazy residue you see. Try some alcohol or Everclear and it will do a great job. I carried a small container in my camera bags for years. Double duty for a frustrating day. Seriously, it is not for consumption but it is the answer at least for Nikon lenses and probably others.

While understanding, and supporting, the idea of a folding camera sub-section in MFD, I would point out to those interested in the subject that there is an existing folding camera group at Yahoo.groups. You might want to take a look there also.

I keep waiting for someone to suggest the obvious first step - check the battery. Batteries in these cameras sometimes die without warning. There may be a lithium in there which is especially prone to a sudden death.

Bob, I have the lens and shutter from a 6x6 Ikonta that I dismantled to make a Larscan panoramic camera. It is a Tessar in a Compur Rapic I believe.

I would have to get to my workshop to be sure about the shutter. It is in good working order and the lens is clean. Contact me off list if you are interested.

I, too, would be curious about your project. Don Roberts droberts@soli.inav.net

I don't know about 8x10 enlargers for this. They are huge honkers, hard to find and expensive to get lenses, boards etc for. I also have a Beseler 4x5 and gave up on 6x17 printing with it. I found an Omega E2 5x7 enlarger with stand, condenser and cold light heads, a 180 mm El-Nikkor and a factory Omega 6x17 carrier (excellent and still made) for $400. That has proved to be the ideal system for me. I haven't checked the market for such set ups but I would think they would be more available and cheaper than 8x10 systems.

Fine idea but are you all aware there is already a folding camera club on Yahoo.clubs? Try this URL to see what it's like.

http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/foldingcameras

Jessops, in the UK, sells 127 BW film for a very good price. Try them at: http://www.jessops.com

Coincidentally, I have just listed two 70mm processing tanks and reels on ebay. One is for the 15' length and the other will do up to 7'. Both are Nikor stainless steel. Jobo no longer makes the 15' reels, loaders and tank. They do have the 5' length available yet. Kindermann also makes tanks and reels.

Rolland, I use a Bronica ETRSi with 70mm back a lot. Like it very much and find the only disadvantage is the need for a finder accessory called a Multi-Scope to have both eye level or waist level viewing. If you can find one of those it is a very versatile and easy to use system. One camera you didn't mention that I also use is the Graflex XL. I have an XLSW with 70mm back and 47mm Super Angulon which is a lot of fun to shoot with. Also have the XLRF with 58mm Grandagon and 85mm Planar and another 70mm back on that. Don't use that as much as the SW but it works fine. You can use perforated or unperforated film with either system. Mamiya 70mm backs seem to be hard to find. I think WJ may have a Bronica back for sale yet. I would love to see how you built your 70mm developing tank. I have reels but the tanks (I have Nikkor and Kindermann) are not suited for rotary processing which I would like to do. Any other questions I can help with?

I have the folding Fuji 645 and have lost the manual. I need to change

the ASA setting and, in spite of fiddling with it and then searching

the internet, I can't find the answer. Will someone familiar with

these cameras please ease my suffering and tell me how to change the

film speed setting?

I was very happy with Paul Ebel at Lens Services at S419 Newman Ave.,

Box 86, Spring Valley, WI 54767. Phone 715-778-4372.

I have a Minolta Autocord with 3.5 Rokkor. I need a bayonet lens hood,

lens cap and filter holder ring. Anyone have these laying around?

Please contact by email.

Does anyone here have the info on how to tighten up the speed grip for

an ETRSi? Mine tends to slide just a little if I carry the camera by

the grip handle and then it won't fire from the shutter release on the

grip.

I have a 67 which I might be persuaded to sell since I am somewhat equipment heavy. Condition is KEH EX with lens cap and strap. Like the camera a lot but have too many other alternatives. Care to make an offer and we can discuss it?

I use a 47mm SA on a Graflex XLSW. There would seem to be enough space between rear element and film plane to use on a Crown Grpahic with bellows collapsed. As noted, you may not have movements but it should work.

F may well stand for "focal plane" flash bulbs as there used to be a different flash duration for cameras with leaf shutters (M sych) and focalplane shutters (F synch). I don't remember details on Rolleicord, using Rolleiflex sometimes instead, but I am surprised that there is not a V setting for self-timer.

Rich, there are at least two varieties of 70mm backs for ETR. The Bronica back is indeed a discontinued item from Bronica and holds the 15' cartridges. I may be wrong but I think the Beattie back takes 100' foot rolls rather than cartridges. At least that was the difference between the Beattie for the Graflex XL and the Graflex version. I am not sure what you mean about negative printing so I can't answer that question. The Bronica mags are as well made as the rest of the Bronica line. You will need to either restrict yourself to waist level viewing or find a Bronica Multi-Scope (my recommendation) for viewing as the mag sticks back quite a bit.

One aspect everyone seems to have overlooked in this discussion is the ability to use Kodak HIE in you MF camera if you use a 35mm back. This provided enough incentive for me to buy a 35mm Wide back for my Bronica system. Now I can shoot true BW IR if I wish while carrying my mainstay system and get a wider aspect ratio to boot. I could see no other significant use for 35mm on MF. A good P&S takes up the same space as another MF back so why not use that instead?

Wes, I sarted my photo career in 1956 with a Minolta Autocard RA. It had a 75mm Rokkor which was an excellent lens. I still think some of my better photos were taken with that camera over the years. I now have Rolleis, Bronicas, Pentax 6x7s, Nikons, etc. and I would love to have that old Autocord back. As I recall the best feature was the focusing lever below the taking lens which may also have been a weaakness as I see mention of broken levers in used equipment posts.

1. Steve, the circle is obviously your way of setting the flash for your ISO etc. but I'm sure you knew this. It is probably a little too involved (not meaning difficult) to explain here so I suggest you contact Bogen for an instruction book. Or perhaps a local dealer will have one you can xerox. That is what I did for a 45CL-4. 2. You don't say what Bronica you are working with but if it is the ETRSi the SCA386 TTL module has been available for at least three years. At least that is when I got mine. I believe there is also one for the SQ-AM but I don't know particulars.

I use the same on-camera flash (45CL-4) some and also use a Metz 40MZ-2 with a G16 grip for the same purposes. The 40MZ-2 being more versatile. Additionally the 40MZ-2, as well as the 40MZ-3, offer off-camera remote wireless TTL capacity when used with any Metz flash with TTl capability. Incredibly useful and seems to be very reliable. E-mail me if you have any questions about the system and I will try to help.