rolland_elliott2
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Posts posted by rolland_elliott2
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"Yes, Mamiya of America may charge higher prices, but they provide jobs to Americans and provide training for repair people and a whole sytem that supports the cameras."
Sounds like a statement from a Mamiya sales rep. I hate to say this buy Mamiya won't make a single cent when people buy used equipment. Even if the buyer were to get them serviced from Mamiya USA, they would't make much. They are in the business of selling cameras, not repairing them. There is no gray Market Mamiya equipment because Mamiay USA is effective involved in price fixing. Last time I checked price fixing wasn't good news for the economy, just the monopolies that run them. If you really want to help the economy don't buy from price fixing companies.
Mamiya made their new AF 645 camera with electronic aperture control, therefore making buying used 645 camera lenses less appealing due to the manual stop down limitations.
Nikon has done the same thing with their new AF cameras that don't meter with old Nikon lenses. Nikon was however cool enough to start marketing a new manual camera.
Camera manufacturers don't seem to have our interests at heart when it comes to buying used equipment. I don't see why anyone should pay over 50% more to support these companies. Buy overseas and save $$$; ignore the sales reps propaganda.
Robert White is highly recommended. Hong Kong Stores are even cheaper, but are more difficult to commuinicate with.
-Rolland
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Well I was just reading through a Canon EOS1v instruction book and it
warns that multiple exposures should not be taken near the beginning
or end of a roll of film because the film tension is not very tight
and the frame registration may therefore slip.
<p>
Perhaps the same is true of the P67II?
<p>
-Rolland
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Use tape. Duct tape works good, mixed with some electrical tape and wires. If the homemade solution does not work, you could always buy a pc to pc cord for less than $10. If the canon flash doesn't have a pc outlet, you can buy one of those hotshoe to pc cords.
Peace, Rolland
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"His response was that the sprocket advancing the film when the
multiple exposure function has been engaged does not catch sprocket
holes on the film cleanly causing the film to slip between the first
and subsequent exposures. "
<p>
What does he mean by sprocket? 120/220 film does not have sprockets
like 35mm film.
<p>
The only time I've done multiple exposure with a P67II is when I
tried getting a softfocus effect. The first shot was esposed sharp,
and then the second frame was shot out of focus. The results were
poor. It looked like an earthquake shot, not a softfocus one. But
maybe the results were not my fault, but the cameras?
Peace, Rolland
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Great idea! Just remove the leatherette from the right hand side of the camera to reveal the FPC (flexible printed circuit) Connect the FPC to the special cable that goes into the computer with the special software to modify the EPROM's in the camera. Designing the cable and software shouldn't take more than a month or two and a few hundred $$$.
Of course if you don't have the time you could always send it to Pentax for $40.
I have a repair manual if you want to buy it from me. Trust me, just send it into Pentax it is easier & cheaper in the long run.
Peace, Rolland
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Well, there is a way to get a rectilinar 35mm lens. But it requires
quite a bit of work.
<p>
Get a 35mm tilt shift lens designed for 35mm cameras, like the Canon
FD 35mm TS lens. or Nikon 35mm PC lens. Remove the lens elements from
the helical assembly and fit them to a spare Pentax 67 mount. Design
the mount so it holds the mirror up after exposure.
<p>
You will have to use the lens with mirror up and for the P67II you
will have to remove the lens after each exposure so the mirror can
go down all the way and can be recocked. Add to the fact that the
corners will probably vinginette and a viewfinder will have to be
used and focusing will be by hyperfocal distance it doesn't sound
that appealing.
<p>
I've been thinking of doing this with my Nikkor 28mm f/3.5 PC lens,
but haven't gotten around to it yet. It only has an image cicle of
about 70mm, so the corners would vingenette, but after cropping it
would still be extremely wide.
<p>
Food for thought.
<p>
Peace, Rolland
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Yes Cayman is great! The ONLY way they ship is by overnight and that
is why shipping is so expensive. This policy has something to do with
Fed Ex, Overseas shipments, and customs, and insurance. I've asked
them to ship via Fed Ex International 3 -5 day delivery to reduce
shipping prices , but they can't.
<p>
Peace, Rolland
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"But, modern designs are trying not to have too much magnification in
rear groups in telephotos" -Steve
<p>
Hi Steve,
<p>
I've always found your posts interesting because you often talk about
lens designs and technical aspects of the lenses. However, myself and
99.9% of the photographers out there couldn't tell you the difference
betweeen any lens design, so I was wondering if you could recommend a
good beginer book on basic optics geared towards photography. I
bought a couple of books off ebay, but they are way too technical. No
one should have to look at integral symbols.
<p>
Peace, Rolland
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Haven't used or seen it, but would recommend it without hesitation. I
built my own L bracket out of Aluminum and some Oatley's epoxy
putty. Works great. You don't really need a wooden hand grip if you
are doing tripod work, and even if it blocked the film door, it's not
like the Pentax was ever easy to load film into. Basically I think
the positives outweigh the negatives
<p>
Peace, Rolland
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Cool! Someone beat me on this one. I've got all the materials, just
haven't had time to buy a spare P67 lens mount and machine it on
there.
<p>
A source of wide angle lenses that would clear the Pentax 67 mirror
box would be those from Mamiya RB67 or Fuji 680III. The Mamiya
lense's wouldn't offer that much coverage so may not be that great
for shift work, but Fuji's lenses are designed to cover the 6x8
format, and would easily cover the 6x7 negative, even with movements.
Only problem might be vignetting due to the mirror box with extreme
movements.
<p>
Otherwise the above posts are correct you are limited to about 100mm
or greater in focal length for shift/tilt work.
<p>
Peace, Rolland
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Well Nikon makes a battery holder with cord that you can stick in your pocket. This keeps the battery warm while the camera can remain cold. I think it is called the DB-5. It was actually made for the N8008s camera, but it will work in the N90s too. It might be hard to find/expensive, but in the long run it will probably save you money by saving batteries. It takes Lithium batteries. That's the only bummer. I'm sure if you called up Nikon tech support at 1 800 NIKON US they could tell you.
Peace, Rolland
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Well the above posts pretty much sum up my views too, so here's some advice on purchasing.
Don't buy any of the equipment you're considering in the USA!
Rollei is cheaper through the UK. Try Robert White's
Mamiya is much cheaper through the UK or Asia.Try Robert White's
Hasselblad Xpans are much cheaper through Cayman Camera.
Info on the above companies can be found in the archives.
If you wind up getting a Fuji 6x9 III SW buy them used. You can find very nice used ones for around $900. Why buy a new one at $1200 just to have its value drop $300 the minute you open the box?
Peace, Rolland
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Yes you can use large format lenses this way with the helical tube. But like the poster above says, close up ability will be limited. I mounted a 210mm f/5.6 enlarger lens on the camera with several extention tubes and a helical tube and it worked well.
The actually mount to film distance for the pentax 67II is 85mm NOT 89mm. In addition one wouldn't necessarily have to add 5mm for an adapter. One could simply machine the top of the helical tube or have the lens somewhat inset into the helical tube. Thus the actuall usefull focal length range for adapted lenses is probably around anything above 90mm.
Of course radical lens designs like those used on the Fuji 680II are extremely retro and allow even more space between the lens and film.
Most anything can be adapted to anything if there is a will there is a way.
Peace, Rolland
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Yes you made a mistake. You bought expensive equipment with out doing proper research. Only time and practice with the equipment will tell you if it was a big mistake or a little one, or perhaps you will actually grow to like your choice. The only saiving grace is you can usually sell used gear for about what you paid for it. To prevent this mistake in the future read the archives of this forum or get a couple of books at your local library. Both are free, the only extra thing you need is patience to read the often boring technical aspects of photography. Idiots on ebay routine pay more than the gear is worth.
As far as your flash questions are concerned, a good photography book on the subject will solve that problem, like Kodak.. Read the whole 100 page book, don't expect a paragraph long answer on photo.net to educate you.
Not trying to patronize you, but doing homework helps, and only you can do that.
Peace, Rolland
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"I have succeed in dismantling my CZJ lenses to remove dust though dust necessarily doesn't have any effect on picture quality"
If it ain't broke don't fix it. -Rolland
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"Now now, Rolland...let's not go to www.crass.com!!!
Victor Lioce"
Well dispite Victor's advice I went to: <p>
<a href="http://www.crass.com/">http://www.crass.com/</a>
<br>
It has nothing to do with medium format photography, tripods, or for that matter email etiquette. In fact the site is so poorly designed all links from the homepage are dead ones.
So agree, with him, you should not go there. Victor gives great advice.
Peace, Rolland
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Well I hate to say this but .....
If you have to ask why you need these, you probably don't need them to begin with.
There are some excpetions to this rule. For example some photographers like to collect gear and never use it. They constantly ask questions that have nothing to do with improving their photography; their only function is to satisfy their curiosity and materialistic needs.
The only solution for this sickness is to go out and take some pictures. Preferably at least once a day. So go out and take some pictures!
Peace, Rolland
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" I decided I liked the SLR format for Lanscapes where I can see the depth of field and true perspective of each of the lenses, as well as polarizing and neutral grad filter effects."
I wholeheartedly agree withe the above statement. Good landscapes photographers regularly rely on ND grads and other filters where SLR's are necessary.
Go ahead and jump up to MF. To save money I'd suggest buying used or through Cayman Camera. Get a hold of Carl Shipman's Book "How Select and use Medium Format cameras. It gives great instrucitons on a wide variety of cameras and will prove helpfull to your search.
And yes keep your 35mm gear, especially long lenses. Long lenses iwth Medium Format gear are extremely awkward to use. At least the P67 with 500mm f/5.6 is quite a burden to focus and move around on a tripod. Maybe I just need a better ball head?
Peace, Rolland Elliott
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Cayman Camera is the best place to go. Dig through the archives and do your homework and you will be rewarded by saving $$$. Some prices are below. Some are about 2 years old some are a few months old, so verify before buying. Email them at Colleen McGaw <caycamer@candw.ky> or go to their web site:
www.cayman.com.ky/com/caycamer/
Product #: 10291
Description: 67 II Body
Price: U.S. $1,285.00
Product #: 38000
Description: AE Penta Finder II - Prism
Price: U.S. $471.00
Product #: 29250
Description: 45mm F 4.0 lens for 67 II
Price: U.S. $681.00
Product #: 29830
Description: 55 � 100 mm F 4.5 lens for 67 II
Price: U.S. $1,327.00
Product #: 29301
Description: 165mm F 4.0 Leaf Shutter lens for 67 II
Price: U.S. $709.00
Product #: 37932
Description: 1.4 X Rear Converter
Price: U.S. $414.00
Product #: 37934
Description: 2.0 X Rear Converter
Price: U.S. $493.00
Product #: 38012
Description: Flash Grip handle for 67 II
Price: U.S. $157.00
Product #: 37910
Description: Set of Inner Extension Tubes for 67 II
Price: U.S. $285.00
Product #: 29415
Description: 400mm F 4.0 Lens for 67 II
Price: U.S. $4,946.00
Product #: 29330
Description: 300 mm F 4.0 lens for 67 II
Price: U.S. $1,041.00
Product #: 38021
Description: Bellows Unit for 67 II
Price: U.S. $1,210.00
Product #: 37421
Description: Magnifier (2 X with case) for 67 II
Price: U.S. $78.00
Product #: 37919
Description: Helicoid Extension Tube (with case � 32 � 52 mm extension)
Price: U.S.$122.00
Product #: 38006
Description: 67 II Focusing Screen BB � 81 with case (matte field with
split � image) � designed for 100/M, 135/M, 500/5.6
Price: U.S. $43.00
Product #: 38010
Description: 67 II Focusing Screen BG � 80 with case (matte field with
cross - lines) � designed for 100/M, 135/M, 500/5.6, 800/6.7, 1000/8
Price: U.S. $43.00
Product #: 38015
Description: Folding Focusing Hood with case for 67 II
Price: U.S. $143.00
Product #: 29464
Description: 300 mm F 4.0 ED IF Lens for 67 II
Price: U.S. $1,600.00
To get the product # go to B&H's web site and look up the product. B&H will list Pentax's Product # on the web page of the item.
Only drawback is high shipping. Warranty is USA NOT gray market.
peace, Rolland
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2) Alot of the MF shooters process their own negs and print their own prints.
THE MAJORITY OF MF SHOOTERS ARE WEDDING AND PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHERS WHO HAVE THEIR OWN BUSINESS IN JUST ABOUT EVERY TOWN ACROSS THIS USA. TRUST ME, THEY DON'T HAVE TIME TO PRINT THEIR OWN IMAGES. HARDLY ANYONE PROCESSES THEIR OWN COLOR FILM, AND ONLY A SMALL FRACTION PRINT BLACK AND WHITE.
This will give a different look and feel than the machine processed prints that alot of 35mm shooters get (Here come the flames).
MANY SCANNED IMAGES (IF NOT MOST OF THEM) COME DIRECTLY FROM FILM SCANNERS. THEREFORE YOUR ASSUMPTION THAT THE MANUAL CONTROL OFFERED IN THE DARKROOM IS A BENEFIT FOR MF SHOOTERS IS RATHER PRESUMPTUOUS. THE CONTROL OFFERED BY A COMPUTER IS MUCH MORE COMPREHENSIVE. WHAT EXACTLY IS THE DIFFERENT "FEEL"? I THINK YOU ARE REFERING TO THE DEPRESSING FEELING THAT MF SHOOTERS FEEL EVERYTIME THEY PICK UP THEIR FILM DEVELOPING ORDERS AND BUY NEW EQUIPMENT AND DISCOVER THEY HAVE AN EMPTY WALLET/PURSE.
3) I would assume that MF shooters who take such pride in there equipment would use the highest quality scans so as to take pride in their digital images.
THAT'S A WRONG ASSUMPTION. MF SCANNERS COST THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS AND THE HIGHEST QUALITY SCANS CAN EASILY COST $50 TO $100 A SCAN.
FACE THE MUSIC, YOU'RE NOT GOING TO BE ABLE TO TELL IF THE SHOTS POSTED ON THE WEB WERE TAKEN WITH A $500 2MP DIGITAL CAMERA, A $1000 35MM SLR SYSTEM OR A MF SYSTEM COSTING THOUSANDS.
PEACE, ROLLAND
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Try reading your instruction book. The exposure meter shows the reading of ambient light. This is just about how every modern TTL computerized camera displays flash and ambient exposure readings.
While you're at it read your flash instruction book. Then take some pictures and have fun.
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I've never had any tariff fees when buying from Cayman. I've ordered from them at least 5 times. Don't worry about it. Cayman is great.
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Cut off the hood and be done with it! The hood provides very little flare protection and even if you cut it off it can be reattatched with some tape and work perfectly, if you change your mind.
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Does your college have an acting/theater dept or dancing dept. Many actors need headshots done. All you need is a plain background, B&W film flash and umberalla along with your camera. Do a good job on the first few jobs and word of mouth will spread quickly.
When I was in college I also offered to do group shots of friends as a keepsake. Only made about $150 for a days work, but it was fun. I had to split the profits with the dorm's hall council.
Does your school have a newspaper? I got paid $10 a shot when I was working for my college newspaper. OK, it didn't amount to a hill of beans considering I had to go out and get a shot, come back and develop it and track down technical details like people's names for the editor. But it was fun and I got this cool little certificate for "Best Photographer" at the end of the year banquet.
Do you have any Fraternities or Sororities around that need group pictures? This is a great $$$ maker, but requires lots of lighting equipment. You could rent equipment or maybe borrow some equipment from your school's photo department????
OK, I have to admit I never made much money in photography while in college, but it was fun at any rate. Money is the root of all evils. Just enjoy what you have.
Peace, Rolland
70mm perforated films... what is still available?
in Medium Format
Posted
See:
<a
href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000gr1">Old 70mm film list</a><p>
I've copied the list below. The list is a little old, but most of them are still available. N. Perf stands for No perforations. There is not a ton available, but enough variety for 99.9% of photographic purposes. You have black & white, color negative, color reversal and of course Infrared. What more could you ask for? Perhaps a color negative infrared film?<p>
BLACK AND WHITE FILMS <p>
CAT. #.........SIZE.........LETTER CODE.......SPEC #.....LIST PRICE <p>
Ektapan Film ISO 100 <br>
1526797 75' N.Pref. EKP 473 $97.95 <br><br>
Plux-X Pan Profesional Film 2147/ Estar Base <br>
165 0480 100' N. Pref. PXE 473 $114.50 <br><br>
TMAX 100 Professional Film /TMX <br>
801 1702 100' N. Pref. TMX 473 $97.00 <br><br>
Tri-X Pan Film ISO 400 <br>
852 7616 100' N. Pref. TX 473 $93.10 <br><br>
Infrared Aerographic Film 2424 EI=250 <br>
162 1580 150' Perforated NA 494 $256.40 <br><br><br>
COLOR NEGATIVE FILMS <br><br>
PORTRA 160NC FILM (Also Available in a N. Perf. format) <br>
833 0458 100' Perforated 160NC 475S $140.20 <br><br>
PORTRA 400NC Film <br>
819 5554 100" N. Perf. 400NC 474S $141.60 <br><br>
I also think Konica still manufactures a 160 ISO portrait film in 70mm format, but I'm not positive. <br><br><br>
Color Reversal Films <br><br>
Ektachrome Film E100S <br>
110 13023 100 Perforated E100S 475 $279.60 <br><br>
Aerochrome II Infrared Film 2443 Process AR-5 or E-6 <br>
898 5616 100 Perforated n/a 494 $242.40 <br><br>
SPECIALTY 70MM FILMS <br><br>
KODAK VERICOLOR III PROFESSIONAL FILM This film is used for the creation of digital negatives. <br>
891 6371 100' 475 475 $140.20 <br><br>
Kodak Internegative Film <br>
856 5186 100' N. Perf. 5325 473 $247.40 <br><br>
Kodak Aerocolor II Negative Film <br>
ISO A equivalent 64. Process AN-5 Chemicals <br>
878 9737 100' n/a 494 $199.40 <br><br>
Ektachrome Slide Duplicating Film / 5071 <br>
173 0480 100' Perforated 5071 475 $131.60 <br><br>
Fuji also manufactures a 70mm duplicating film, but I do not know the catalog number of it. <br><br>
-- Rolland Elliott, December 04, 1999; 05:16 P.M. Eastern