gray_mason

<p>Just a warning about the RAW+jpeg mode on the M8: Be sure to remember to turn the camera off yourself after setting the RAW mode (don't let the M8 go to sleep on its own). With my M8, if it decides to take a nap before I remember to turn it off, the processor freezes with a blank battery/shots remaining window and no activity on the LCD screen. To recover it takes a long wait (about 48 hours) with the battery removed before the camera resets itself and becomes usable again. <br>

When I turn the M8 off myself, no problems.<br>

GM</p>

<p>Leica site just posted new firmware update 2.014 for M8 series cameras.<br>

It "optimizes internal processes" and includes support for the Super-elmar 21mm lens.<br>

Those of us hoping for menu driven lens identification will have to wait for firmware 3.0 (or quit hoping!)</p>

 

<p>Leica M9 firmware v 1.162 is now available.<br>

<a href="http://en.leica-camera.com/service/downloads/rangefinder_cameras/m9/index.html">http://en.leica-camera.com/service/downloads/rangefinder_cameras/m9/index.html</a><br>

M8 firmware update will follow shortly according to Leica blog.</p>

<p>I'm fond of my Konica Hexanon f=2.0 35mm UC. Tiny, pretty fast, and well made.</p>

<p>The Olympus 36R flash for the 4/3 system is a bounce flash that works seamlessley with the D-Lux 4--TTL, zoom, flash attenuation, everything. Not too big either . . .</p>

<p>Check out the 4/3 cameras (Panasonic, Olympus (a new one is just coming on the market), and Leica. Small, good quality, interchangeable lenses. Cheaper than an M8. (For much less than the price of an M8.2, you could get the 4/3 camera kit, a beater Leica M3 and a couple of Voigtlander lenses--with an adapter you could even use the Leica mount lenses on the 4/3 camera!)</p>

<p>Just a suggestion . . . You might add a leather protector to isolate the metal ring from coming in contact with the camera. A simple patch of leather with a hole for the eyelet (and held in place by the metal ring passing through the eyelet) would protect the camera finish.<br>

BTW a wrist strap might be a good idea. Would work well with a "Thumbs Up" and a camera grip.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi Tom<br>

I just got my IIIa back from a CLA by Youxin Ye in Massachusetts. Less than $100.<br>

Before CLA, my slow shutter speeds behaved like yours. Now, there's no problem--they fire smoothly. Mechanical operation is now remarkably smooth. There are many other places for a CLA, but I'm impressed with how the camera works so much more smoothly after being relubricated after 73 years.<br>

BTW, I also have a 5cm f2 Summar, and it's pretty soft. I found a red scale 5cm f3.5 Elmar, and it's pretty darn sharp.<br>

Good luck. It's a great camera, and I love taking pictures with it. I'm even developing my own B+W film!</p>

Neil, I feel your pain about the difficulty focusing.

 

I put a Katz eye focusing screen in my D2H. The split prism really helps in most situations. It's just like

focusing a manual film SLR

I'm using the TC-16 on my D2H with a 300mm 2.8--and it (kinda sorta) makes that old beater of a manual focus lens

into an autofocus lens. (As I understand it, the TC-16 has a moving element which can focus a variable amout

depending on the focal length of the lens. With a 50mm, it has a wide focusing range; with the 300mm, it only "fine

tunes" the focus.) With the above camera/tc/lens combo, the birds I photograph look sharp. (That being said, my

lack of technique makes the "sharp" birds look crappy--the photographer's problem not the equipment.)

 

NB: the TC-16 only works with the D2H and D2X and some older film bodies. (The D200, D300, and D3 only work--

partially--with a modified TC-16)

Josh, I feel your pain . . . or your euphoria.

 

I recently received a Leica IIIa. After so much digital work, it was invigorating to go back to film. Started developing my own B+W. Using an old negative scanner to print with PS.

 

And you're right about the R-D1. A lot of fun to use. I seen to get a higher percentage of keepers with the R-D1 than with any of my DSLR's.

 

BTW, I have a 35mm f2 Hexanon LTM lens if you're interested. (It's silver, not the UC version.)

My (fixed lens) Hexar on silent mode is the quietest shuttered camera I've ever used. Quiter than my mechanical

Leica. Much quieter than a Bessa RF or pro level DSLR.

 

With its silent mode engaged, I've taken pictures in church with no one aware of the shutter action. BTW, if you

come across a Silver version Hexar, you can still enable the silent mode. Check out the Hexar review here on PN.

 

(And the Hexar's IQ is excellent . . .)

Richard, is that because, unlike the balky Nikons, your Canon really doesn't have a shutter behind that mirror? ;-)

Natalie, I had a similar experience about six months ago. My Leica had a 241XXX number, and it looked like a IIIc.

I've put about 20 rolls of film through it, and the camera rocks. A P.N thread helped me learn how to load it. The

original plan was to cut a long leader. This thread lists a couple of alternatives

 

http://www.photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/002pDy

 

The lens sounds like a post-war Elmar. I'm using a "red-scale" version of the lens which works very well.

 

Does the rangefinder on your camera work?

 

Good luck, and have fun.

I wonder . . . Are the new Summarits considered "sub-prime" lenses?

My experience is the same as Alex and Bob. The CV28/3.5 produces very sharp images. This one is with an ancient Leica IIIc.. In spite of the small size of the lens, the focusing tab and aperture ring are convenient. I have no need for a pricier 28mm.<div></div>

Robin, my metal finder is smooth. Haven't had a problem with scratched glasses.

I have a Luigi half case for my Leica IIIc, and it's beautiful. In operation, it's less aggravating than the original case

that screwed into the base of the camera. The snaps work easily, and there's no front protector to interfere with wide

angle lenses. I'm a happy customer.

 

Just a suggestion: on the IIIc, Luigi's lovely leather straps are gorgeous, but a bit too big for the lugs on the camera

and the holes in the case. I cannibalized a thinner strap to use instead. If you're tempted to go with Luigi (and you

won't be unhappy if you do), get a thinner strap. (Check out the CV straps at CameraQuest or the thin Domke strap)

Cathy, the best choice to replace the n6006 depends on what kind of lenses you have. Several websites have lists

of compatible lenses and cameras (Ken Rockwell, for instance:

 

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm

 

but there are others). Although virtually all Nikon lenses will fit in the socket, different functions (autofocus, distance,

matrix metering) may or may not work depending on lens type and camera capability.

 

I would check out my lenses and then go online and see which camera works best. (If the lenses aren't "G" lenses

without aperture rings, you might go for a manual FE or FE2.)

One other difference. On my Leica IIIc, the 28/35 minifinder is a much tighter fit in the camera's shoe than any of my other shoe accessories (meter, metal finder, 15mm plastic finder, etc.). The good news--it certainly won't fall out. The bad news--it's a challenge to put it back in its little velvet bag.

 

That said, all these finders are approximations. The round one is a little easier to use wearing glasses.

Interesting thread. Unfortunately, my ability to create compelling images is the limiting factor for my photographic talents rather than the brand or the price of my lenses.

 

That said, I do like my Tamron 28-70 f2.8. Can't tell the difference between that lens and similar Nikon glass.

Suggestion 1: Olympus XA film camera. Tiny rangefinder with detachable flash. You can carry it along with your

digital gear. Good (almost great) lens.

 

Suggestion 2: Manual Nikon SLR camera (like the FE). Get a 50mm f1.8 lens. The experiencing the added steps of

focusing and setting exposure will tell you whether that part of the process works for you. And you'll have a

film backup body.

 

Warning: A few months ago, a friend of mine loaned me a Leica IIIc with a couple of lenses, and I'm hooked.

Taking pictures all over the place, suffering from rangefinder CAS, and learning how to develop B+W film.

 

Good luck.

Thanks, Arthur.

 

Yes, three other VC accessories fit the cold shoe just fine. And the light meter appears to have the identical "foot"

as the balky 28 -35 viewfinder. The flanges appear to be identical in thickness.

 

The flanges of the "foot" are made of aluminum. I'm thinking of repeatedly installing the viewfinder (difficult, but

possible) and see if the fittings loosen some with use . . .

 

The emery board (or other fine abrasive) seems like a great plan B. I'll keep you posted.

 

GM

I gotta different problem. My VC 28/35 viewfinder is too tight to fit the shoe on a vintage Leica It's a real push to get

it completely on, and a bear to remove when fully mounted. Other shoe accessories (other viewfinders, the mini

lightmeter, etc.) fit just fine.

 

Any suggestions?

Recently received a like new IIIc with some lenses. I'm fascinated with it! Even brought out my trusty

Yashicamat! Using both several times a week.

 

Now to learn about developing B+W film . . .

 

(My D200's a mite dusty.)