ulrik

<p>That the back first reads "no media" and then "card" when booting is normal. I have used my backs mainly on 500C/M, 501CM and modiefied 203FE. None have given problems. My only real problem with the CFV-16 was that it produced only stripes at temperatures around 40 °C. haven't had that with my current CFV-50.</p>

<p>It is more likely that somebody with experience in working on the Kiev-Hasselblad-copies can work on your 1600F. Do yourself a big favour and do not give the camera to somebody who has no experience with this type of camera. Horrible things can happen and spare parts are very rare (especially shutter curtains).</p>

<p>Peter at http://v-system-500.de/ is a very competent, reliable and friendly mechanic and charges reasonable prices. He has all the factory tools to adjust registration distance, screen and mirror position so that your Hasselblad will even deliver first rate results when used with demanding digital backs. He has done quite a number of repairs and services for my Hasselblad inventory.</p>

<p>The chrome top layer is very hard. The metal alloy beneath is quite soft. I have not figured out a way, be it mechanical or chemical, to remove the chrome without seriously damaging the metal below. I had been thinking about this because I own a number of very old Hasselblads where the chrome has suffered from corrosion and a repaint would have been nice.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>It is obvious from your pictures that Heliopan has labelled the filter wrongly. As suggested it appears to be a B50 filter. I have many Heliopan filters and they are labelled correctly. It is indeed a bit confusing, but B60 filters have a diameter of about 67 mm and B50 filters of about 58 mm.</p>

<p>You will find all the required info on the Hasselblad website. Hasselblad offers an adapter that allows the use of all Hasselblad V-lenses with leaf shutter. This means all the C-, CF, CB-, CFE- and CFi-lenses. You can't use the F- and FE-lenses and the lenses made for Hasselblad 1000F and 1600F.</p>

<p>Good luck with removing it. It does neither look like fungus nor like haze to me. If you do not succeed you will have at least a lens with plenty of the famous "Leica glow".<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>If you are located in Europe it would make sense to contact Peter Gierens. He sells 500-series cameras and magazines here and then. They come with warranty and the camera bodies are adjusted with factory tools for registration distance, mirror and screen position which is extremely important with used Hasselblads but often overlooked and reason for frustration. http://v-system-500.de/ .</p>

<p>1949 is by far the most common production year of Kodak lenses for Hasselblad. Treat that 1600F very gently, they are divas.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>There are no CFE- and CFE IF-versions of the 50 mm-lenses (but of the 40 mm lens). There are:</p>

<ul>

<li>C 4,0/50 mm, chrome, T-coated</li>

<li>C 4,0/50 mm, chrom, T*-coated</li>

<li>C 4,0/50 mm, black, T*-coated</li>

<li>CF 4,0/50 mm, black, T*-coated</li>

<li>CF 4,0/50 mm FLE, black, T*-coated</li>

<li>CFi 4,0/50 mm FLE, black, T*-coated</li>

<li>F 2,8/50 mm FLE, black, T*-coated</li>

<li>FE/TCC 2,8/50 mm FLE, black, T*coated</li>

</ul>

<p>From large prints I can recommend the performance of the CF 4,0/50 mm FLE and the CF 4,0/40 FLE, used with CFV-50. 100 x 70 cm prints of pictures taken with the 40 mm CF FLE are breathtaking sharp (using tripod and MLU).<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>While all Hasselblad V-System-finders will fit, the very old style waist level finder with external struts is historically the correct one.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>The 150 mm C-lens is cheap as dirt at the online auctions. There is no alternative anyway. You are wrong, thinking that converting a lens to Hasselblad is no problem (you need lenses with leaf shutter).<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>After modification a rubber panel on the left side is exchanged which says that it has been modified. So I have no better idea than suggesting to clean the contacts.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>Has your 203 FE been rewired for use with Hasselblad digital backs? If it has, there is no transfer of ISO values from film magazine to camera body any more.</p>

<p>The 2,8/150 is at least as good as the 4,0/150. All Hasselblad 150 mm lenses are coated, also the earliest silver versions. Coatings improved a bit in the early 1970s. Lenses with the more modern coating are marked with "T*", the older coating is called "T", but though the lenses have it there is no engraving on the barrel.<br>

The main reason for preferring a CF- over a C-version is that you can disable the shutter of the CF-lens by setting it to "F".<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>You should hold the light seal in place with the darkslide when mounting the magazine plate . Then everything should be in place.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>Anthony,<br>

may I ask out of curiosity what you are up for? (Having all sorts of OM-lenses and Leica III-cameras as well)<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>I also very much doubt that there was a tighter quality control. Even if there were this would have no consequence when buying a used camera. On a used camera mirror- and screen alignment and body dimensions should be checked and aligned with the proper factory tools by a specialist anyway.<br>

BTW, I would recommend to buy a Hasselblad 501 CM as this has the larger mirror.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>Empty frames point to an additional problem with the shutter of the 1000F. This is not unlikely as these cameras usually have an incomplete service history to put it mildly. The Hasselblad 1000F shutter requires regular use to work reliably.</p>

<p>Richard,<br>

if you have a magazine with foam light trap you can buy the required spare parts from my friend Peter (http://www.v-system-500.de) He can also supply a step-by-step manual in English (I did the translation ;-). That will not solve the spacing problem, however.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>Both, incorrect spacing and light leak, will most likely be caused by the film back. If you have a film back that is younger than your camera or has ben modified at some point in history, the foam light seal of the darkslide slit will have deteriorated.<br>

The 1000F is a fine camera if properly serviced.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>The Leica M9 is an electronic device. Therefore I strongly suggest to buy it either from a dealer who offers warranty or from a private seller as long as the the camera ist still under warranty. I bought my M9 that was still under extended warranty, currently it is for calibration at the service in Wetzlar.</p>

<p>This is the poorest fake that I have seen so far.</p>

<p>Obviously the camera requires proper cleaning, adjustment and lubrication. A 500 C/M may have reached an age where the foam parts have become brittle and require replacement too. Especially those that align the mirror in its housing. Send the camera to a specialist who has the proper knowledge, experience and equipment not only to make the camera functioning but also to adjust all critical parameters like mirror position, ground glass position and flange distance.<br>

Ulrik</p>

<p>Before you dismantle anything: Check if the shutter has really released. There is a small lever in the rear bayonett inside a small round metal collar. Move this lever and see if the shutter fires. If it does you should be able to recock the lens again with a coin.<br>

Ulrik</p>