anthony_hicks
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Posts posted by anthony_hicks
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<blockquote>
<p>And for the "what, no built-in flash?!" crowd - get en external flash: your flash photography will improve considerably!</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Its called convenience. I own a separate flashgun but like to travel as light as possible. Potential buyers of the 6D attracted by its reduced size and weight compared to other full frame cameras might think the same.</p>
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<p>If the 6D is supposed to be an 'entry level' full frame camera, I'm puzzled. Here in the UK the 6D body is advertised at 1800GBP (virtually what I paid for my 5D2 three and a half years ago), while the 5D2 body is available for 300GBP less. If I was an xxD user looking to move up to full frame, I'm not sure why I'd want to pay the extra for a 6D, unless I really wanted the GPS and wireless gizmos. From what I've read so far it appears the 6D might not be as solidly built as a 5D2 either.<br>
I also agree with Yakim, a built in flashgun is handy for a small amount of fill flash. Personally, its the only feature I miss having on my 5D2.</p>
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<p><em>"It's a hell of a lot of camera regardless of sensor size."</em><br>
<em></em><br>
Agreed.</p>
<p><em>"I... have no interest whatsoever in FF, and one thing this sensor delivers in spades is properly useful extra "croppability"."</em></p>
<p>But will it really offer so much more "croppability" over a 50D to justify costing twice as much? (Genuine question - I dabble in a bit of bird photography, it was one reason for keeping my 450D when I got a 5D2)</p>
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<p>True, the 7D price will fall a little before long, even here in the UK. But essentially, I agree with David. A premium of almost £1000 over a 50D is a hell of a lot to pay. Yes you get more bells and whistles, but at the end of the day its still a 1.6 crop camera...</p>
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<p>When I was using 1.6 crop I tried all the alternatives for a 50mm equivalent lens and wasnt completely happy with any of them. I found the Canon 35/2 the best of the bunch though.<br>
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<p>The latest version of ACR works fine for 5D2 files as mentioned above. However I found it produced rather 'flat' results so I reverted to using DPP as my Raw converter.</p>
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<p>Pentax 645NII loaded with Provia 100F. If the British weather is good enough.</p>
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<p>I've had mine a couple of weeks and so far it is meeting or exceeding expectations. So far the only thing I've found less than ideal is the focusing points being grouped together in the middle of the screen, why couldn't they have been spaced out a bit? Other than that its a top piece of kit. I must admit that I do prefer the position and feel of the on/off switch on my 450D, but its a minor point.</p>
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<p>Thanks for those Charles. Looks like I might be forking out for an adapter!</p>
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<p>Did you try your Pentax 55mm this time Charles?</p>
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<p>Still dithering over buying an adapter here :o)</p>
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<p>I have been using mine since 1990, it is my longest serving lens. Not stellar in image quality, but perfectly acceptable and the fast AF makes it a pleasure to use.</p>
<p>It seems odd that almost 20 years on, there are still so many lenses in the Canon line up that have inferior focusing mechanisms to this lens...</p>
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<p>Incidentally, are you on full frame or crop?</p>
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<p>Very interesting Charles, thanks for posting. I looked into the possibility of this a while back but at the time I didnt persue it...</p>
<p>I still shoot with my Pentax, albeit not so frequently these days, but the lenses are superb and deserve more use. It sounds like I have a similar 645 kit to you too (55 / 75 / 80-160 / 200). It was the potential use of the 55mm on my 450D that particularly interested me, have you tried this lens with your adapter?</p>
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<p>You can get "bad copies" of a lens by any manufacturer. Last year I bought a Canon 24-105L which was shocking, it went straight back.</p>
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<p>Rob, a while ago I was looking at the same choice of lenses and ended up going with with a Canon 35/2. As others have noted, it isn't perfect and its a shade longer than I prefer. But I decided to stick with it because away from f2 it has relatively even sharpness across the frame, whereas the Canon 28/1.8 and Sigma 30/1.4 are sharp in the centre but are nowhere near as good elsewhere. This may or may not be important to you.</p>
<p>Maybe the rumoured/hoped for Canon 30/2 EF-S might appear and give us all another choice.</p>
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<p>Bear in mind that Sigma have very recently completely redesigned the 24-70/2.8, the new version has HSM focusing (their equivalent of USM) and is only just starting to hit the shops. I tried one at the Focus on Imaging show here in the UK on Sunday, and it handled very nicely, but I haven't seen a review of it yet. I would say this lens is certainly worth a look.</p>
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<p>I was at Focus on Imaging at the NEC on Sunday. For people attending the show, Calumet was offering a 'show special' body only price of £1783. I've no idea if they are still offering it at that price though, and the show ends today.</p>
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<p>I agree with Tommy - but I'm not sure how you'd convert it from EFS to EF without dark corners! Best introduce a 30mm EF instead.... we live in hope :o)</p>
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<p>Agreed Paul. I just think its a pity that Canon don't produce a really great 28mm prime. The 28/1.8 matches the standards of the 85/1.8 in build quality but not in performance. Canon are more interested in zooms and revamping existing 'L' primes which were already excellent.</p>
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<p>I found the 35/2 better than the 28/2.8 in image quality. Both lenses use 1987 focusing technology and are well overdue an update.</p>
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<p>I use both. The 35/2 is a good lens, but the 85.1.8 is different class, with superb definition and sharpness. I have found it great for candid portraits.</p>
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<p>James, I can't really add to the 50/1.4 part of your question, because I have used one only fleetingly - I use a 50/1.8 mark1 instead. However to answer your general sharpness question, I guess to some extent it depends on what kind(s) of photography you do. If portraiture is your main subject matter, your requirements/priorities for a lens will naturally be different from somebody who takes, for example, landscapes. Sharpness might not be a prime consideration for you, but it is for many people, myself included. I like my photos to have real "bite" with plenty of detail.</p>
<p>Sharpness is of course far from being the only ingredient of a good lens. For some people, bokeh is a big consideration, but for me it has no importance. However, distortion is important to me, and my pet hate is a lens that at F5.6 and beyond is sharp in the middle but mediocre at the edges (the Sigma 30/1.4 and Canon 28/1.8 spring to mind). But for people who take portraits I fully understand that this particular characteristic is of no concern and might even be beneficial!</p>
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<p>Hi Paul, there have been plenty of threads on this lens and the alternatives, for example:</p>
6D wifi tablet connection problems
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>Hi all. For a few months now I've been shooting remotely with my 6D, connected via wifi to a Google Nexus 7 (2012) tablet running the 'DSLR controller' app. Once connected, this set up works fine, but connecting is a very hit and miss affair - sometimes I can attempt to connect a couple of dozen times before it works. I get a better hit rate if I try to connect as soon as the tablet has been switched on, but sometimes I have to connect in a hurry and I don't have enough time to power the tablet off and back on again.<br>
I just wondered if anyone else uses a similar set up and has experienced this problem, or has managed to solve it? I've tried wiping and reinstalling Android on the tablet. I don't use the tablet for anything else except remote shooting, so its not exactly jam packed with software that might slow it up. The camera and tablet are always just a few inches away from each other when I'm trying to connect.<br>
Thanks.</p>