leo_djiwatampu
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Posts posted by leo_djiwatampu
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Matthew,
Did you mean that although its rated Bargain it still looks great?
Leo
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forgive my ignorance (again), but what is backfocus?
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forgive my ignorance, but what is pantone huey and why do you need it? is this a screen colorimeter/calibrator?
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hi Michael...
i will be using the camera for portraits and wedding. Well isn't that what most Fuji owners use for? for natural skin color rendering.
yes i do notice that on b&h. i check almost everyday on jan and feb. the annoucement says: will approximately arive in Feb. Then I checked on mar 1st or 2nd. b&h says: out of stock. wow! this reminds me of D200 when it was first launched.
Leo
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<p>Well, like some of you, I was excited about S5's launch. That is until I
read this review:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.digitalcamerainfo.com/content/Fujifilm-FinePix-S5-Pro-
First-Impressions-Review/Overall-
Impressions.htm">http://www.digitalcamerainfo.com/content/Fujifilm-FinePix-S5-
Pro-First-Impressions-Review/Overall-Impressions.htm</a></p>
<p>S5 is still slow...
<br>d*rn it...!!</p>
<p>But Fuji's official site claimed that it can go up to 3 frames/sec
(depending on your setting, such as the Dynamic Range):<br>
<a
href="http://www.fujifilmusa.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/proPhotoProductS5DataSpec.j
sp">http://www.fujifilmusa.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/proPhotoProductS5DataSpec.jsp
</a></p>
<p>In addition, the menu is not intuitive, too deep, and may frustrate
users.</p>
<p>Not to mention the whopping RAW file size. 512MB CF card can only hold 17
files! So I assume only 34 files on 1GB card.</p>
<p>However, considering that S5 delivers less noise at high ISO and image
quality that may be better dan 5D (not to mention cheaper than 5D, well...
there's the dilemma...)</p>
<p>Buy it?.. Not buy it?.. Buy it?... Not buy it?...</p>
<p>Well, I guess I'll just have to yet read other reviews before I really
decide whether I want to buy it or not. I might end up just buying D200, or
even 5D (sorry guys...)</p>
<p>Anyone here own it yet? I especially need to know if it's faster than S3
or not.</p>
<p>Leo</p>
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Pete, I also agree with Guy. I assume it's only the chip that Fuji changed. Everything else should have at least the same feature as the D200. The reason I picked Fuji is that I heard/read that it is great for skin color reproduction and thus less post production process. If you spend few more $$$ initially but save time on post production throughout your camera lifetime, well... I think that will be a very good investment. However, some of you guys made me think about reconsidering the D200, especially that it's cheaper. Hmm...*dilemma*.
As for the lens, when I meant perspective is... well... Let's take an example in 35mm. As you know, the 200mm made the background closer to subject (compared to 50mm). Just like looking into a binocular where it compresses the foreground and background together. Therefore, you will get a narrower DOF. This is a different perspective than 50mm where the subject and the background seems "normally" spaced as our eyes normally sees them. So my question is, using 50mm on DSLR will it act as a tele where it somewhat bring the background closer to the foreground, or will the image have a "normal" spacing but in a cropped version due to the smaller sensor size?
I want a lens that has shallow DOF that makes portraits looks great (with a blurrier background compared to normal/wide lens given the same aperture). The second lens (wide/normal) lens is also "unfortunately" needed because of the short distance (camera to subject) situation. So either I get a two lens set (can be a combination of zoom and prime, or both prime) or perhaps just get one zoom that covers all. However, I think the main priority is the portrait lens, or a zoom with a good portrait capability.
Leo
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I agree. Waiting a couple of months for a price drop, I can handle. But if I have to wait 6 months or more for price drop, then that's too long. Not worth the wait. Getting tons of photos in a few months and gaining all the experience is priceless. For the price difference, well... there's mastercard. Right? :)
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I don't have a DSLR yet, but I am waiting for the Fuji S5. I also don't have
any Nikon equipment at all. So this will be my first plunge into the Nikon
gears ownership/experience.
I plan to do a candid (PJ style) portrait session. The model can be either
inside or outside doing her daily routines. I am thinking about getting the
60/2.8D AF Micro, which I guess should be equal to 90mm on film. However, if
the model is in a narrow room, the 60mm lens might be too long. For that
reason, should I get a 20mm, 24mm or 35mm? I wish the filter size were the
same. The only same one with the 60mm is the 20/2.8D AF, but probably focal
length is more of a priority than filter size.
I read somewhere that the 85/1.4D AF has a rounded diaphragm, resulting to
more pleasing bokeh. But I guess the 85mm would be too long for shooting
indoor. I wonder if any of the lenses above has rounded diaphragm also?
How about zooms? Are there any zoom that's sharp as the primes?
I prefer fast lens since I will be shooting indoors and preferably not use
flash. If I have to use flash, then I plan to get SB-800 with Gary Fong's
diffuser.
My friend told me that the image perspective from a lens stays the same either
on 35mm or APS-C. For example, 200mm perspective on film will be the same as
on APS-C but cropped (So it's like taking a cropped image from a 35mm). Is
this true? To the best of my knowledge, his statement is wrong, but I didn't
have any illustration to show the physics behind this.
One more question. How long do you think the Fuji S5 price will stay the same
until it starts to drop? How long did it take for the Fuji S3 or Nikon D200
prices to drop?
Thanks,
Leo
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I should make it clear that my last question is for FF cameras.
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<p>I appreciate all your inputs.</p>
<p>Well first of all, I'm not wealthy. :) But probably I can owe my credit card for some investments which of course will yield a return.</p>
<p>You are right, if the FF comes out, I probably can't afford it right away. I just felt that if I buy DX lens, it might be obsolete in the near future. However, if it won't be obsolete in 5-7 years like some of you predicted, then I guess I will get a pretty good use of it. When I say obsolete, it is when Nikon FF DSLRs price comes down to $2000 or below.</p>
<p>As for image results from Canon vs. Nikon. Well, I'm a sucker for sharp and detailed images. So I guess, I'll stick with Nikon. If I want a soft/smooth edges, I can always do it in Photoshop. On the other hand, if the images were originally smooth, will it yield good result if sharpened later on Photoshop?</p>
<p>I also like sharp lenses. However, if I have to spend a lot more for just slightly better quality, I'll just get the less expensive one. On the other hand, if I can get a much better quality lens for slightly more $$$, I'll get the more expensive one.</p>
<p>Are the Sigmas as sharp as the Nikkors?</p>
<p>Is this the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=277227&is=USA&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation">12-24 DX</a> lenses some of you mentioned?</p>
<p>Are these the lenses that Guy suggest:
<br/><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=186250&is=USA&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation">17-35/2.8 AF-S</a>
<br/><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=66987&is=USA&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation">Micro Nikkor 60/2.8</a>
</p>
<p>Is this the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=169589&is=USA&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation">28-70/2.8</a> that Kevin meant?
<p>So for future reference and also curiosity, what are the prime or zoom lenses you recommend for the focal length I mentioned above. Well, let me repeat it so you don't have to scroll up.
<br/>Portrait lense (85-90mm, or maybe above 90mm?), normal lens (50mm, or slightly above), wide (either 24 and 35mm combo, or just 28mm), and fisheye or super wide (16-20mm).</p>
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<p>After reading <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-
msg?msg_id=00EDeQ&tag=200512081112">this thread</a>, which discussed
whether Nikon Full Frame DSLR will eventually be made, should I get
DX lenses or the non DX lenses? (Due to vignetting issue if DX
lenses are used on full frame)
</p>
<p>I don't have any DSLR camera at the moment and pretty much open
to any brand. My aim is prosumer camera such as D200. I plan to
use it for weddings. Can't afford a D2X (yet).</p>
<p>Based on my experience with films, I need these lenses:
<br/>Portrait lense (85-90mm), normal lens (50mm), wide (either 24
and 35mm combo, or just 28mm), and eventually fisheye or super wide
(16-20mm)</p>
<p>I do like primes, but changing lenses can be a hassle and may
lose good moments (unless in the future I can afford more camera and
have different lens on different camera, and, yes, I do know I need
a backup camera/equipment). So if there are good or even top of the
line fast zooms, I'll consider them. I believe in spending good
lenses (although expensive) is worth down the line and is a good
investment.</p>
<p>Could you please give me some suggestions?<p>
<p>BTW, the reason I pick Nikon is that a camera store guy told me
that Nikon has the best TTL flash metering. I get OK result from my
current manual Minolta flash/camera set but not satisfied. Minolta
DSLR have the built-in anti-shake tech, which is nice but not sure
if I need it. Not sure if I need Nikon VR lenses also. Another
camera store guy told me that Canon have better color rendition than
Nikon. However, my problem is usually with getting a good exposure
ratio of background and subject using flash. If I use my light
meter, I may lose moments.</p>
<p>Thanks,
<br/>Leo</p>
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Stacy:
Can you give me some advice on where I should start or what companies do you suggest?
G Cottis:
Are you saying that scans from 35mm will not be good? Sorry but I'm not quite sure what you are trying to explain.
Leo
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I've been doing several wedding coverage for friends. I usually
have them printed at a pro lab and bought an album and arrange the
pictures by myself. Just recently, a potential client asked whether
I could do a magazine-style album. So here are my Qs:
1. Anyone knows a good lab, preferably in Maryland or DC area that
provides this service? I wouldn't mind online sites if necessary.
2. One thing I must mention is that I don't have a digital camera
and hence I use film (Portra VC and Ilford Delta 400). I don't have
a film scanner either. I'm not sure whether to have the film
scanned at the developing lab or at the album lab.
3. How much should I expect to pay to do these services. I'm
guessing it will depend on how much photos will be on the album
and/or frame scanned? Can you give me ballpark or price range?
4. For wedding album softwares, is is possible to do simple
manipulations like vignetting/blurring/etc or do I have to use PS?
The problem is that I don't know much in using PS :(
Of course I can learn the basics. The wedding is still 7 months
away. Can anyone suggest a good book for learning the basics?
Thank you,
Leo
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Boy am I glad that I visited this forum today. This is the first time since... uh.. I don't know... a year I guess. Then the series of the DWF title attracted me.
Thanks Kevin!
BTW, I'm familiar with Kevin's name when I used to linger around the Leica forum. :)
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<p>So I checked here (http://www.rokkorfiles.com/Lens%
20History.html) first.
<p>I'm trying to figure out and recap the history of the MC-MD
models.
<p><b>MC 1st gen:</b> All metal barrel, metal focusing ring,
unpainted aperture ring, and simple lens coating.
<p><b>MC 2nd gen:</b> All metal barrel, rubber grip (waffle)
focusing ring, black aperture ring, advanced lens coating, and the
use of "Rokkor-X" for North American market ("Rokkor" elsewhere,
just like the previous generations).
<p><b>MC 3rd gen:</b> Almost the same features as the 2nd gen.
except for using better lens coating and the dropping the usage of 2-
letter lens configuration code.
<p><b>MD 1st gen:</b> Well Antony said that the MD introduced a tab
at the rear of lens barrel. How come on the size comparison picture
of the MC and MD, both lenses have tab?
<br>However if I understand correctly, all features are the same as
MC 3rd gen, but with a more advanced lens coating? Most (all?) of
the lenses use 55mm filter size.
<p><b>MD 2nd gen:</b> Similar to MD 1st gen but the filter size
became 49mm and the aperture ring is made of plastic.
<p><b>MD 3rd gen:</b> Well too many change, so I don't want to list
them here. :) But the most obvious is the aperture lock tab and the
discontinuation of "Rokkor" use.
<p>Now here are my questions:
<p>1. The 35mm MD Rokkor(-X) only comes in 49mm? I assume so because
Antony used this lens and I couldn't find one in 55mm on eBay. I
read somewhere that Antony likes using 55mm lenses for ease of
filter use.
<p>2. The Rokkor only (no "X"), uses white font type. While
the "Rokkor-X" uses yellow and white. Does the yellow and white
color indicate generation difference or maybe filter size?
Different manufacturer?
<p>3. Some of the MD Rokkor lenses indicates 55mm or 49mm, but some
doesn't. If it doesn't have the filter size marking, can I assume
that it's 55mm? So how come some have it and some don't? Different
generation? Different manufacturer?
<p>4. One of the previous posting, Antony claimed that the MC Rokkor
50mm f1.4 is sharper than the MD Rokkor. Again, I haven't seen
any "MC Rokkor-X" only of this lens. What I have found is the MC
Rokkor-X PG, thus 2nd generation, right? Is there a 3rd gen of this
lens?
<p>5. A couple of seller on eBay claimed that 50mm MD (or was it
MC?) Macro Rokkor-X f3.5 is the sharpest lens ever made by Minolta.
Is this true?
<p>Thanks,
<br>Leo
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Uggh.. What happened to these lenses? See the rear part.
<p><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=48554&item=7503592257&rd=1">This</a>
<p>and
<p><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=48554&item=7502294105&rd=1">this too</a>
<p>How come it doesn't seem to affect the glass?
<p>Leo
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Couldn't it be the other way? That those photos on your links are just a bad or unretouched scans from the books?
<p>I would never thought she was using a Hassy. If you look at the picture on this homepage <a href="http://astro.temple.edu/~marnie/vial/homenew.html">http://astro.temple.edu/~marnie/vial/homenew.html</a>, it seems like a 35mm camera. This photo is also on the back of the Women Before 10 also. Of course, it doesn't mean that she's using the same camera during those photo sessions.
<p>Leo
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Anyone seen the book "Women Before 10 a.m." by Veronique Vial? I'm
really curious what camera(s), film and probably lenses that she
used for the photo sessions. All of them seemed to be using
available light.
BTW, I'm not sure whether this is the correct forum to ask this. If
I don't get the answer, I'll try on another forum. Maybe you can
suggest me.
Leo
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Antony,
I can't thank you enough for your wonderful site and your responses in this forum whether they're my question or others (I benefit from others questions also :)). Maybe we can nominate him for an admin or backup admin for this forum? How about it guys?
I also agree with Ed. You don't have to buy the lens or any other item you would like to test. Just give us your wish list and I'm sure each of us can contribute something.
As for being unemployed, I know how it feels. I've been there too. But there's always a positive side on any unfortunate situation. My prayers for you.
Leo
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Thank you, Antony.
Leo
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Clinton:
<br>I wanted to do what you suggested, unfortunately, none of the camera shops here have a complete line of Sto-fen.
<p>
Antony:
<br>I've seen the Uni model picture. Since this is a one-size-fits-all, will there be light leak from the sides? That is if the attachment is larger than the flash head.
<br>I think it uses a velcro, right? How far back should I attach the velcro?
<p>
Thanks,
<br>Leo
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Can anyone suggest the correct model of Sto-fen omni bounce (and
maybe the adapter) for the 360PX flash?
Thanks,
Leo
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I guess this are the brackets (8 and 10 inch):
<p>The <a href="http://www.adorama.com/FABS358.html?searchinfo=siegelite&item_no=18">8" bracket</a>
<p>The <a href="http://www.adorama.com/FABS3510.html?searchinfo=Siegelite&item_no=7">10" bracket</a>
<p>Leo
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So it does makes a difference. Thank you, Kenny.
Finao Albums
in Wedding & Event
Posted
Hi Rachel,
What other albums do you offer (that remaining 5%)?
Thanks,
Leo Dj