harman_bajwa
-
Posts
297 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by harman_bajwa
-
-
Aha ! Finally someone already a "Photo Guru" who needs more information on "photography" :-)
More seriously, try the EOS Doc website:
- Harman
-
.... also even if this lens had backfocus problems on just the 10D - I would fault the 10D not the lens. It works pretty darn sharp (read fine) on my Elan 7E
- Harman
-
Yes, yes, yes ... Now we can move on to other issues :)
- Harman
-
<i>"lets assume f16 @ 1/90 gives proper exposure. For that setting stopping down would be f19 @ whatever. "</i>
<p>
I do not think that to be the case. A one stop down from f/16 is f/22. However going from f/16 to f/19 is a fraction of one stop (it is half a stop less). You may want to look at this:
<br>
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-stop">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-stop</a>
<br>
and
<br>
<a href="http://www.gbbc.org.uk/crh/fstops.htm">http://www.gbbc.org.uk/crh/fstops.htm</a>
<br>
and if you can take in the technical aspect, this thread could be worth looking into:
<br>
<p>
Hope that helps.
<p>
- Harman
-
I have the F4L - and find it to be truly an amazing lens for the price.
I often use it on a tripod when shooting long (missing IS) or in low light (longer shutter speeds) and in those situations the TMR-B (Canon Tripod Mount Ring A (B) (B for black)) is a must have for this one.
- Harman
-
<i>So, lets say I shoot at f16 and the shutter speed turns out to be 1/90 sec. If I were to change the f to 19 and leave the shutter speed at 1/90 sec. in the manual mode, would that be considered stopping down?</i>
<p>
Correct me if I am wrong but this should be illustrated by three scenarios here: <br>
1. Metered/Proper exposure: f16 @ 1/90s <br>
2. Stopping down the aperture 1 stop: f/22 @ 1/90s <br>
3. "Underexposing" by 1 stop: f/22 @ 1/90s OR f/16 @ 1/180s <br><p>
The difference would be you would "stop-down" the aperture and still be able to keep your original EV by increasing shutter speed - other wise you are underexposing by one "stop" (or "losing a stop").
<p>
- Harman
-
<i>If it were bent heavily towards Canon owners, that would be fine too. :-)</i>
<p>
<i>Very</i> heavily bent towards Canon - but <u>extremely</u> well done: <b>EOS Magazine</b>. Well worth it.
<p>
- Harman
-
<i>My question is, do I really need filters are can I simulate most of what a filter would do in Photoshop? </i><p>
That is indeed a very good question.
<p><i>As I recall the photographer I just interned for never used filters</i>
<p>
... which points to the fact that neccessity of filters is more of a personal choice. Just because the salesman says you need them does not mean you need one. If the same salesman had said - well you really need an additional lens say the 28-300L - would you believe it ? So why give any credence to the salesman anyways ?
<p>
Personally, I stick hoods and a combo of CPL+warmer (81A or C) when I feel I need to. Works for me.
<p>
- Harman
-
I think Canon uses lower value in digits to indicate a lower price level (features) in general: Hence EOS 1/3/7/2000 and in digital 1D/5D/20D/10D/300D(350D). And yes you have a point with the oddity that is 20D-10D, but I guess a launch of 10D left canon without 2 digit names for a similar class of camera, so they used 20D.
Maybe single digit camera are a different class than the two digit ones and so on with three digits etc.
- Harman
-
>>Before that we had the CGS System (cm, gram, second) where cm was indeed a valid unit<<
I think you missed it by a mile :-) Actually the cm and mm are part of the same SI system that you mention. It a metric system where quatities can be inter-expressed in any of the convenient suffixes which are decimal based, such as km, cm, m, mm - they are all part of the same system.
The other system that you mention is based on the Foot-Pound-Yard system which is the Imperial system. Most countries, except for the US have left the F-P system.
But trust me the cm is very much part of the same system that mm is - its just the bigger brother, so to speak. Take a look here:
http://convert.french-property.co.uk/
- Harman
-
>>I think it makes more sense to say 14mm than 1.4 cm lens, no?<<
I think the idea is to use integral designations and get rid of the decimal altogether. That way everyone need not try and understand the unit behind the designation, but it would be implicit. After all your 1.4cm lens could be someone else's .014 meter lens or another's .000014 km lens ! (And we would have frequent lists arguing who is correct)
- Harman
-
Er.. Rookie question here: Are the terms "infinity focus" and "focused at hyperfocal distance" the same? If yes, would a lens calculator be the only sure shot way of determining whether or not inifinity focus is achieved on the 70-200F4L specifically ?
TIA
- Harman
-
So long as it focuses at 50mm (ie it works as it is supposed to), I could'nt care less what they call it :-)
- Harman
-
Another variation: lens approaching tele length, 4.5 aperture or higher = a bit slow handheld. I would go with an IS version, the Canon 28-135. It is a saver especially when using handheld. Darn decent quality (build and imagewise), and very good price to performance ratio (if it could be quatified as such).
- Harman
-
L = "L"ord of the lenses: The Fellowship of the lense
- Harman
-
Great Link Rob ! Thanks. I was looking for such a link.
- Harman
-
Mike, look here to see if that helps any:
<p>
<p>
- Harman
-
Never used this lens, but I am also thinking of buying this off ebay. Reading the reviews gives me the impression that this lens has a huge DoF hence manula focusing is not as tricky as it might seem on EOS cameras:
http://www.photoslave.com/misc/zenitar/zenitar.html
http://www.canonians.com/1DMkII-zenitar.htm
Noteworthy (for me) are such comments as "it's not THAT hard, and given the extreme DOF of this lens, even at f/2.8, missing focus isn't something that occurs all that often"
and
"For every subject exceeding a few meters , I set the focus at infinity . The hyperfocal reach seems endless . Also , and this wasn't expected , the minimum focus distance is around 10cm ( less than 4 inch )"
I have read similar things as above so far.
Finally, the camera controlled aperture lenses meter/focus off wide open. Hopefully the manual aperture type can also be kept open for focusing purposes and stopped down manually only when taking a shot.
- harman
-
I guess they (Canon) found enough su***rs willing for the Black Drebel, that they had a good laugh and decided to stretch it a little further to see what limits people will go to ...
- Harman
-
"My guess: the camera was in continuous shooting mode, and the second shot (the one shown above) was taken before flash had fully recycled."
Phil's answer seems most logical - I cannot imagine continous shooting mode and the girl ducking the shot in 1/5th of a second (or so) for the frame to come through the image as it did.
- Harman
-
"<i>Yeah, but where is the IS version? I have a friend with sources at Nikon and he says they are working on a 70-200/4 AFS VR lens.</i>"
<p>
Yakim, no disrespect, IS has nothing to do with optical performance. IS would only bring good optical performance if the lens were a good one to begin with (meaning IS would supplement it by increasing the stops usable in in low light/handheld.) Secondly, who said anything about Nikon ? I assume we are still talking about Canon - and does the Nikon lens you are mentioning fit into EOS mount ? Does it offer USM on EOS mount ? I cannot see where you are going with this. If you want IS, shell out more and get a 70-200/2.8 IS. IMHO for USD 550 this lens is an absolute steal for the value it offers. Heck, even my 28-135 IS, which is not even close to the 70-200F4L, cost me 350 ! The 70-210 is not IS, as far as I can tell:
<br>
<a href="http://www.camera.canon.com.my/archive/photography/nut/nuts48/
">http://www.camera.canon.com.my/archive/photography/nut/nuts48/
</a>
<p>
Anyways, I do respect your opinion a lot, and it must be that I am missing someting here, so forgive me for being so dumb.
<p>
<i>Seems logical. Lens design, and especially zoom lens design are making enormous progress in recent years.</i>
<p>
I agree. Hence better to get in with a lens with more recent vintage perhaps ?
<p>
- Harman
-
No offence, but seriously, how hard are you planning to throw the camera to the ground before taking a shot with it ?
- Harman
-
<i>"so if it doesn't do ETTLII I might take it back and order the 580EX</i>
<p>
The 580 EX is claimed to have other benefits that any other EX does not have, primarily:
<br>
- It now covers lenses as wide as 14mm, and has new features for digital SLRs - including the ability to transmit precise flash color temperature information, and vary the zoom setting to match the imaging sensor
<br>
- AF-assist beam now compatible with all AF points on every EOS SLR
<p>
See here:
<br>
<p>
Food for thought:
<br>
<p>
- Harman
-
<i>-can i lock the shutter open without holding the button on the
electronic cable release in bulb mode?</i>
<p>
Yes, and yes with the RC-1 remote also. On the RS-60E3, an arrow with the words "Running Lock" indicates the button needs to be pushed in that direction for a lock. Once the button is pushed and slid in the direction of the arrow, it stays locked till you slide it back and end the exposure. While the lock is engaged, you can see a red marker exposed indicating you the "engaged" position clearly.
In fact Bulb mode is only pratical with a remote - wired/wireless. The RC-1 can do a 2 second timer before the Bulb also.
<br>
See here for more info:
<br>
<a href="http://www.eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=RS-60E3">http://www.eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=RS-60E3</a>
<p>
<i>-is this camera good for low light long exposures?</i>
<p>
Quality of exposure is dependent on the Film being used and the lens being used. The camera only provides the shutter to open for the predetermined time period and let teh light from the lens (quality factor) fall on the film (quality factor).
<p>
<i>-and will i drain the batteries quickly using this camera for lots of 3-10 minute exposures</i>
<p>
Yes IMHO, the batteries will be used faster. As to how many rolls or how much of a difference, that is a good question !
<p>
- Harman
Canon EOS ELAN 7N/7NE
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
I have the older version the Elan 7E and ECF works pretty darn well for me. I am waiting for ECF to show up in the digital bodies before buying my first one
... well that, so at least I don't have to say that the expense is the main reason for now :-)
- Harman