wakeforce

Didn't work finally, there is still a shift. I need t go to sleep right now as I have a course at 8 tomorrow, but will post a new screenshot and what my teacher said tomorrow.

I think that's pretty much exactly it, but I'll have to double-check after my retouching of the picture you saw in the screenshot :)

 

It does look much more closer, but will investigate further in a few hours.

Thanks for the answer, but even tough I don't have a colorimeter (which is on my wishlist, don't worry about it...), the colors shouldn't switch like this from capture one to photoshop. It never did before, and should not do this, if the colors were out of wack on my monitor, they would be out of wack equally in capture on and photoshop.

 

As to converting to Srgb for the web, that is very true, it gave me trouble before, but the screenshot I posted doesn't have a profile, so should by default get the srgb profile assigned by your navigator.

 

I'm just wondering why teh colors should switch sor abruptly from C1 to photoshop. I'll be asking the question to my photoshop teacher tomorrow if I see him, but I'd like to arrange this trouble tonight if at all possible.

 

Thanks for the answer tough :)

Bigger printers have bigger droplet sizes, as they are meant for larger prints that will be seen from further away. As such, am 11*14 from a 2400 would be superior to one from a 9800.

I don't understand why my picture changes so much of aspect when going from

capture one to photoshop... All my profiles are matching, but it makes a really

big shift to blue. I also can't change the monitor profile even if I check

unlock monitor profile as it doesn't give me the other profiles I make with

adobe gamma.

 

Anyone knows whats wrong? Here's a screenshot showing the problem. The picture

was just processed from C1 and opened in Photoshop CS2.

 

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/347/colormanagementwx5.jpg

I made a wedge myself to "calibrate" brightness and contrast settings, but I see I can't get away with adobe gamma anymore.

 

Oh well, it's just 250$ more.

Could it be because I am using it with a card that is VGA only?

 

Here is the monitor

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2206384&CatId=170

It is a LG L1952TX BTW.

Hello! Lately my old CRT died on me (became fuzzy for no reason) and I decided

to replace it with an LCD monitor. I am using a dual monitor set-up, and still

have my old (7-8+ yo) CRT besides me.

 

I am very disapointed in the color gamut of this monitor (LG 19inches, priced at

300$ or so) when opening the color picker, there are patches of blue where no

gradient is present, and if I switch the color picker to my old crt the

gradients are very good. It can be seen in dark yellow to black gradients too. I

am wondering if LG monitors are simply cheap or if I got a bad one. Do we really

need to buy these overpriced LaCies to get good color gamut?

 

Thank you very much.

I don't know if I am the only one with this problem, but I bought an LCD monitor around that price, of reputable brand, and I am very disapointed. I guess you have to buy very high end to get good color accuracy and gamut.

You need Quantum flashes with freexwire. Or using a ste2 from canon, but that is 15 feet max. With freexwire it is 1000 feet IIRC

If you want a softbox for continuous light, be prepared to pay up, it is at least double the price of a flash softbox. Why? A standard softbox will take on fire with a continuous light inside!

 

You need a softbox which is fireproof, and has flaps on each side to let heat get out from the top and fresh air enter from the bottom. Silverdomes from photoflex are made like this. As to what continuous lights to use, I'd recommend Tristar or Ianiro, but that's over here in America, I don't know what is available on the other side!

My suggestion would be to use a spotmeter and put the background as even as you can (by placing the lights evenly) with an overexposure of 2 stops over what you are shooting at (for example, if you shoot at f/8, the background with a spotmeter should read f/16). That way, you are barely blasting away the background, and will get less light returning from the background to the subject.

 

If this doesn't work, you have no choice but to get your subject further away from the background. You could also try using black masks on each side of the model, just outside the frame, which would probably lower the light level returning from the background, but I doubt it will have a significant effect.

Hey there. I have an assignement of doing a sunglasses picture, and they must be

on a human. I made some test shots of the sunglasses only for reflections, and

they turned out pretty good; here's an example

 

http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2260qy7.jpg

 

The lighting used is a 580EX aimed directly as a main light, a metz 45 in a

white umbrella as a fill-in light, contrast ratio is 1:4. A polarizer was used

to get rid of most of the reflections, however I'd like some tips on eliminating

these reflections completely.

 

So far so good, the glasses by themselves are ok, but they are wayy too dark

when on the model:

 

(This is my mother, the shot is not the shot of the year, far from that, they

are just some tests to place my lights correctly)

 

http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2277md5.jpg

 

The reflection from the sun doesn't bother me much, but the one from the 580

does. I want to keep it direct tough, to simulate harsh sunlight. I guess the

only option for this one is photoshop. I'm pretty happy that the umbrella

doesn't show, but I'd want to sunglasses to let more of the eye to be seen, from

this position. Any tips for this kind of shot, which will be done in broad

daylight at a beach?

 

Thanks in advance

I am wondering what is the flash duration of a canon 580EX at full power. Anyone

has this information handy?

 

Thanks.

Maybe because they cost more than that to manufacture?

Works well for me! Simply a female hotshoe to PC adapter, with a miniplug to pc adapter, and all works well!

I'd love to know if there is something available too, it would open up a huge range of possibilities.

Thanks for explaining focal plane shutters, I knew they were the problem but I was wondering if there was a way of making the 580EX work in high-speed sync even tough it is not fully connected to the camera. Looks like it isn't, I'll have to think of other ways to do what I want!

First, is it possible? If so, how? I have an x-sync of 1/250 and it is

not enough for shooting outdoor sports during the day.

 

I tried using high-speed sync but I think it only works in manual. So

is there a way to shoot at 1/1000 with a canon 580EX and a set of

pocket wizard plus ?

The last post was VERY informative thank you very much!

Reasonable day rate with transport, I guess around 500$

 

How much for limited web rights per picture? How do I go about writing a contract that includes only limited web rights, is there a template I can use somewhere?

Forgot to add this is all in Canadian Currency

I am currently talking about a small job with a new and emerging

biking company. I met them at a local competition, and they look like

a really positive looking and promising business, but right now, I

guess cash is tight, and I want to create a strong relationship on the

long term with them, I think they can be quite valuable to me.

 

So they really liked the pictures I took at the comp, and asked me if

I could come and visit their shop to take some pictures of it (the

interior), and also take some studio shots of the people that work

there (around 10 or so). The use of the pictures would be their

website, but they have talked about using them in magazines in the

future too, how should I manage this?

 

So having in mind that A. I am not a well known photographer but that

B. I do a good job and have done a few other paying jobs before

 

How much would be a reasonnable price? I'm not looking to do a big

cash shot with this, but I want them to understand photography isn't

free either. I probably will rent around 200-250$ worth of studio

equipment, (but it's going to cost me half because I work at a photo

place), but I will use all my existing equipment for the other stuff.

 

If that takes me around a day, I was thinking in the price range of

600-700$. Would that seem reasonnable?

 

So many questions! Thanks to all the knowledgeable folks around :)

I know I am a non-paying subscriber but since that new ad my homepage will not be the "New Critique Requests" page. I enjoyed seeing other people's work each time I went on the ibnternet, and commenting every once in a while, but that ad is just too annoying.

 

I'm all for advertisement, but when it is too invasive (this ad is even worse than pop-up ads), then it's going over the line.