rmohan

Hello All,

 

I am in the process of making a documentary. This will be my first

attempt. I am taking help of a friend who works for a media company.

He is bringing all the equipment and will shoot the documentary and

edit as well. What kind of contract should I enter even though I

don't have a direct contact with the company? Everything is through

this friend. Trusted he is, yet I don't want to get into any legality

stuff with the company.

 

Thanks in advance.

Rajesh

Here are the details. I am planning on buying a camcorder. I decided to buy GL2. In going through the archives at various communities, I see suggestions to buy a PAL version for its higher resolution and 25fps. I live in US. So I need to be able to get an NTSC output of my shoot as well. When I turned my head towards an editing set-up, I got confused for reasons I stated above. Wherever I shoot, I will be editing in the US. I just wanted to evaluate the extra-burden of getting a PAL camcorder and if its worth the extra cost.

Greetings All,

 

I am slightly confused when I was looking at softwares that convert

PAL to NTSC. It appears that all of them convert (if required) before

editing. Its not mentioned explicitly. Can these softwares convert a

completed project after editing ?

Thanks in advance...

I was taking a more open attitude about it till I saw <A HREF = "http://michaelnicknichols.com/gallery/keepers/7">this</A> picture. Now I am kind of upset to see even that is not even original. But the animal behaviour category was impressive. There were many good pictures.

In general, Indian skin is wheatish and I would say mostly around mid-tone. Ask them to wear their traditional dresses and you could pull off good shots even with an automatic setting. In general the traditional dresses are not black or white but if its an informal setting ask them not to wear black or white. It is common in Indian family to have a somewhat fairer member as well as darker member. In such cases expose for the fairer person. Correct me if I am wrong, it will overexpose the darker person which doesn't look bad at all for an Indian skin. I have used NPZ with good success and in bright sunlight a low contrast film would be fine. If you need to see some examples let me know and I will upload some pictures. Looking at your portfolio, it is evident that you know how to expose skin tones. Aah..I am an Indian myself so I end up doing some informal sessions for my family and friends. I don't do people and if I can do it, it will be a walk in the park for you.

Ronald,

1) 500D + 70-200/2.8 will not degrade your images. In order to be more effective I would suggest an extension tube to this set-up.

2) You can use 550Ex for both the lenses. However, I feel 550EX will be an overkill with 90mm macro. When I use 220E with a 100mm, I find the details on the insects at the loss of background. I have seen my friend use SB-28 with his 100 macro, with some loss of details on the insect but with more light in the background. If you choose to use 550EX, please use a very good diffuser.If you choose to use 220E, then a flash bracket is convenient, but you will have to watch where the flash points and change it every time you change magnification or add accessories like 250D.

3) It is my opinion. I have a 70-200/f4. While it is good for flowers, mammals and maybe larger amphibians but really is not usable for insects esp when they are moving.

4) I have not used 2 flash set-ups. My friend uses it and I don't see an extra-ordinary result to justify the burden.

In a rainforest, on the jungle floor, it is quite crowded. So a two flash set-up will only reveal a crowded background. Try to create a set-up that you are comfortable with. Hope this answers.

I have done numerous macro photography in the rainforests of Southern India. I prefer a 100mm macro with a a small 200E flash on an off-shoe cord and maybe a macro flash bracket. I would throw in a 250D as well for the 100 mm macro. This worked well for me as it is a light set-up and gives you good flexibility, esp there are some unbelievable insects for whom 1:1 is not enough. You will also find that the critters are damn active and quick to the extent that you may have to catch them and try to photograph them in your camp. For macro with flash I prefer using Velvia or Kodak 100VS films. And just a general obeservation if you see any caterpillar, however ugly it may be, take a picture... the flash brings out some neat colors. Also try to take pictures of flowers with flash behind the flower so that you get a back-lit picture. You will be amazed at what you see. Let me know if you need more information. Have a great trip....

I just got this guide. I do more of macro and this year plan to do flowers and hence I thought I'll try this guide. This is not a guide for someone who wants to learn metering(though just following it may result in good pictures). I have had frustrations in certain situations where I have seen the spot meter reading swing at extremes like 1/30 to 1/1000 typically shooting a swan in a bright blue water background. These are situations that happen in the field and the guide provides baseline values for eval metering. I think 20 dollars is dirt cheap to pay for someone's years of experience documenting various light conditions and exposure values. Going by this approach it doesn't matter if u have a canon or nikon when u have some base numbers to start. U can fine tune u'r best exposure. Well, thats my plan when I go shooting macro with flowers. Just FYI ..the guide also had pictures(and exposures) of landscape, mammals, flowers and even a gorrilla.

Phil,

#8) I can handle the database administration for Oracle. I'll commit 2 hrs a week(I can put more hrs but I can't commit now) on one weekday on-site in the evening (if u can help with parking in Boston). I work as a Datawarehouse Architect for a large company near Boston. I am quite familiar with Oracle database. I can offer my data-modeling and dba expertise.

 

Rajesh

rmohan26@yahoo.com

Thanks Sean for the update. I am surprised with your comment about unfriendly atmosphere for photographers. And the permit link is also news to me. I regularly visit this refuge year round and never got stopped. I have set-up tripods with 300 + converters (1.4 and 2x) and the ranger has passed by without even stopping. Maybe I am just lucky or 420mm is still less to catch attention ! That said Sean is right that this place is tough for photographers. You will also contend heavily with birders with their scopes and typically from various bird clubs. While my pictures have been less successful, but the variety of birds spotted are great. This is one of the pit-stops in the east-coast, attracting a large number of migrating warblers, numerous waterbirds and hawks. In spring the refuge may get filled up so u can't get in unless you are early.

When you handhold at about at about f16/f22 assuming a 100mm macro you definitely need a shutter speed of 125. 60 or 90 will do depending on your technique. But you will get a black background and soon you will start disliking your pictures for that. You cannot take an early morning picture with subtle colors and great backgrounds. True for larger subjects like caterpillars, butterflies. So you need a tripod for a macro to be innovative and have a variety. But of course there are times the insects are too fast and you need to handhold. Just as a tip, like the spider above ( great picture ) make sure the background is completely covered by the leaf or flower the bug is sitting on and avoid black backgrounds. I have taken 100 macro + 20mm tube +2x extender handheld with good sharpness, yet I don't leave without tripod, a macro slider. You should add a reflector to the list. You will come back with a variety of pictures that will make you happy and of course a broader portfolio. Good Luck.

Agree with everyone on leaving 300/2.8. You will find the zooms useful esp. in the magic minutes of sunrise and sunsets. That apart like everyone said, you will find interesting wild life and flowers. I went in winter so came back with landscape pictures. With three camera bodies I think you won't miss anything. Have fun..

What a coincidence !! Just this morning I did some experiments at home photographing a cactus. Used 100 EF macro at 1:1 + 20 mm extension + 2x will give around 2 times, 1.4x will give around 1.4 times life size. Then I reversed a 24mm prime with 100 at 1:1 to get 4 times life size. In the last combo the viewfinder was so dark that I am sure its impractical in the field to even attempt it. Just to add I used tripod + velbon slider + off-shoe flash + sensia 2@100. Of course I was reading John Shaw last night. It may be a while before I get them developed, I'll post the results when I get it.

I just made a recent first time trip to Death Valley. I agree with the posters above that you remain close to Las Vegas and try to visit Red Rock, Valley of fire etc. However, if you are really keen to go to Death Valley you can still make it in a day. Its about 150 miles and dump the AAA map. Take blue diamond expressway from I-15 south. When you reach Pahrump, cross the Terrible's town and turn left into Belle Vista Rd. Drive till the end and you will hit Amargosa Jnc(thats bout 80 miles from vegas). Turn right and immediate left into 190. In 120 miles from vegas you enter DV and about 30 miles or so you will be close to tourist spots. You can do badwater, golden canyon, natural bridge, devil's golf course artist's palette in one day, its all in one road within 20 miles and if you have time to spare go to Dante's view. But make sure you are in the desert for sunrise and sunset. Or you can make as 'far as you can go trip too' in that route. I would strongly recommend taking your 35-105 lens and at least a monopod. Sunrise and sunset demand long exposure and shouldn't be missed. Let me know if you need more details. Have fun .. Rajesh

Dan hit right on spot. But let me tell you a real story. In southern India, I have some researcher friends, who, typically walk into the forests, which are wild with elephants, tigers, panthers some bears many boars. Of these, the elephants are the most dangerous followed by boars. In general 2 researchers walk with 3 trackers ( native experts ). Tourists are not allowed to walk. So this friend of mine, who has many wild experiences including an attack by an elephant saved in the last moment, was doing his routine, was walking along a hill and could see a herd of deer grazing way down. He stopped letting everyone go ahead to answer a nature's call ( tree the Man's best friend). His friends who went down had a better view of deers and something alarmed this herd and they started running. Our man saw them running but suddenly they went out of his view while his friends noticed that they are heading towards him. Like Jurassic park, all of a sudden our man is in the middle of a stream of deers running by. He, being well camouflaged himself, held to a tree (his best friend by now). A big adult male deer could easily knock him down and the rest can trample him to death. Lucky for him, other than few close and rough brushes from the deer, he lived to tell the story. Personally, I have been chased twice by elephants on foot and once got surrounded by wild boars, half climbed the tree. Its just that we should remind ourselves that we are a part of Nature and not the other way round. We tresspass, we are responsible for our own lives. Respect and fear is a great combination in the field. Thats how we fix it ... - raj

All the books from David Attenborough give a very good big picture of animal/bird behaviour from across the globe. Excellent story teller. Particularly, the 'Life of Birds' is the most impressive work. Not to miss is the video of these series. http://www.pbs.org/lifeofbirds for his last work.

As sam suggested spot meter (partial metering) is the best way to go. I shoot at 300+1.4 combo with A2. I always spot meter as the bird occupies a very small portion in the frame. Sometimes if the foliage has nice pattern you might very well do silhoutte shots. I have been fairly successful at this. Also read up Arthur Morris-Birds As Art. In one particular page he discusses metering based on bird color(tone) and the background. U might like to read that and tweak u'r exposure with partial metering.

why not have a section like memeber schedules or something ? If I plan to shoot somewhere in the weekend, I can just post saying that I plan to shoot ...on this day at this location. So people can introduce themselves as photonetters. A regional classification might help. Delete past threads to keep the clutter away. And of course keep the tour operators away. Just an idea.

answer to 1). If its for a short period of time (short enough to take good shots or even a season ) I wouldn't worry abt it. It is in the bird's instinct to find new resources. I am not sure of hummingbirds in particular. #2 no answer from me #3. Yes & No. There is an article at Bob Atkins web site http://www.photo.net/photo/nature/owlflash.html. I wouldn't use flash at close range or when a bird is doing precision manouvers. Otherwise using fill in flash or when the bird is resting I have not found any effect in their behaviour.

I think I would check up with the Adirondack Hiking Club in Albany. They have a web-site too www.adk.com. While I have not hiked in the winter, but I definitely drive in that area just after a snow storm. I usually go up on 87N , exit 24 towards Bolton landing. This road

joins 9N toward north to Ticonderoga. A fresh snowstorm really makes this place beautiful. But beware the roads are ups & downs and curvy and are not cleared. Also check just after a bridge you will cross on the road between 87N and 9N at exit 24, a left turn along a stream. Fantastic photo-ops. I have not yet explored the Lake Placid and Keene Valley region for winter hiking and camping. I am sure ADK will be of better help. Happy New Year !

15% of trip expense in camera equipment/films/developing works well

for me. I would definitely choose trip !

check this site out

http://members.xoom.com/masinagudi/sanctuaries.htm

CHeck the weather too. Periyar at this time is fresh after monsoon. You won't see anything. But if you go in Feb/March then you can see a lot of wild animals. If you really want to to photograph an elephant in wild go to Mudumalai/Bandipur. And when I say wild .. its ***wild** . The elephants are particulary aggressive in this area. A mock charge is worth a couple of nights of disturbed sleep. Don't be optimistic about a tiger sighting anywhere. Let me know if you need any particular information esp. in South India. Cheers, Raj

A month back I was hiking in Pack Mohnadnock, NH. At the peak I

spotted a family of garter snakes. The big one with 4 small ones

around it basking nicely in the sun. It was under some dried twigs so

the complete family wasn't visible. While I was able to take close

shots of the little ones as well as of the adult but I could never get

all of them together. The depth of field really screwed me up with

large sections of snake out of focus and just a patch in focus. And

the wider lens(28-80) was too wide. I was using 75-300 and 300/f4 on

EOS A2. Anyone who has experience in shooting snakes in wild, DOF

suggestions, lens tips(if a 100mm macro could have proved useful)

would be useful. Thanks in advance.

I had asked this question at

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000Tlw

 

I never gave feedback and I apologize. Apart from the joy of watching some of the largest mammals I got back with around 60 slides with very few nice ones plus Kodak spoilt my slides by introducing smudges, scratches. I complained to the Qualtiy dept. with samples and is of no use.

 

I took Kodak E200 and used them exclusively. There is more chaos and you should decide if you want to watch whales or take pictures. I used 300/f4 and got close up shots of whale nostrils and fins with Barnacles something different. Changed to 75-300 for most part and got sequences of whale diving in. There is a lot of crowd running from one side to the other as you see whales on either side. I went from Boston. The weather was sunny but at the whale watch point it had become kind of golden overcast and with the lens wide open my shutter speed was reading 1/6000. I took most of the shots at 1/1500 or 1/2000 and I think the pictures came out OK. You might want to use a polarizer. As suggested tripods/monopods are useless, I may suggest shoulder pads to push thru' the crowd. More important choose a good spot where you can move from one side to the other, explore the boat in your p'bly two hour ride before you meet any whales. I think 75-300 is your best choice. THings happen fast so its better you set a safe reading in manual mode and use Av when in doubt switch to Manual. I think a 100 speed would suffice but keep some backup 200 films. I would suggest you use your favorite film. The colors you are dealing are blue/more blue and black. I don't think I can post some of the pictures here but i can send a few of them if you would like to see them. Though late, I thank for the invaluable advice I had got. Best of luck, its a great experience!

I have a book "Insects in flight" in which there is a dedicated chapter on how to shoot flying insects. A lot of techniques was discussed including some custom built circuits for increasing the reaction time. I am trying to find the book, I shall post the details soon.