tore

<p>You find models all around you if you don't live in the Forrest. The key is to ask. not everybody would say yes but I have not met anyone that have been offended. its a great compliment for most girls if someone ask them to model. So were ever you find girls you find people you find models. Go to a café or take a trip with the local bus.</p>

<p>Marks method is of course the best, but the light looks pretty easy and you have already answered your question in the beginning you get the effect with one light above and a reflector in the bottom play with the distance and hight white give you less reflections than the silver side on the reflector than some of them might have got a touch of dodge and burn in the post process. The reflections in the eye is often a good way to see how the light was positioned.</p>

<p>To be honest I don´t know, but my experience is that you can get a lot for free by just asking nicely for it. try a hotel or something similar. My experience is that it´s better to go there and ask than give them a call. Its easier to reject someone on the phone.<br>

Good luck</p>

<p>I have not seen your sample picture, but one "easy" way to get great light on a sunny day. The trick is to "break" the light close to the subject a semi transparent fabric works fine. when the light pass trough something or bounce against something some of the rays will get anew direction this make some light go in to the shadows and give you smooth transition and beautiful light with no flash. and it balance very well with the ambient light.<br>

Take a look at this for some samples and a better explanation.<br>

<a href="http://www.photoflexlightingschool.com/Lighting_Lessons/Outdoor_Portrait_Lessons/Bouncing_and_Diffusing_Light_for_Outdoor_Bridal_Portraits/index.html">http://www.photoflexlightingschool.com/Lighting_Lessons/Outdoor_Portrait_Lessons/Bouncing_and_Diffusing_Light_for_Outdoor_Bridal_Portraits/index.html</a></p>

<p>Have you considered trying Joomla? <a href="http://www.joomla.org/">http://www.joomla.org/</a> it solves the flash problem and when you have built it it is very easy to change and upload pictures. The web hotel can be an issue but if you got one with good Joomla support its a great tool.</p>

<p>Avoid direct sunlight, a reflector is a great tool. if you don't have one you can use a white Styrofoam or something white that is easy to carry with you (an assistant is great to) If you have a flash you can use it as fill flash. Avoid wide angle lenses for portraits. And the most important, have fun!</p>

<p>It not so difficult, but there is many ways to achieve the result. if you try some of the Lynda.com tutorials for light room or photo shop. Especially Chris Orwigs tutorials is good imho.<br>

If you google for free lynda pass you can find ways to be a test member för 1 to 7 days and see if you like it.</p>

<p>I work with elinchrome ranger so I can not help you with any experience from the profoto equipment. but 500 flashes in 80 minuts sound pretty intense to me. If you not under a time pressure for this job, try to work a bit slower. heat is a killer for a lot of electrical components.<br>

Best regards Tore</p>

<p>To things to bare in mind when you compare this shoots.<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=924448" target="_blank">http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=924448</a><br>

The one whit out ND filter is shoot on 85 mm and the one with ND is shoot with 200mm This also effect the DOF(together with the distance to the subject) and the power of an 800 alianbee is a lot more than you can get out of the canon 430. but it the x sync is limited so the ND filter is necessary<br>

But the canon 430 have high speed sync as an option I would work with that and skip the ND filter.I use one when i shooting with studio flash outdoor but I can not see the need with an on camera flash<br>

This is a great movie about shooting with the setup you are going to use.<br>

<a href="http://youtu.be/snd34WNndn0">http://youtu.be/snd34WNndn0</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>It´s your doughier, my suggestion is to do one or more test shootings with her. Go out and try different exposure, the environment you plan to shoot you can try to pot the model in the shadow and the man with the reflector in the sun to get more separation from the environment. Then you can look at the shoots and see what you like the best and hope for the light to be similar on the prom day.<br>

Best regards Tore</p>

<p>This is a great movie explaining some different light setups.<br>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/snapfactory#p/u/126/IdcdWkc7xEI">http://www.youtube.com/user/snapfactory#p/u/126/IdcdWkc7xEI</a><br>

It´s true you don't need a transmitter, but its a great tool to have if you can afford it. especially if you want to start to play with the light on different location having the flash giving you light trough a door from a different room for example.<br>

I don´t think its important what brand you buy, the critical part is that you stay with it to mix different brand can give you color problems, the kelvin is often pretty close but you can get strong variations in the tint. If you buy a sheep set you might afford a light meter too it´s a great tool.</p>

<p>It´s a good one, I agree that the sb600 or bigger is a good choose because It can do more things and give you a better chance to experiment with different light at other sessions. It can be trigged wireless of camera from some of Nikon's cameras.</p>

 

<p>There is a great different in light quality, on the bikini shoot there is less difference between the light and the shadow the light is coming more from the side and it´s less diffused. one like this will get you you closer to the result you want In daylight.<br>

<a href="http://www.sunbounce.com/index.php?id=swatt_the_light0&L=1">http://www.sunbounce.com/index.php?id=swatt_the_light0&L=1</a><br>

For a softer look on digital just buy a bad zoom lens.</p>

<p>Try capture one, from phase one You can downlad a full working 30 days trial here. <a href="http://www.phaseone.com/en/Software.aspx">http://www.phaseone.com/en/Software.aspx</a><br>

Best regards Tore</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The example shoot is made with a flash on the model to underexpose the background a bit and make it feel more saturated.<br>

Jeff is right it´s hevy post processed. If you have photoshop, try to do a mask trough the colour channels go to image /calculations and do a mask with the red channel inverted It will make most of the skin go black in your mask. Now you can play with the saturation in a new layer without efecting the skin too much, but it don´t works if you have a lot of red in the background too.</p>

<p>Do you have a live view camera? put in a HDMI cable too your compute or tv and place it place it where you can see it easily. an other method is to try Capture One you can download and try it free for 30 days <a href="http://www.phaseone.com/en/Downloads.aspx">http://www.phaseone.com/en/Downloads.aspx</a> you can take pictures so they are visible on the computer screen the same moment you push the shutter. nice start so far.</p>

<p>I agree with Mark, check out the Strobist and try to get hold of a camera flash and an umbrella and a stand.<br>

What is your camera brand, Nikon or Canon? Nikon has good off-camera functions to their original. Canon require some extra equipment to run the flash off camera a cable or a transmitter. You can use the TLL control if you got a flash with the same brand as your camera. That is real good if it is in a hurry and you have to shoot quickly and be pretty sure to get it right</p>

<p>It sounds like you overexpose, try the old rule "sunny 16" f16 the same time you have put your iso on test and fine-tune if needed.<br>

The problem of direct sunlight is normaly that the contrast is too high, the sun tends to give good color in the middle of the day if you step down.<br>

check this out, it´s about strobes but some part is about sunlight too.<br>

<a href="

<p>I think it's perfect in the studio, use Capture one so you can see both the image and histogram on screen at the same time, and as mentioned earlier, you see details you can not see the display, set the screen right so the model get a feeling for how her poses will work if she Inexperienced.</p>

<p>The fill flash can often do wonders, you have the opportunity to use it so do it. This helps avoid black eyes and other problems. do you want colour in the sky keep at least 90 degree angle from the sun.<br>

<br />But the exposure can be difficult when you wan white snow and blue sky so it is perhaps better to let the sky "go" if you want to have the snow really white.<br />If there is Bright sunshine keep the models in the shadows from trees or something similar to get better control of the shadows and avoid too harsh contrast.</p>

<p>The postprocess part is described here.<br>

<a href="http://retouchpro.com/tutorials/?m=show&id=209">http://retouchpro.com/tutorials/?m=show&id=209</a><br>

reduce the opacity of the layers a bit to get a nicer look, people with plenty of time tend to use this method instead.<br>

<a href="http://nienna1990.deviantart.com/gallery/#Tutorials">http://nienna1990.deviantart.com/gallery/#Tutorials</a></p>

 

<p>should I be honest, is probably the fastest way to get another camera and try again. <br /><br />If it is not possible, try neat image, you can download a free version of it. <br />You have several different color stick also, you can try to balance them out with the curve in Photoshop or make the image black and white.</p><div></div>

John, to calibrate the screen would be a good idea, the picture looks blue skin in the skintone and blue has the highest rgb value in your post. <br /><br />The recipe for skin in the rgb value is a maximum of Red ® Green (G) is lower, and Blue (B) is the lowest value.

The distance between R and G are often larger than between G and B:

If the G and B come too close to each other you get magenta stick.

If your screen is not good you can always check the numbers to see if it will look right.

<p>the problem is magenta, not red it easy to mix up this too, the oposite channel to magenta is green, change the tint walue in the raw file towards green and it will be nice.<br>

You get that effect when the green and blue walue ar too close in the rgb value</p><div></div>

<p >Use the power of Photoshop, the layer blend mode is great, the mask is critical and I have cheated here to save time but here is the technology for this. make a new layer and place a mask with the colour range and fine adjust it with the brush in details that’s needs it, make a copy of layer and mask and make them non active by clicking on the eye, go back to the layer in the middle switch among the blend mode to the screen if it is not enough make an adjustment in the curves too. go to the layer on top and turn it on.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Select the mask and press Ctrl + I now you have a perfect mask of the opposite from the screen run a blend mode of colour burn on it and increase colour saturation more if necessary. Some times you may want to run Gaussian Blur approximately 0.3% in the mask to avoid sharp lines, make it before you copy the layer for the best result<br /><br />Capture One RAW converters is better, you have a raw file so I can show you. It have some very nice colour masking tools built in</p><div></div>