jae_myung_shim

I wish I could tell you. Back when I was shooting with a RTS II I lusted after a RTS III, but it never happened....

If you still shoot film and still have the lens(es), it's not late I guess;)

Currently bought a used Contax RTS III and I wonder if this is normal: there is this secondary reflection on the bottom of the viewfinder. It doesn't affect shooting but very annoying and I haven't encountered such a problem with other SLR cameras.

Vick, thanks for your fast comment. It is helpful.

Hi,

 

I have Nikon F2 with the standard DE-1 prism. When I detach the

finder and shake it it's like something inside is loose and makes

some rattling sound. I've been aware of this but thought this is just

the way it is. Then this morning one of my friends played with my F2

and said something is wrong with it. He said glass inside the finder

is not tightly fixed and it should affect focusing.

 

I just like to hear some second opinion as to if what my friend said

is correct. If so I have to have it repaired.

 

Thanks and have a good day.

Who's making these lenses? Contax, Yashica, Cosina..?

Thanks for the link. It is informative... and I agree that it takes "sharp" pictures.

I see. I know someone whose GA645 is also set to 45 in the same situation. So there seems to be a variance. And it's confusing.

Thanks Ross. Yes, I asked this question because of the discrepancy between the manual's and my camera's shutter speed. Then what does this mean? Is the manual wrong? Or are there different versions of Fuji GA645? Anyway I'm glad to learn my 645 isn't malfunctioning.

Michael, thanks for your response.

Hi,

With the flash bar raised, and at the P-mode, the shutter speed is

supposed to be set at 45, right? But my Fuji GA645 gives 30 instead

of 45. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks.

Hi,

 

I acquired a MF-16 back for my FM2 today. Without the instruction

booklet, I assume that in order to imprint date on the pictures I

should press "print" button on the left side of the back so that

the "print" sign flashes on the LCD window . The fact is, I want the

date to show up on my pictures "all the time".

 

My question is, do you leave the print sign flashing all the time?

Or, do you press the button whenever you take a picture? The first

option doesn't seem to be a good one due to battery consumption, (or

doesn't it matter?) and the second option seems very cumbersome.

 

I'd appreciate your comments.

Hi,

 

It may not sound sensible, but am still curious.

 

Can AF speed get slower as the lens ages or usually it doesn't

matter? I bought a used AF Nikkor 35/2 (non D) and it seems to focus

tad slow.

 

Thank for your comments in advance.

Thank you all for your comments. I appreciate it.

Hello, I read somewhere the focusing problem of Hexar RF with Leica M

lenses was fixed in the factory so the later serail number Hexar

bodies don't have this problem anymore (although I have no idea what

it means by later serial numbers). Could anyone confirm this

statement? Thanks.

Dennis, thanks. That's a great timing too. It seems puppies were one of the major subjects in Erwitt's photography.

Hi Dennis,

 

I am not aware of the photo you are referring to and I'd like to see it if I know where... I google searched for it and found a couple dozens of Erwitt's photos but not the one you're mentioning.

 

Hello Monkey C,

 

Thank you for making the direct link. I didn't know (and still don't) how to do it..

This picture is not taken by me but by one of the leicaclub.net

fellows in Korea. I just thought it is a good one and want to share

it here... Below is the link.

 

http://leicaclub.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=56230&sort=1&page=1

I beg to differ from the above comment. Based on my experience, 50/1.4 is better than 50/1.8 image quality wise. I think the latter is spoken highly mostly due to its cost-benefit ratio. I have never used them on digital body and my experience is limited to film, though.

 

I agree that they have harsh unfocused areas, and think that's a major weakness of Nikkor 50mm's.

>>>>With single contact, non-TTL cameras the flash trigger voltage is contained within the synch circuit. With TTL cameras, there are other contacts for the flash control that are connected with ICs.

 

Isn't another way of saying it that a flash whose shoe has single contact point is OK with TTL cameras no matter what its trigger voltage is because with such a flash there is only one contact between camera and flash (and therefore the trigger voltage is contained within the synch circuit)?

Hmm.. in one of the threads below, there is a mentioning about flash voltage and camera ... It seems that one just cannot use any flash. But the problem is how do you know certain flash is compatible/incompatible with your camera?

 

Thomas, sorry that I'm not answering your question but adding my own question.

>>>>can I use it without destroing my Leica M6 TTL

 

How does using a flash destroy a camera? I read somewhere that high voltage of flash can affect electric system of the camera. Are you referring to that? By the way, is this "high voltage" thing true?

I wanted to buy his focusing screen and talked with him on the phone a couple of weeks ago. He said his mother had a traffic accident, but didn't mention about his own health. He just sounded fine.

 

By the way, since I installed the new screen it's much more fun to use my old Rollei TLR.

Thank you all for the responses. It is good to know that I have only to turn it off at the end of the day.

 

The reason why I traded the camera was the absence of built-in meter in M3. Although I have used hand held meter and most times it worked with no problem, I haven't been totally confident with the accuracy of exposure. For instance, I never tried slide film with my M3. (In fact, I wonder if anyone shoots slide film with M3 (or M2 or M4, for that matter) with consistent results.) And it took many years for me to decide to go for more error proof M system.

Hi, I just picked up a used M6 ttl and got these questions. They

must have been asked here before, and please allow me ...

 

Does the shutter dial have be set at "off" when the camera is not in

use? Or will it keep eating battery? I've used M3 for over ten years

which I traded in for this M6, and being used to it, that I have to

turn the dial back and forth everytime I use it is quite cumbersome.

 

Also, I found that even at the "off" postion the shutter triggers.

At what speed does it do that?

 

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on these questions in advance.

Thank you all for the comments.