jim_gross

Bigger Icons means slower speed and updates like 3 to 7sec.

After you sign in you cannot just go to Wildlife you have to select "Browse by Categories" then after the screen loads (5 sec ) then go to the bottom for Wildlife. A slow way of doing things. This is also true of you are on a members page and what to return to a category. The new site needs more work to be as friendly and fast as the old site.

<p>It looks like you are thinking of replacing a kit lens with an L that’s ok but at 17mm you have a 27mm equivalent lens not a wide angel.<br>

If you would like wide angel then you only have one choice 10-22mm. That is 16-35mm equivalent. I have both 10-22mm on the 30D and 17-40mm on the 5D II. I shoot landscape and they are on the camera 90% of the time.<br>

Jim</p>

<p>You do not need to start with a L-plate. I started with the Wimberley P-5 Universal camera plate.<br>

<a href="http://www.tripodhead.com/products/camera-body-main.cfm">http://www.tripodhead.com/products/camera-body-main.cfm</a><br>

The plate works will an the RRS BH-40 Ballhead. </p>

<p>The P-5 works on most cameras and I have never had it slip.<br>

The only problem with a L-plate it is for one camera</p>

<p >CS3 only supports Camera Raw rev 4.6 and this rev is not working right with the 5DMKII .CR2 files. To get full support of the 5DMKII you need Photoshop CS4 (or Lightroom) Camera Raw rev 5.3. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jim </p>

<p>Miles<br>

You need a new ver of Camra RAW from Adobe.<br>

Go to there web side and find and load the news ver for CS4 and it will fix the problem.<br>

Jim</p>

<p> </p>

<p >Luke --</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I do mostly landscape photography.</p>

<p >I carry a Canon 10-22mm (70%), 24-105mm(25%) and a 100-400mm(5%) for my 30D.</p>

<p >The percentage is the time on camera in the field for each lens.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I hope this helps</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jim </p>

<p > </p>

<p > </p>

<p >1. Make an Action to put the text in the photo. </p>

<p >You may have to make two actions one for portrait and the other for landscape. </p>

<p >2. Then make a Droplet for the action. </p>

<p >3. Make a copy of the photo you are going to use the droplet on. </p>

<p >4. With the droplet in a subdirectory, drop the photos on the droplet icon and the action will be executed. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Hope this helps. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jim</p>

<p >Rod</p>

<p > </p>

<p >You may have the always open JPEG in camera RAW set.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >In Bridge CS3 --</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Go to "Edit - Camera Raw Preferences"</p>

<p >Then Uncheck the box "Always open JPEG files with settings using Camera Raw"</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Hope this helps</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jim</p>

<p >JC</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Looking at the spec. on the 5DII -- </p>

<p >" JPEG = 78 Frames ( 310 with UFMA card)" </p>

<p >"RAW : 13 frames"</p>

<p >Are you saying you tested and only got a one frame improvement in RAW?</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jim</p>

<p >Bob --</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I was hoping the UDMA cards were backward compatible. Sandisk has a good price on 8G cards and I was going to invest in the UDMA card so I would be ready if I get a 50D or 5D. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >We all like to dream.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Thanks,</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jim</p>

<p >I have a 30D and I know it will not support UDMA, but I was told that a UDMA compact flash card would work in the 30D, but at the slower speeds. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >The same person also said that a UDMA card would work in a non-UDMA card reader, but again it would be slow. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Has someone tried a UDMA card in a non-UDMA camera and will it work? </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jim</p>

As stated bridge is a browser, it is used to find the photo you would like to work on and loading it to CS3. Lightroom is a browser and a work area combined.

Note, both CS3 and Lightroom use the same RAW engine.

Also note that Lightroom is database driven and it makes additional folders on you hard drive to keep track of the status of files. I do not know about you but 3 to 5 additional folders in every folder is over kill. I found no advantages to Lightroom over CS3. As for keeping the original file, all you need to do is add one layer and you will automatically end up with a .psd file so your original is safe.

Jim

Side note:

Try setting RAW+JPG and set B&W mode.

On my 30D I get a B&W JPG and a full color RAW.

This is nice if you would like to review your B&W but still have color. I would think this would be the same on the 40D and the XTi's.

Jim

Andy

Thank you for giving me a good kick in the ---.

I knew that the big wheel on the back sets the exposure, but in my panic I missed the point that I needed to 1/2 press the shutter button. I had been using manual the other day and I must have inadvertently placed it on Av mode and moved the wheel.

Thanks again

Jim

Has anyone had an issue with the 30D underexposing by 2 stops (-2)? I looked

back at several weeks of shots and found that this problem has turned on and

off at least three times in the last two weeks. Now it will not stop

underexposing.

Observations:

1. This is only happening in P, Tv, Av modes and the exposure display is

showing -2 not 0.

2. In Photoshop, the bad images look underexposed and shows a -2. ex: 1/15s at

F/4.0 -2, ISO 100.

3. The green mode looks properly exposed and Photoshop does not show the -2.

4. In the M mode, the exposure display is working and if set to 0, the photo is

properly exposed and Photoshop does not show the -2.

Tried a cold reboot by waiting 10min with no battery in camera and then

replacing battery. This did not fix the problem. Going to try cold reboot after

1 hour but do not have any faith this will fix it either.

Looks like a trip to Canon to me.

Is there something I may have missed?

Jim

I have cut off a Cokin P holder to one filter depth.

On a Canon 10-22 I take off the UV filter and put the cut off Cokin P holder on and I do not see any vignetting on my 30D.

By the way this also works on a Canon 17-40 with a Film Elan 7.

Hope this helps.

Jim

I started with the 2031Bpro with the 488RC2 and it is a very good combination.

If weight is an issue you may what to try the Bogen 055MF3 tripod.

I use it all the time when I am hiking.

Jim

Just before I started to read Photo.net I started to back up a 5.75Mb sub-directory. I use Roxio Creator Classic (6.2.0) and it told me I would be using two DVDs and asked if I wanted to continue. It is making the backup as I type this.

I do not use the drag and drop. I launch Creator Classic and drag the files and/or sub-directory to the work area of Creator Classic.

Hope this helps.

Jim

I started with the 3021 and the 486RC2 combination. I think you would be happier with the 486 as it has the pan. Also if you have the funds for the 055 it has all the same fetchers and it is lighter if you will be hiking.

Jim

I have the BH-40 with 055 Bogen lags.

No problem with the 100-400 or a 100 macro with collar.

I do have a problem with the pan knob.

It is little and sets low on the head.

I am spoiled by my old 488RC2 with the big pan knob.

Jim

Bob

The minimum is USB2 and DVD writer.

I like the older 1024 x 768 screen so I got a 15" not a 15.4" screen. In this way a portrait photo is bigger then on a 15.4 screen.

Note: I always make two DVDs as backup.

I have both the Manfrotto/Bogen 3021Bpro and the 055. I like the lever clamps on all the Bogen tripods. If you can hold the tripod so it will not fall then you can move a lag with one hand. Sometimes as I walk alone, I will move the lags. Pop the clamp move the lag close the clamp.

If you can go with the 055.

Jim

If you are using the Thick Media in the front path the min size is 8x10. Also you will need to select the Manual-Front in the Epson properties menu.

Jim

I have the BH40 with the lever clamp on one tripod and the standard lever clamp on my old Boden 488 head. The lever clamp for the BH40 is smaller then the standard lever clamp. But both hold the camera or lens.

I have been using it with a RRS camera plate but all my lens plates are Wimberley and they work fine. I have also used the Wimberley P5 camera plate and had no problem.

Hope this helps

Jim

I have a Epson R2400 and had been printing using Epson Easy Print

that came with the printer. In the last four days I have started

printing using PS CS2 and the printer profiles for each of the Epson

papers. All was going will as I printed test sheets with the same

photo and different papers. The photo was a purple flower with a dark

green with purple (out of focus) background. My screen is not

calibrated but each of the printouts looks very much like the screen.

Today I was using a different photo and just before I printed it

using "Print with Preview � " I could see that it was not like the

screen. The photo is also a purple flower but only a green

background. Now the photo printed showed the green as a very light

green almost a green/yellow. Because I could see this before I

printed I tried some different paper selections and you could see the

light green on all papers. I also tried to assign the profile to the

photo but the photo only got darker in the monitor.

I was printing with color handling = Let Photoshop Determine Color

and the Paper Profile = Paper I was using.

1. Why would one photo lightrn up and another very similar stay the

same?

2. How can I tell if a photo will lighten or maybe even darken?

3. Is there some other area that I need to setup?

Jim