jay_miao1

<p>Based on the numbers from a working DP-30 I figured that 3.3v and 12v lines on my finder seem to be fine where the 6K ohms on 3.3v is right. However, pin 1 to 6 for signal control on my finder measured ~0 ohms (short) must be wrong or the culprit. Thank you Marc.</p>

<p>I tried everything it could take me to troubleshoot but without another working DP-30 and/or F5 body handy or the finder schematics hard to tell whether the 3.3V line behaves normal. And yes I did test it without finder attached it's working fine. Another observation is with or without finder attached when I turn on the power switch top LCD display is kind of delayed about couple secs to show values, not instance as most other cameras I have does, is it normal?</p>

<p>Recently acquired a nice F5 however the viewfinder DP-30 is malfunctioning. Browsed the net and found the electronic pinouts definition from 1 to 13 (L to R while holding the camera) as GND in #1, 12V #4 and 3.3V #5 while other 4 pins in left segment for controls. Here's the problem, both 12 and 3.3 volts on the camera body are fine (measured) but as soon as the finder is attached and metering all LCD back light in VF blacked out (never turned on) and battery/voltage drops in few dry shots and camera could hang at end.</p>

<p>I measured each pin of VF using multimeter with respect to GND (1~7 mainly for meter and LCD light control at left while right segment for speedlight) that resistance/impedance btw 5 to 1 for 3.3V is about 6K ohms only (should be much higher compare to 12V in 6M after cap fully charged) and pin 6 to 1 for control is basically 0 ohms or *short* which made me to believe why no LCD back light engaged and batt drained out so quickly.</p>

<p>I'd like to ask someone who owns a working F5 a big favor please that what the resistance btw pin 5 and 6 to 1 (GND) on the VF (not camera body) respectively which might help me to understand as if my DP-30 is the culprit. Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>Golden Gate Bridge San Francisco</p><div></div>

<p>no title for fun ... taken in a beijing park last year</p><div></div>

<p>This photo is taken in Han Dan China this summer, the castle was built two thousand years ago and has been rebuilt or remodeled a few times since then.</p><div></div>

<p>An easy dirty quick fix to try first, use a q-tip and alcohol (Walgreen store type) to rub and clean underneath the feeling area couple times, then press it down and hold for a while to find out. If that doesn't help at all, the contact cements should take care of it.</p>

<p>Alaska ocean captured on the Sapphire Princess cruise trip with D100 and 28-105mm AFD lens, 1/320s F/9. The water looks so pure and deep green, not blue or gray we usually see from the beach, simply beautiful like a marble stone.</p><div></div>

<p>Captured on Sapphire Princess cruise ship during the Alaska trip, taken with D100 and 28-105mm AFD, 1s F10.</p><div></div>

<p>This photo is taken with D100 and 18-35mm AFD lens (<a href="mailto:1/160s@F6.3">1/160s@F6.3</a>) at the rear dock of cruise ship Sapphire Princess to Alaska recently ... it's simply an awesome trip, a total different experience for a vacation.</p><div></div>

<p>the night scene of a pier in downtown Victoria Island Canada, captured with D100 and 28-105mm AFD</p><div></div>

<p>a little "sweet" shop on a corner of a residential building at a busy street intersection in Beijing ... taken with D100 24-85mm AFD, 1/80s F2.8</p><div></div>

<p>I have acquired a RB set sometime ago and replaced all the seals myself from main body to the backs. It is practical and happened all the time from used market including both medium and 35mm systems. However I'm not so sure about RZ as it should be newer than RB. Unless you can trace down any signs to convince that the back has been used or worn out abnormally this "defect" shouldn't be a problem, simply needs a replacement.</p>

<p>The Forbidden City, Beijing, a man-made river for protecting the City where empire lives. Taken with D100 and 24-85mm AFD, <a href="mailto:1/640s@F8">1/640s - F8</a>.</p><div></div>

<p>I'm impressed ... indeed it's not hard to find one like this almost everywhere you could walk by on streets in local Beijing or probably in other cities as well in China.</p><div></div>

<p>this beautiful college girl performed with her brothers in front of crowd at the Fisherman's Wharf on the last memorial day weekend, it's just amazing to watch the youngs practicing solid gym works on the street ... they're so happy and energetic that make people smile and cheer in a sunny San Francisco day.</p><div></div>

<p>musicians in San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf ...</p><div></div>

<p>captured at Pier 39 in San Francisco ...</p><div></div>

<p>Sure Simon. I have experienced exactly the same dull results at beach scene most of time when I used to shoot JPEGs in camera before got into RAWs. In addition, D100 or alike digital models tend to under-expose in general, which is definitely not preferable for beach and snow scenes. So I switched to NEF RAW and sRGB-III color settings, CW metering most of time preferred with about +0.3 to +0.7 compensation in such conditions and used as higher shutter speeds as possible to maintain a good sharpness (generally applied to all kinds of shooting conditions as I learned besides the 1/focal length rule). Sometimes a fill flash added would also help in certain conditions.</p>

<p>Pebbles, I have the same D100 and still use it on a daily basis, so here's what I learnt about a year or two earlier exactly the similar question regarding the outcome ... especially on the beach scene. Then after I received advice and practiced since then I stick with NEF RAW setting with RGBIII all the time and pictures are dramatically improved. I convert NEF to JPEG after home with much better color renditions than direct JPEGs from camera, period. Here's an example that the day at half-moon bay in California was typical - cloudy and foggy which is probably similar to yours posted ... but turned out it's produced a nicely color balanced photo from RAW to JPEG. Don't feel bad, that's how the D100 works and you'll be okay. Keep shooting.</p><div></div>

<p>Taken in downtown San Francisco, the memorial-day weekend.</p><div></div>

<p>Conrad, thank you for "recommending" something yesterday as I see you and other posters are very experienced and I'm not as a lubricant expert. The 728J looks to me a do-able grease comparing to the two that a Nye technical person mentioned to me on the phone yesterday when I called for assistant, the 767A and PG-44A while the 44A is extremely stiff type so I doubt it's suitable for the 55 2.8 and the 767A looks like a suitable one but the "heavy viscosity" caught my cautious comparing to 728J which is of light viscosity type.<br>

As there're hundreds and hundreds of formulas listed from Nye, I just can't simply do any effective comparison to find the right one, so would 728J be much closer to use in this lens than 767A to you?</p>

<p>Conrad, thank you for posting such an informative procedure and I believe I'll benefit from that soon as I do own such a lens in like-new condition as well and would rather repair the stiff problem myself. Couple things in the procedure I noticed after reading:<br>

1) "The gap shown in the middle should be about 0.025" wide." - it seems to me that the gap should be 0.25" instead of 0.025" ... typo?<br>

2) Is there any diff between setting focus mark to 3' instead of infinite after you're performed the work as I though it could probably be easier to align or counting the gap at infinite in general (but may not be true to this lens as I performed infinite check for the 50-135 AIS lens)?<br>

3) Lastly, I've tried to contact Nye to acquire a suitable lubricant. Do you happen to have any information about which exactly the product should be ordered from them?<br>

Thanks again, and it's really a well illustrated instruction.</p>

<p>Lake Tahoe, California</p><div></div>

<p>taken at National Auto Museum in Nevada California ...</p><div></div>