artie

Check your cable and pc terminal on the lens, you are not getting 100% contact. Has nothing to do with ttl. It is making contact or not. Intermitent firing is significant of poor contact.

Thanks Kevin; but let us eliminate CN, too many variables. Deal with trans to digital only. In the final output who, out of all the manufactures of digital backs, has the closest to film in full colour printing. Closest in resolution, colour saturation, image quality and fidelity to a drum scan vs a digital output. Realize than full colour printing as in Mag repro does not have the contrast range of a colour print. Big difference.

Anyone have any real experience (not catalog quotes) with digital

backs.

Who has the best, Leaf Scitex, Kodak DCS, Sinar, Phase One, Carnival,

mega Vision, Better light. Some of the manufactures are offering

from CCD to Cmos designs and anywhere from 2kx2k to up to 4kx4k and

Phase one claims 7kx7k on one of there models. All companies are

offering one shot and one shot to 4 shot like the Leaf Cantare XY.

Any info would be appreciated.

To Kornelius;

Am I correct in assuming this flatness problem is only a problem at wide open apertures.

look into the Creo-Scitex digital back available for med or lge format. It's distributed by Sinar Bron. Especially the Leaf Cantare XY pretty impressive back.

It's quite easily the best there is right now on the market.

2 minutes 50 sec @45,333 bps.

James; It's not a simple remark but rather a belief that if it isn't

LF "it Isn't".

 

<p>

 

I shoot 8x10, 4x5, 6x6 and even 35mm. They all have their uses.

 

<p>

 

The comment I found offensive in only that it hinted that the only

real photo is accomlished by LF.

 

<p>

 

I'm trully sorry if I offended you; not my intention. It was a

reaction to the myth only.

 

<p>

 

My humble appoligies for treading on unstable waters and a future

response, if any, will be cognicent of the fact that others are

sensitive to the realization of the real world and any reactions to

it.

 

<p>

 

I stand chastised and sincerly apathetic to any real concerns to my

original response.

 

<p>

 

Any Real Pro will admit to the fact that the end justifies the means.

Well charlie you made the remark & what an anal remark it was. MF

has it's uses as well as each other format; but I guess because you

have a LF camera you're a real photographer.

 

<p>

 

Reread sentence #1.

 

<p>

 

Guess your out there looking for AA tripod holes too.

 

<p>

 

Each format has a usage and your comment shows your lack of knowledge

and obvious lack of experience.

 

<p>

 

Bear in mind that I'm not attacking you, only you're comment.

AS=constant firing with your finger on the release with mirror up

A =constant firing with your finger on the release with mirror return

O =single fire

S =single fire mirror up and it returns mirror down after exposure

RS=single fire mirror stays up

 

the controls on motor

L=lock

O=shoot

T=time exposure

There is a large difference in optical quality between the older 50CF and the 50CF FlE (floating Lens Elements).

The CF lenses need to be manually stopped down on the 200 series as there are no electronic contacts on the CF lenses, this would also limit the use of the auto features on the 200 series bodies using a CF series lens (auto operation, etc). Consider the 500 series with the CF lenses; basically unstoppable machines with outstanding optics and no need for batteries. Flash sync, as stated by the previous poster, is up to the 1/500 sec on the CF lens. Using the 200 series bodies with their lens counterpart will only sync up to 1/90.

Well it can't work for Travel because it suggests traveling to light

and most companies would object to that.

Lifestyle- posible; "we are what we eat".

Editorial can work; also Forensic is another viable alternative.

Fashion-Particularly makeup as "less is More"

Glamour-You can't possibly wear less than this.

Edward that third one does it for me. IMO but this is a subjective

thing. I, however do like it this way very much.

To make a statement that quality is there but reliablilty isn't suggests that the operator doen't know how to use the camera. Blads in operation for years, 6 days a week and many hours a day and never been in for service or even a cla. If you can't use the machne don't but don't blame it on the machine. Still the most reliable, best piece of equipment on the market. If you use equipment properly than it will work if you take a pic a month and don't know what you are doing than I'm sure you can also make a fork malfunction. Use Blads, Sinar and Arca Swiss the good stuff works the bad operators can screw up anything

The vignetting only occurs in the view finder Chijade not on film. With the 120 very slight, with extension tubes added, more so.

No Roland, I don't work for B&H, I just thought that the information supplied should be equaled, example warranty and freebies. I Buy from Sweden direct and save aprox 25% through a dealer in the caribbean, 3 bodies, 6 lens 5 backs and a ton of other stuff. I also live in the islands since 93 I am well aware of the price differences, I also travel up to B&H every three months for stock supplies or have them shipped directly to me.

Sorry about the typo but my response should have read "on the overseas markets you do NOT have the same offerings"

It's not B&H that sets the prices on those brand names mentioned. Example Hasselblad usa. Prices overseas on blads are 25% less than in USA but it's with one yr warranty and no freebies like free back or free prism. In order for the USA distributer to offer these deals the prices are infladed (read lower discounts). On the overseas markets you do have the same offerings. so actually if you needed the free back or the prism, do the math, it might wind up being close to the same price.

Sounds like you'd be better off direct digital. Using a Sinar p2 or

x and a leaf digital back. Check out the sinar web site

www.sinarbron.com

You can stack tubes with out a problem. The trick is to mount one tube at a time to the camera making sure each is cocked and goes on with a click. Add the lens last. When you remove never take all off at once. Remove the lens first than each tube. Usually if stacking tubes, it is easier to put the 8mm tube after another. Ex. mount the 16mm to the body than add the 8mm and than the lens. the instructions are quite clear in the manuals; I've been stacking tubes for years on a 553elx or my 500cm and never run into a problem with any of the lens.40mm, 50mm, 80mm, 120mm 180mm 250mm.

you shouldn't either.

Tony

Where I currently reside, Barbados, Hassie stuff can be purchased 20 to 25% cheaper than B&H's best prices. You need your passport and return airline ticket to buy duty free. Of course if you don't buy dutyfree than you pay 180% duty. The goods come from Sweden so your warranty is only one year and there are no freebies like offered in the States. You have to figure out; is it cheaper to cherry pick the stuff you need or is it to your advantage to take the free offers that Hassie USA gives.

In other words some of the hassie promotions offer a free prism or free back; you can't get that here so you need to do the calculations. Than figure in the price of the airline ticket, Hotel room and food for a couple of days. You cannot mail order from these places.

Happy hunting.

Ralf, Are you sure that the special offer you responded to was from your country? I make this statement because a lot of the Hassy specials are from Hasselblad USA and not the main co. in Sweden. When I purchase directly from Sweden I get the equipment for roughly 25% less than NYC prices. This does have a lot to do with import duties but I do know that the USA freebies are not available through Sweden. Possibly the ad you responded to was from a usa dealer but Hasselblad usa will not ship out of the US unless it's a minor repair part.

I hope this info is able to clear up this issue for you or at least shed some light on it.

New the stuff would be about $6 -$7000.00 US. The 150 is an older lens but if it's clean it's ok. 500cm were replaced by 501 and 503 but the 500cm is a workhorse. On the 500cm with lens over 100mm there is slight image vignetting in the viewfinder only. Easy to get used to. Make sure the film back serial numbers match. The case of the film back should have the same serial number as the insert. Usually the insert will have only the last three digits. So if the last three digits don't match that will be a problem. $2400. US is definitly a great deal if it all works. BUY IT>

THats the way to do it.

Can't tell you about the Cb but the 120 macro is absolutely fantastic. Edge to edge , color and etc he lens is incrediable.. worth the couple of grand it costs. Portraits, products, whatever the lens screams. I currently own 7 Hassie lens, this lens has become a favorite. Buy it