dmitry_apresian

Brian,

I use 4GB CF for storing RAW files and 2GB SD for storing large JPG as a backup. Works like a charm.

<i>Do you have the Hi noise reduction switched on (C.fn II/2)? This limits the buffer.</i><br>

Thank you very much! That was the problem, plus the fact that I didn't realize that custom functions do not get reset when I revert the camera settings to defaults, so no matter what I did I still had that function on. That was a big "Duh!" moment for me :)

<i>Did you check C.Fn III-17, Limit Continuous Shot Count? (pg 172 in the manual).</i><br>

Yes, I can use this to limit the count to something less than 14, the moment I take it above or disable it it switches back to 14.<br><br>

<i>Are the cards empty and formatted?</i><br>

Yes, formatted in-camera.<br><br>

<i>Did you try clearing all the camera settings (pg. 49)?</i><br>

Yes, several times no difference :(

<i>Are you running the latest firmware?</i><br>

Mine is 1.0.8, I don't know what the latest is.<br><br>

<i>You're not writing to both CF & SD at the same time are you?</i><br>

I did have it set up for both at some point, but then I tried to write just to one and it made no difference. I have a 4GB Extreme IV CF & 2GB Extreme III SD, and I tried writing to both, writing to just one, using CF only, using SD only no difference.

I'm going crazy trying to figure out what is wrong with my camera (or with me).

No matter what settings I try for image size/quality the camera tells me it's

burst capacity is 14 frames. I can tell it to shoot lowest quality Small JPEG

only and it's still 14 frames. I can't figure it out... can anybody tell me what

I might be missing?

<p><i>How can that be? Exif states "Flash On". </i>

<p>EXIF just goes by the fact that the flash is on and sitting on a hot shoe. You can plug in an ST-E2 with no flash at all and EXIF will state that the flash was on. So if the flash didn't fire for whatever reason (not fully charged, etc.) the EXIF will still state "Flash On".

<p>The best way is to use HTML and just make a link: <a href="http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&keycode=2112&fcategoryid=216&modelid=11924">Response to Service Notice</a></p>

<p>Below is the HTML code for the link.<br>

<a href="http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&keycode=2112&fcategoryid=216&modelid=11924">Response to Service Notice</a></p>

Bevan,

the link software allows you additional customization of the camera (not available through normal controls), plus it allows you to download "shooting data" -- information about exposure such as parameters (shutter speed, aperture, compensation, flash, etc.), as well as date/time and a few other ones -- what exactly gets saved in the camera is customizable, too.

<p><i>Make sure the Canon 1.4 TC works with the 180mm macro. I not 100% sure. </i></p>

<p>It does, I used it with a 1.4 TC<br>Also, I would say that since it's autofocus is very slow and hunts a lot, it's less well suited for general photography than the 200mm. It's also almost a stop slower (3.5)</p>

<i>I thought movie film is 24fps and TV 25fps. Old super 8 and 2x8 were 16 and 18 if memory serves me well.</i><br>

Movie (35mm) -- 24fps<br>

TV (PAL) -- 25fps<br>

TV (NTSC) -- 30fps<br>

<p><i>Generally, from now on I will just dial in +2/3 stop compensation and lock the rear dial. Or maybe you guys know any other means of shifting the measured exposure values by +2/3 stop (short of re-calibrating the camera, I do not think it is worth it. It would be cool if one of the custom functions allowed to dial in a permanent +/-compensation...). </i></p>

<p>The simplest would probably be to dial ISO down by 2/3 stop.</p>

<i>Subject: <b>1Ds</b> Munich Panorama w/ 13 TIFF Photos!</i>

<p>

<i>Impressive! What software did you use to stich it together and what DLSR did you take the shots with?</i>

<p>It appears as if he's taken it using Canon 1Ds ;)

Last year Canon had a triple rebate offer that was limited to lenses. I bought three lenses and mailed my rebate. For whatever reason, the rebate company has decided that instead of one of the lenses I had submitted a rebate for some Elan II kit, so they issued double rebate on the other two lenses and sent me a letter saying that I need to send in the correct UPC for the kit. After faxing them a photocopy of the original submission with no kit anywhere near my selection and calling the 800 number to try and straighten things out I received... the double value of the kit rebate. As it had already dragged on for four months, I decided that was good enough.

I also remember a thread started by someone else who also had a similar experience and a few other people joined in.

Also, when I called to complain the person I spoke to knew instantly what I was talking about, which leads me to believe there were a lot of similar complaints -- I didn't have to finish half the sentences. Too bad it didn't help me get the full amount :(

<< I would truely be surprised if your calculations prove to be correct. >>

His calculations are correct. However, I would be truely surprised if he actually receives all that money without the company handling rebates screwing up. Last year I had the same thing with the lenses and triple rebates and came up about $150 short in the rebates. However, I would like to wish everybody taking advantage of the rebates good luck and hope that it works for you.

<p><i>This all becomes irrelevent if you are using any kind of diffusion such as a Stoffen or bouncing off the ceiling of course.

</i></p>

<p>To clarify: unless your 550EX flash is in a head straight on position, the crop factor does not come into effect. If it is, then as other posters have indicated you're wasting some light which has one other drawback not mentioned (in addition to reducing the range of the flash) and that is recharging time.</p>