markus_franke

I have owned both lenses and currently use only the 50-500mm. Seems as if I, too, had a good copy of the 170-500mm (or, subsequently, a bad one of the 50-500mm), since the 50-500 seemed a bit more soft - but still very good. The main factor for me is the autofocus speed that is considerably better in the 50-500 - if you're into moving subjects, you will get a much lower share of missed or out-of-focus images with it.

Hope this helps.

I remember having one of those in my hands a few years ago, however before I decided to buy it, it was gone... <br>

There are definitely some of these lenses that are compatible with the newer dslrs from canon, because that one was. You'll just have to test it. Optical performance was decent, though not stellar - better than a consumer zoom, not as good as the newer Sigma 70-200 2.8 or the tokina 80-200 2.8 (which may be obtained on that auction site for a little bit more than 300 Euros with some luck). Another question is that of focus speed. Here, the newer Sigma beats both the older Sigma and the tokina hands down...

<p>To sum it up, maybe you might want to consider the tokina. It is optically between the two sigmas (close to the newer one), has an autofocus speed slightly above the older Sigma and costs a bit more.

<br>Some shots (indoors, with a 10D) can be found on my site, for instance

<a href="http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=210&page=3&showCat=9&expandCat=9&lang=de">

http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=210&page=3&showCat=9&expandCat=9&lang=de</a>

<p>Hope this helps,

<br>Markus

Thanks for your opinion, Bob. I will check where there is a Canon repair center close to my location.

Cheers, Markus

I have a question concerning the volume of AF noise on a 500mm 4.5 L (not the

more modern 4.0 IS version): It seems to be louder than that of the 300/2.8

(non-IS). The noise sounds a bit squeaky, as if the mechanical parts of the lens

were insufficiently lubricated. I know that the USM unit of this lens cannot be

replaced any more at reasonable cost, but can any of you

-confirm if the 500mm lens is in fact louder than the 300mm lens or

-tell me whether it would make sense to send it to Canon for "a drop of oil"?

Thanks in advance,

Markus

You might want to look at the sigma 170-500. Optically, I like it, although af is slow and you end up at 6.3 at the long end. BUT: it is in your price range and most models on the secondhand market today should also work with the newer EOSes.

<p>

You can find some pictures taken with this lens:

<br><a

href=http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=197&showCat=12&expandCat=9&lang=de>here</a>

<br><a href=http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=198&showCat=12&expandCat=9&lang=de>here</a>

and <br><a href=http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=192&showCat=12&expandCat=9&lang=de>here</a>

<p>have fun,

<br>maf

You might want to try the Minolta Viewfinder VN. I have got one of those on my 10D (same small viewfinder...) and in the magnification setting, it just cuts off the corners but still offers an overview that is sufficient for my purposes - may be a viable compromise for you, too.

Beware however that the switch from magnified to normal and vice versa only works correctly if no diopter correction is set, else you will have to fine tune the correction on the angle finder every time you switch...

Have fun,

maf

Optically, this lens is okay, rated a bit lower by photodo.com than the canon or sigma equivalents. If af speed is no big issue for you, I would recommend it. Have a look at these pics, taken indoors at the zoo on a 10D:

<br><a href=http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=171&showCat=9&expandCat=9&lang=de> pic1</a>

<br><a href=http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=210&page=1&showCat=10&expandCat=9&lang=de> pic2</a>

<br>

<a href=http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=190&page=1&showCat=9&expandCat=9&lang=de> pic3</a>

<p>

The front lens is not critical, since the filter does not attach directly to it, but to the frame around it that does not rotate.

<p>

btw: got mine good as new from eBay for a bit more than 300 EUR, so maybe this is an option, too.

<p>Have fun,

<br>maf

Yup, just did it, killed the circuit board and connected this one pin directly. Works okay indoors (in the middle of the night...), will have to test it in normal light conditions tomorrow.

BTW: This was not an issue of old 3rd party equipment-new camera but a defective tc.

Yes, the Tamron tc does not have the three extra pins. All pins it has are directly wired through, except for one that takes the deviation over the circuit board.

I think I will just try to bypass the board and see what happens. Since, as you say, the canon extenders are directly wired, this could work - although af may be too fast without the extra pins.

Thank for the answers,

maf

Hi,

with the 500 super (should be similar), you can choose up to four different channels - obviously, it's only two for the 430 super.

This serves to keep apart the signals from different masters to their slaves if more than one photographer is around with sigma units. Simply set master and slave to the same channel and everything should work fine.

Best regards,

maf

Hi,

recently I bought a Tamron 1.4 tc for EOS (one of the older models)

that does not focus correctly on a 10D or 50E/ElanIIe, even with a 1.8

lens attached (so this is not an issue of lens speed being above 5.6).

The lens will start focussing when the shutter button is half

depressed, but then stops somewhere (after maybe a quarter second of

focussing) without aquiring focus. Subsequent presses of the shutter

button do not motivate the lens to move. The correct aperture (though

without tc factor) is shown at all times in the display.

Having opened the tc, I noticed that the circuit board looks a bit

corroded here and there. My question is: can I simply bypass it? What

is its function, does it slow down af or is there anything else?

Thanks in advance,

maf

AFAIK, there is a microswitch in the hotshoe (sorry, don't know where exactly) that prevents the built-in flash to pop up when an external flash is mounted. Maybe it is stuck?

Good luck,

maf

Hi,

the only serious drawback I see is the relatively slow autofocus and the - IMHO - impractical af clutch mechanism for switching to mf and back.

<p>You can find some pictures on my <a href="http://maf.funpic.de">page</a>, especially these ones:

<br><a href="http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=171&showCat=9&expandCat=9&lang=de">Tiger</a>

<br><a href="http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=189&page=1&showCat=9&expandCat=9&lang=de">Bat I</a>

<br><a href="http://maf.ma.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=190&page=1&showCat=9&expandCat=9&lang=de">Bat II</a>

<p>Contact me if you need crops from the fullsize images

<p>Have fun,

maf

Manual focussing can get a bit tricky with the 300d/10d/20d due to their small and dim viewfinder. OTOH, the Zenitar 16/2.8 has the last mark before infinity at 3 meters on the focus ring, so anything farther away than say 5-10 meters should be okay with the infinity setting...

BTW: In europe, these fisheyes sometimes sell for as low as 100 EUR (a bit more than 130$ at the current rate) on the big auction site.

Have fun,

maf

I agree with Emily. Building up the right anticipation helps a lot. I just spent a day at the zoo (freezing and being snowed upon), but the pictures are worth it - and that's what gives me the push that I need in the morning in order not to fall back into bed. A thermos of coffee or tea isn't a bad idea, either :-)

Go on and shoot,

maf<div></div>

Well, this is canon's profit maximization for you. They do sell the LC-4 which is an external IR control, big and expensive. Maybe they felt that whoever can afford a 10D/20D should be able to cough up a couple of hundred bucks for an ir remote, too...

Have fun, nonetheless,

maf

Furthermore, you might want to try the minolta angle finder. It fits on the 10d and has a 1x/2x magnification. They sell used for about 80EUR in Germany, not sure about your place. This might be an alternative if you do some macro shots or similar.

Have fun,

Markus

Thanks for the responses, I called sigma service today. They ventured that it might cost about 90 Euros, so I'm still thinking of trying to replace it via eBay with the 50-500 which has HSM. Might be a nice opportunity to do the upgrade...

btw: warranty has long since expired, I bought the lens used in 2002, so there was no chance of a free replacement/repair.

Markus

Just a guess, but on my 10D's viewfinder (with 1/2 stop marks), two arrows means I'm using 1/3 steps and am sort of between two values. Example: 1/3 stop underexposure will light up the neutral and the -1/2 mark.

Could it be - if that is possible with the eos 1 - that you set your camera to 1/2 steps? In that case, it would seem logical that 1/2 step is represented by the 1/3 and 2/3 mark...

Hope this helps,

maf

Hi everybody,

recently, I noticed that the aperture blades in my trusted Sigma

170-500mm 5.0-6.3 would not open after taking a picture with a

stopped-down aperture. Consequently, the next picture taken is

overexposed (but the aperture blades are open afterwards). Pressing

and releasing the dof preview button will sometimes help, sometimes it

only opens the blades about halfway. This only happens with a focal

length of more than approx. 350mm.

Has anybody experienced a similar behavior with this lens or other

zoom lenses? I know it is not a sigma compatibility issue since I use

this lens for more than half a year with my 10D and more than two

years on my 50E/Rebel IIe and the problems only started recently. When

looking inside the barrel (from the lens mount), I see a cable that is

unrolled when the lens is zoomed out and that has a fine white line

orthogonal to the direction in which the zooming motion takes place (I

hope this description is comprehensible...). Could this fissure(?) be

the reason? If so, does anybody know whether (a) Sigma ships the cable

as spare part and (b) they can easily be replaced by a non-technician

(me)?

Thanks in advance,

Markus

According to Canon's press release, the 20D has a reduced noise level at the higher iso's, which might be interesting for the indoor/lowlight situations you describe.

<br>OTOH, a review (<a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/20d-part1.shtml">luminous landscape</a>) of a prerelease model did not find big differences between the two.

<p>As for the other features, it's up to you and depends on your future needs and shooting style as well as your budget...

<p>Have fun,

<br>maf

Well, I'd like to contradict the general opinion in this thread, being an owner of the lens in question. I have taken some festival shots a few weeks ago and am quite satisfied with the results. You can find the (resized) photos at <a href=http://maf.funpic.de>http://maf.funpic.de</a>. I was especially astonished when I did some enlargements from the photo at <a href=http://maf.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=33&showCat=1&expandCat=1>http://maf.funpic.de/photo_show.php?photoId=33&showCat=1&expandCat=1</a> and was able to recognize some friends about three quarter up the hill - okay, they were not that sharp, but nonetheless recognizable. Mail me if you'd like to see some of the unresized shots.

<br>One caveat exists, however: I have noticed that sometimes the autofocus seems to lock on the wrong distance. In this case, I have to release and repress the shutter, then it focuses correctly. While this is a little annoyance, I, having a small budget :-), am happy with this 200EUR lens.

<p>

Have fun,

<p>

maf