don_minton

I am trying to put/get a ball head on a conventional consumer-grade tripod. I was perplexed to find at local retail that the tripods in my price range ($50-100, Velbon or Slik) only come with the 2-way pivot heads. In order to get a tripod with just s flat solid platform, I'm looking at a $300-500 Bogen or Gitzo.

 

I'd rather not have to screw the ball head adapter on TOP of the multi-jointed/quick-release heads of the affordable tripods. Is there an affordable model out that has a rigid platform? Am I stuck scouring junk stores and pawn shops for old bogens? Or should I resort to a hacksaw and a welding torch? :-)

 

BTW, i am using a Mamiya C220.

 

 

DM

 

 

www.geocities.com/~minton2

http://www.photoshopper.com/forum/main.html

 

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Give this a try. It is a little different in that there are several "topic' areas, but generally a pretty good list.

 

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DM

I am intersted in using filters on my Mamiya C220. I am shooting with a black, 65mm lens (49mm dia.) which has no threads, only ribs around the lens.

 

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Is there a special attachement I need to get normal Tiffen or Cokin threaded filters to fit the lens? Or do I need to buy (competitively priced, I'm sure) proprietary Mamiya filters.

 

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It looks like front ring would screw out to allow for a threaded filter- it does have a knurled gripping surface - but it also looks like this piece is olding the lens element in place. I would be reluctand to perform this kind of surgery, to "break the seal", on the single most expensive piece of camera I own! Not to mention this could be tricky in the field.

 

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Thanks,

 

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Don Minton

www.geocities.com/soho/studios/6051

I have used a generic flash bracket by KALT which sells for $16.00 retail. This is a very simple L-bracket with a cold shoe on top of the grip. You have to experiment with where to place the camera on the bracket, since you have to focus with the fingers of your grip hand! If you use a lumiquest bouncer, using the viewfinder may be difficult as well. But I got it to work by switching to left-eye focusing.

 

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DM

Okay, I'll quit bugging everybody about the C220 after this.

 

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The C220F has two small posts for the neck strap, instead of the usual slots. I have seen this on an old Rollei strap before, but all the straps ive been able to find at camera stores, even the pro camera stores are for slot-type mounts. Does anyone still make this type of strap?

 

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thx,

 

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Don

I just broke down and bought a C220F in EX+ condition (meaning it still has Mr. Mamiya's fingerprints on it!) from a local used-camera catalog store. Man is this thing NICE. Almost too nice - I'll be scared to use it hard. I am a good mind to take it back and exchange for a slightly dented C220 and save $140!

 

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I digress. My YMat 124 G had a tick mark on the inside to tell me how far to advance the film when loading a new roll, in either format. This one doesn't. To save myself a couple of half frames, is there a rule of thumb for loading film? Are both formats the same?

 

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Thanks,

Don Minton

www.geocities.com/soho/studios/6051

There seems to be a school of thought that the C220's are "older" than the C330's. I also get this from alot of the camera stores around here. From reading G A Pattersons page, I thought the cameras ran concurrent, but with fewer bells & whistles on the 220. Am I right?

I currently use a Yashicamat 124G for mostly handheld "street" shooting. I am considering a C220 or C220F due to its lighter weight and slightly smaller size(I am assuming) than the C330. I have read GA Pattersons Mamiya page, so I have an idea about the differences in the camers. Are there some major drawbacks of the C220 that I am not considering or aware of , that a first-hand user would kow about? i.e.: Is manual shutter cocking a total pain? Is knob advance on 220F easy to use? Does the 220 have a dark slide? Is it alot more plastic, and does this make it less durable? Do all the Black Lenses for the C330 fit the 220?

 

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Thanks,

Don

www.geocities.com/soho/studios/6051

I tried the Wide Kit. didn't like it. Didn't inhale.

 

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To me, the trade-offs were too great: Its only _slightly_ wider,; you loose at least 1 stop. Vignetting and sharpness in the corners is a problem, esp now that you are shooting a stop or more wider. Focusing image is much dimmer.

 

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I shoot "street" and found these trade-offs unacceptible. May be ok for some people, esp. in a studio setting. I am currently considering a C-220 w/ a 65 for wide-angle protability.

I am an amateur photographer who shoots mostly "street" photography. (www.geocities.com/soho/studios/6051, if you must...) I currently use a Yashicamat 124G, which at $200 - $300 is practically disposable. I was considering getting a used Bronica, but I am worried about lugging around $2-3000 worth of equipment in not-always-nice company. I know the pros are probably covered thru company or small business type policies. But can an individual, amateur, get "camera insurance"? Does a homeowners policy cover that sort of thing? If I get mugged? Or what if I just drop it off a bidge or something? (I know I know...call my agent...). Besides, my wife says we could get dropped, or at least a black mark if I make a claim as "small" as $2000 against a homeowners policy w/ a $500 deductible.

 

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Anybody?

I am toying with buying a Bronica SQ-B, probably used, for a variety of reasons. I like the flexibility a system camera has over my Yashicamat 124G - mainly the availability of lenses, and closer focusing. (And I can now afford it!)

 

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However, when you release the shutter, it sounds like you're slamming a car door!

 

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I shoot almost exclusively handheld, natural light, (albiet on fast film - tri-x 320). At what shutter speeds do I need to worry about vibration? Is this a Bronica thing or an SLR thing? -- should I be looking at Hassleblads?

 

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Then there is the issue of conspicuity. The yashicamat is virtually silent. I know it doesn't matter in the studio, but do you find this annoying/distracting/embarrassing in public?

 

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I hope these aren't silly questions, but it is an 10x increase in equipment investment for me! If & when.

 

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Thanks,

 

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Don Minton

www.geocities.com/soho/studios/6051

I tried the "wide" adapter and was not impressed. You get only slightly wider coverage, with considerable loss of sharpness @ the edges especially. The viewfinder is much less bright, and thus harder to focus. And you loose an entire stop or more. At some apertures you get vignetting as well.

 

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The adapter I tried was not made by Yashica, but was not cheap either. While I LOVE the Yashicamat, the fixed lens has been my biggest frustration.

I am flirting with purchasing the 6 MF. Can anyone tell me what the effective field of view (in degrees) is when used in 35mm "panoramic" mode with the 50 mm lens? I assume the aspect ratio is roughly 24x60 mm, am I correct? Also, how close does the 50 mm lens focus?

 

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Thanks,

Don Minton

I am using an old Rolleiflex TLR (borrowed), but have no manual. (It says "Synchro-compur" and "Franke & Heidecke, Germany" around the bottom lens, if that helps...). It takes only 120 film, but there is no mark inside the camera to indicate where to advance the roll's arrow to before shutting the lid. can anyone give me a rule of thumb so I don't lose half a frame?

 

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Thanks!

 

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Don Minton

minton2@mindspring.com