rafikrkamel

All my photos are gone again. I tried looking a lot but cannot find them. Anyone can help please? 

THanks a lot

Ok, take the time you need. You just made me feel a lot better :)

When i click galleries, i just get a shutter that keeps rotating forever and i get nothing.

 

Thanks a lot.

Hi everyone,

I have been on PN since 2003, but have not been very active for the past several years. Until recently i could see all the photos in my portfolio. Today i am trying to find them but they are all gone. My profile is still there but just as a placeholder, all photos are gone. Comments on the portfolio are still there though.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks

no the raynox is mounted on top of the lens filter, check the photos is my portfolio, the details it rendered are greatttt for the price tag, know what i mean?

 

regards,

 

Rafik

Well John, i ll assume that you are addressing that response to me. Well, i havent read that book or any books related to photography, but i have taken macro shots with my adapter (and i humbly think that are good); and the more you zoom in the more magnification increases. MY suggestion i beleive is the cheapest by far, and the difference in quality (assuming you have a decent technique) is not that mind blowing).

 

Regards,

Get a raynox macro adapter for $40 only! All the macros in my portfolio are taken with it, it gives even more than 1:1 depending on the focal length of your lens.

 

Regards,

I think what matters in AF speed when shooting moving subjects is the number of cross sensors u have on board versus linear ones that dont process the data about the moving subject fast enough.

Nikon D70s which i have has only 1 cross while the Mark III as far as i remember has 19 cross sensors!!!

I think that makes a difference in shooting moving subjects.

Hi roy, i have recently started using the raynox m-250 adapter, this is a link to the shots taken if u want to have a look, but my technique is not the best i still need to work on it:

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=342803

 

check the first 6 shots in the link they r shot with it.

 

to tell u the truth it works better than i expected, it is only for 40 dolars, the price of a uv filter. i am using it on a nikon 70-300 G VR Nikon lens. i dont think u would get good results on a wide angle because the magnifying glass is concentrated at teh center and the edges are a plastic frame, so u ll have severe vignetting when used with a wide angle lens (though i have never tried it on a wideangle).

 

hope that helps and let me know if u need any more questions on that nice raynox piece.

regards,

Rafik

It is the way it is supposed to be, it tells u how many shots u have left in ur buffer, given the settings of image quality you have selected from the custom setting menu.

Rafik

thanks gerald n tom, tom i havent tested it thoroughly yet. just played around with it. tommorow or after i ll do some sharpness tests from a tripod (using vr on and off) n put the af speed into the test, then i ll let u know, deal?

 

by the way i am getting it mainly for birds, what will u use it for?

Rafik

Hello everyone,

 

I just got the 70-300 VR 2 days ago, and would like to inquire about something

regarding the operation of the VR itself.

 

when the VR is turned on, it takes like 3-4 seconds from when it starting

humming (when the vr kicks in) until it stops that humming. even though i can

see that the picture has stabilized in the viewfinder from like a second after

it kicks in and i can take the shot. my question is this time span normal for

the vr to kick in? or not?

 

please let me know, and if u need any more explanations please let me know,,

 

Thank u.

Rafik

i like to have the flexibility of the monopod, plus i would use it for insects too, so i need more flexibility.

 

rafik

thx both for your reply, but marcus, i need more flexibility when shooting birds from a hide it is not just up and down movements, that is the point.

plus from what i know i dont have to lock the ball head i can leave it in almost locked position, so that i can still move it without having to lock it, know what i mean?

i checked the swivel head u mentioned its movement is very restricting that is why i decided to try a ballhead.

thx again

rafik

Hello everyone. please let me know what do u think of this ball head? i intend

to use it with a bogen monopod for shooting birds and shooting insects.

 

please let me know how user freindly is it in the field? and does it provide

enough support for a camera?

 

i intend to use it with my 70-300vr and later on with the sigma 80-400 OS (when

i buy it).

 

thanks everyone

 

Rafik

Hi joel, i have the d70s, and i transfer the photos from it to the computer without the software that came with the camera. I just let the computer read it as a removable drive, like a flash stick exactly.

by the way i shoot raw+jpegs all the time, and the computer always reads the camera as a removable drive.

 

IS everything ok with the PC usb port? did u try hooking up other devices to it recently? Pc's go crazy sometimes.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Rafik Kamel

Hi Bj�rn, first i would humbly add that the option mentioned by some people here which is using manual flash will take a lot of trial and error from your side in order to master the right degree of light.

 

Here is what i would d if i were in your place:

 

1. i beleive that hide has many vents, so try relocating the feeders to somewhere where u can get some light. light makes a lot of difference in photos, flash is meant to fill the missing parts on the bird not just to LIGHT the scene, i am sure u know what i mean.

 

2. If u have birds scared of flash, i myself tend to use it at the end, i fire like 10-15 shots without flash and at the end a couple with flash then the bird flies away.

 

3. i beleive u r not too close to use flash successfully, u can refer to Angel puildo Dominguez, he is a master in still bird shots with multiple flashes. he shares his technique on his portfolio.

 

hope that helps and feel free if u want to ask anything, i would be glad to helps,

regards, Rafik Kamel

Hi pepe, first it would behelopful if you tried your expermient again with matrix metering instead of center weighted.

 

i would sgree about what someone said above that you could be using EV with like -3 value. i just tried it on my d70s now, i dialed the ev to -3 in A mode and then when i shifted to auto the ev value just dissappeared.

 

also check the mode of the flash u r using in both modes.

hope that helps,

 

Rafik Kamel

With all due respect Juan,

"The easiest way to photography flying birds is setting your D80 to sports mode" i would not go for that mode simply because you dont control the aperture in that mode (as far as i remember). So that way u ll shoot wide open and the shots will come out very soft because the lenses we are talking about here give very soft results wide open.

I would rather stop it one notch down and go for a higher iso.

hope that helps,

thanks for your time

Rafik

Hi toby,

First i would recomment a tele photo like 300mm, but it has to be something that focuses internally (like the 18-70 u have).

For focusing mode, here is what i do with my D70s:

1. AF-c Which tracks

2. Pick the center focus area as this is usually the only cross type sensor on board and usually the strongest among all the af sensors.

3. I also pick something called dynamic area, which means if the subject leaves the center focus, the af system would still detect it somehow from other inactive sensors.

 

i crop afterwards coz i always use the center af sensor for 2 reasons:

center sensor is strongest plus the center of the lens s usually the sharpest in quality unless u r shooting with a 4-5K telephoto.

hope that helps,

Rafik

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Tim of the top of my head i would say the D80 would be in the range of 50,000 maybe more and the D200 around 100,000. these are very very rough figures. i have read a person with a D70 here on PN made 570,000 cycles on it!

I have the G version louis, and i was able after some tweaking to get results from it. It is a good value for money, but af is slow like a tortoise:)

 

I am waiting now for the new 70-300mm VR Nikon.

 

IF u want have a look at my portfolio, all nature and bird shots were taken with that cheap G lens.

 

Regards, RK!

I have a simple suggestion, and i dont know if any one has introduced it so far. I know that this rating topic is one that dwells in all of our minds, so i suggest this:

Make the rating process SO HARD so that it will deter the unseriuos rater. For instance, have like 5 criteria (asthetics, originality, DOF, ...) rated and beside each one have a space for the rater to fill an explanation for why the user doing the rating choose a specific value.

 

I know it seems a bit naive, but in a sense it would be like a form u fill over the net and because they are asking for too much information, u ll just leave it and close the browser:) hopefully only the unseriuos raters will be the ones closing the browser.

 

Hope that makes any sense:)

 

regards,

 

Rafik Kamel

Hi amy, i am from Egypt, and would like to tell you that February would be a nice time to come> It hardly rains here (like 5-10 times) a year and that is about it. Otherwise, the wheather is sort of warm.

About the lens question i agree with Nikos you have to tell the specific purpose of your shooting.

 

Thanks and hope that helps, regards, RK!

Hello Ken,

I have a D70s, have had it for almost a year and a half now, i have the following lenses:

- 70-300mm cheap G lens

- 18-70mm AFS

- 50mm f/1.8

these are the lenses i can give you feedback on, if you want to write me at any time later on.

 

First i would recommend if you are always on the move and need something light to get the 18-200mm VR lens. This will save you the headache of having to change lenses every now and then, and you will benefit from VR at the wide and the meduim telephoto end. The problem with this lens is that it is a bit pricey (because of the VR feature) But if you want to go further than 200mm i would recommend the 70-300mm VR (which is the lens i am waiting for myself to be available at B & H), if it is expensive for you, you can opt for the sigma or the cheaper nikon G that i have.

 

Another option (if u dont need much resolution) is to go for a D70s (very cheap now) or for a D80 and use the balance of your money buying a few nice lenses like the ones i have mentioned earlier (18-200mm VR and/or 70-300mm VR).

 

The site you are looking for i beleive is www.keh.com

 

hope that helps Ken,

have a good day

Rafik Kamel