casey mcallister
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Posts posted by casey mcallister
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It's not the camera body that matters...it's the lens and the person behind it that render cherishable images! A good photograhy investment starts with the lens...
Prime lenses are the way to go! However, the 1.6 crop factor is problematic in regards to field of view. I've field tested the Tamron zoom you refer to and was not at ALL impressed as compared to my venerable Tamron 28-75 XR-DI.
The Canon 17-85 IS is a decent walk around lens. Don't expect to win any art shows with this glass! No thoughts on the Sigma other than to say that I've read lots of posts + studies that slam them for bad color and soft image renditions. If I were you I'd get less body and more lens!
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The glass you need is the 70-200L 2.8IS. The two you list will NOT get the job done in a dimly lit church.
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"Lately I have been told by art consultants that the Rebel files aren't good enough to make outstanding 8" x 10" images"
That's just not true. I've gone up to 13 x 19 on this body with a 50mm prime and had OUTSTANDING resolution/detail.
IMHO for 8x10 it the lens that matters, not the sensor size.
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I've both, and the 50mm 1.4 is much better. It's focus is more accurate and it has better contrast. It also renders more pleasing out of focus backgrounds for portrait use. Both lenses need AF assist to nail the shot in low light/contrast conditions...
I've also read blogs that both are not great at being able to obtain infinity focus when compared to the 50mm Macro! Hmmm?
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Closer working distance. A lens of 28mm or less will more than likely have barrel distortion. I shoot events and must frequently go under 28mm on a crop body. With full frame I would rarely have to go below 28mm. For recepetion shooting on my 20d I have to go to 24mm or less a lot, and I don't like the look. Alas since I'm only part time at this, it's hard to justify the extra $ to get a 5D
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Off the wall here...see if you can drive a flatbed 4wd truck onto level sand and plonk a small ladder in the bed of the truck. (Make sure you have 'spotters.' that hold the ladder.) That should get you high enough. On a 1.6 crop you'll need to go very wide with three rows of 8-9 per row for one shot and maybe 13 by two rows for a pano? The working range will be 17-35mm depending on how far away you are. A polarizer might be needed. Theoretically the sun is at your back so the crowd should be well lit. However, given the absense of artificial lighting you may encounter challenging backrounds that may become overexposed. It this happens wait until the sun drops more and then go for it. Use the light/clock to your advantage. Take the 20D...it's a beach party!
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I completly disagree w/ Alan's comment. A 5D with a 16-35 will most definetely beat the 17-55mm f2.8 IS on 350D combo in low light applications.
Reasons:
ISO performace on 5D
Closer working distance
Better optics at corners of frame
Sure the 17-55 has IS, but the reality is that if your subject matter has movement you can't go below tv 1/30 with out getting motion blur, and if it's a still life shot then you can use a tripod...so IS is GENERALLY not very helpful at focal lengths less than 30mm
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Buy a used Elan IIe and shoot film, or do as Charles suggests.
Frankly I miss the excitement of opening up the prints envelope at my local camara store.
It's been replaced with hours of time spent post processing
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You need some fast longer lenses to shoot from the back. The next item for your kit s/b the 70-200 f2.8 VR
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The general rule is to have two of everything. Even though your gig is outside you may want to get a hold of a backup flash. A flash bracket would also make a nice addition to your kit.
I think it's also unconvetional to use a high-end point & shoot as a primary wedding camera. I've never used a DMC-FZ30 before, so it would be unfair to comment on it. However, I will say that about a quarter of my shots are done with a 50 or 85mm portrait prime lenses, and theses optics BLOW the doors off of fixed zoom lenses for speed and pleasing bokeh's (shooting at f2 to f2.8) I've also read that point & shoot's generate a lot of digital noise in low light applications, and don't render very good results at ISO 800+
In a church setting I frquently also use a Cannon 70-200mm L IS to shoot from the back/sides of the ceremony with no flash, TV 1/30, @f2.8-5.6. That might not be possible w/ the DMC-FZ30.
While were on the topic of avaialbe light, get a tripod and wired shutter release...if one is made for the DMC-FZ30.
Inspect the site to plan the shoot.
Since you're somewhat new at this, consider popping some film shots for a different look/feel, and INSURANCE in case something goes wrong with the digital media. I would especially recommend doing this if you's got nice lenses (Primes) for the Pentax!
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Use less flash and more available light when shooting scenes like this. This is precisly why fast lenses are the 'fav' of pro wedding photo journalists.
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IMHO the real answer is the IS lens @ 70mm can be shot hand held at TV 1/30 @2.8
Ergo the versatility of the IS outways the optical advantage...for my applications (Weddings and Events)
I've used it for sports and the auto focus is blistering fast for a zoom tele.
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Read the archives in the wedding section. You'll need fast glass -- f2.8 is routine and a coverage range of 17-200mm for a 1.6 factor is the working range you'll need. There are all kinds of lens combo's that fit the job.
My 'walking wedding' kit is two rigs:
20D + Tamron 28-75 Xr Di f2.8 mounted on a Strobroframe camera flip that's connected with the off camera cord and a 550 EX flash. (I also own the 17-85 EF-S IS for WA apps but will be selling it for better 17-28 coverage.)
300D + 70-200mm f2.8L IS w/a shoe mounted 550 EX flash used to fill shadows.
I also carry the 50 f1.4, and the 85 f1.8 for portraiture. EOS 3 film body for special apps...B+W. The Bogen Manfrutto pistol grip ball head + high speed tripod combo works like a gem for available light situations.
Get a lot of CF storage and shoot RAW!
All of the above was about $5K US.
P.S. You'll also be dropping coin for computer software, data storage drives and disc backups, RAM, and CF Readers...
Now you're at $7K?
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Hi Martin,
You said "I am looking for basically one lens to live on my camera"
I missed the part about what sort of photography you desire to shoot, so it's hard to give the right response!
Can you tell us what you want to take pictures of?
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The Canon EF 75-300mm lens 1:4-5.6 is not fast enough, and needs to be stopped down at least two stops to get decent shots. Use a Canon 70-200 f/2.8 lens plus a 1.4 tele converter. The bummer is that this combo is expensive. Another option would be the 200mm f2 w/ the 1.4TC. Do not get a 2x converter...you may lose Auto Focus and like another poster said you be @F8+ I use the 70-200 f2.8 + 1.4TC and sheet at F4-5.6 at TV250+ and have seen great results.<div>
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There was a defect on 20d grips when they were first releases that caused this error. Maybe you have one from that bad batch?
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I'll explain more. The Tamy did not render red, orange and yellow properly just like all the other inexpensive consumer zooms I've used...
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How about a Rebel 300D 6MP? Does that count? I've printed razor sharp 13x19 portraits with it. The lens is more the issue, and with a fast 50, 85, or 135mm prime you'll not go wrong.
As noted the advantage of the 5D is working distance...
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If you're tired of swapping out lenses then get a 24-105L IS f4
You'll need some more coin, but for now it's the most versatile walkabout around, and it will work with both bodies.
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I bought the Tamron after reading the 'rav' reviews. I returned it after one wedding shoot cause the contrast was not up to par @ f2.8-f5.6
BTW the only zoom I've found under $500 that's contrasty like a prime is the Tamron 28-75 Xr Di
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Get an EOS 3 on eBay.
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Yes it is the f2.5
It costs $240 @ Adorama
Portrait lens recommendation...please.
in Canon EOS Mount
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