norris_lam
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Posts posted by norris_lam
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<p>To confuse you more, you miss a wide angle prime lens, such as 24mm f1.4 II. This wide angle lens allows to have very close working distance. Imagine this is a macro lens with wide angle capability so you can also capacity the environment of the subject , such as a wedding ring ! The range of your existing lenses are all overlapping which means you are wasting money. If Canon 24mm f1.4 is too expensive, well, how about a Leica R 60mm f2.8 macro which renders fantastic color that you will not find from Canon unless you raise the saturation in PS. Also how about Nikon AIS 35mm f1.4 with artistic distorted bokeh at f1.4 or AIS 28mm f2.8 which superb macro capability... don't worry of the manual lenses, you will not know.... you will gain something when lossing the AF.</p>
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<p>You better fix the mirror first before your trip. For mine, it suddenly dropped off with the shutter pressed at home (at that time, i have used it for nearly 2-yrs) and there is nil any prior sign or notice. I was lucky enough this did not happen on my photo trip, or i will blame myself to the end. </p>
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<p>You have to bring it back to the maintenance. I have once search internet and saw how it's being fixed, the process is very complicated and have risk of failure. Don't worry too much, it's the norm to have this, as i was told by the Hasselblad official maintenance =.=' . </p>
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<p>Your pick of 1Ds Mark3 for your R optics will work better than 5D ... as i came along this way. Light metering on 5D with stopped down aperture on R lenses will become inaccurate and i often need to add -1 to -2EV. When i upgrade to 1Ds, this problem does not happen again, i thought this is due to the much accurate and sensitive metering of 1Ds mark3. I only have few Germany-made old R lenses ranging from 60-180mm because they are relative cheaper than R28. Having said that, i rarely use them on 1Ds anymore because using Canon AF lenses is much more fast and accurate in focusing. As you mention you have been used to large format, i then strongly suggest you to consider the new TSE 24mm Mark 2. </p>
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<p>The lenses also help very much in getting a great sharp pictures. Don't think a cheapy 55-250mm can give the same colorful and sharp one with 70-200mm F4 IS, etc. A high tech body helps to focus accurately and fast in macro and wildlife difficult situation. A high tech body has a bright large viewfinder for you to focus with manual lens. Not to say the brain behind the viewfinder is of utmost important of all, though a sharp knife helps cut meat easier and faster.</p>
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<p>I use various other brand manual lens on my EOS body, e.g. R and Hasso lenses, and recently when i got myself a Canon 1.4x for my Canon long tele lens, i try to see if it could work with Hasso lens. I find that when a Canon 1.4x is attached to the EOS body and then with other manual lens attached to the extendor via the usual adaptor, after you have pressed the shutter, you will rec'v an error message from the EOS body. The only way to handle this is to apply a plastic tape over the electronic contact points of the 1.4x extendor. I cannot attach my Leica R tele lens on the Canon 1.4x because of the bigger protruded element from the extendor. </p>
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<p>1Ds (i suppose you refer to Mark 1) will make you look professional to get a photographer job although i guess they will provide you the equipment? In terms of performance and technology, i will think 5D is better than 1Ds Mark 1. Recently, i have upgraded from 5D mark 1 to 1Ds mark 3 and i see much improvement in resolution, colour, speed and performance.</p>
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<p>You can simply use a flexible rubber hood that has a 77mm thread !</p>
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<p>from your equipment list, what you miss may be a tele-zoom. I think a tele zoom will provide you with much flexibility instead of a fixed prime 100mm macro lens.</p>
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<p>Instead of waiting endlessly for rumours to turn true...ever thought of the use of Leica R 60mm macro on EOS via an adaptor? fantastic results, although it becomes all manual and that's what fun and self-fullfillment come in.</p>
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<p>Pls research and consider Sigma 50mm f1.4. I got this great lens recently and it's really very good. You can do research and find how well the comments are. <br>
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<p>Come on, when u use the Hasso lens on Nikon DSLR, the camera uses its own curtain shutter ! ie can upto 1/8000s. simply because the leaf shutter of Hasso will not need to trigger and what you only need to do is to focus and then stop down the aperture for light metering by clicking a lever on the lens. I find my Hasso 50mm C T* is superb on Canon 5D but its very heavy and bulky ! After verifying vs Leica R lens, i stop using Hasso lens on Canon cause the weight and size won't justify me to carry them far away for photo taking.</p>
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<p>i have been using Schnieder 65mm and wish to share some experience for you. Mostly i use f11 and i don't think lens vignetting is a problem. The headache is that if i use 6x12 film back, the edge performance drops significantly. In addition, you cannot screw on a CPL in it cause it will show serious dark corner for 4x5 film. i have to use my hand to put a 77mm CPL in front of the lens carefully not to cause shaking to the setup, because setup ring still cannot solve the problem. in future if you wish to go for 6x17mm, this lens coverage is not sufficient. Also, it's barely be able to focus properly looking from the ground grass even with fresnel lens on it. In view of all the above, i may suggest an alternative solution of 72mm XL. </p>
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<p>i think M8 may not fit you well as you have been used to DSLR. M8 is not reliable and will hang up without giving you any advance warning. Everything of it is expensive.... even a piece of battery costs over USD1XX. And sure you know its lenses have become luxury goods nowaday. I can barely afford it because i got several lenses years ago before it changes its strategy to a luxury brand. Perhaps a small Lumix LX3 of G11 will make you even happier. hope this helps. </p>
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<p>Hakan, numerous years ago, i have used this V brand 21mm lens on my M6 simply because i won't afford the price of a Leica 21mm. I have read a comparison of the two lens and V brand lose over the edge performance only. Now, it's become my favourte lens on my M8 as it become 28mm now and it's horribly sharp and full of details. It's been the default lens to stay on my M8. Of course the 39mm IR filter is not cheap and not easy to find. <br>
I think your next question should be how about V brand 15mm? it's marginally ok in M6 using slide but it totally fail in M8. I ain't sure if the new version will be better but i won't want to try casue the '28mm' already given me surprise from time to time.<br>
My 2 cents.</p>
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<p>Linhof super rollex is a Rolex, Horseman is a Honda, they deliver you to the same destination but with different luxury. I suggest Horseman 6x12 back instead of 6x9. AND don't think too much as you will have a even tough question on which large format u will be going to pick. Don't waste time, get up and do it !</p>
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<p>Think creatively, do NOT use such a cloth. you can simply bring along a dark color light weight jacket. As Easy as That! </p>
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<p>Just do an experiment at home and u will find it! I find neither Mode 1 nor 2 could work at all on monopod. Switch it off. </p>
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<p>Simply use 17-40mm f4L will fit your needs. For indoor, u will use available light and tripods. Put the lens horizon to the ground will yield you perfect picture. Curvature at edge is very slight and if it does appear, crop it. Best value-for-money lens. </p>
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<p>i am still using the old Epson scanner 2450 for my medium and large format! and sure the current model will offer you superb result.</p>
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<p>The mindset and operation of 4X5 is totally different from any point and shoot photography, i have to say this from my experience. You will need to slow down your speed and change your shooting subject in most of the cases. In addition, the film and its processing is experience as well. Don't forget the weight and bulky equipment.... Go into it if you want a shift of paradigm, another way to seek breakout. Enjoy and have fun.</p>
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<p>No, pls go for a 2nd hand 5D Mark 1.</p>
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<p>If i were u, i will pick 35mm and 85mm both f1.2. getting 50mm f1.2 is unwise as it's too close to 35mm.</p>
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<p>i got my Hasso adaptor from eBay, pls do try to find the version with built-in tripod mount. This will be very useful to balance the c.g. of the camera if you need to put the camera on tripods. I find the screws connecting the tripod base to the adaptor mount is too short and you may need to replace by a longer screw and better use 'screw' glue to fix them permanently. Also, if possible, find the adaptor with the focus indicator chip. When taking picture with lens aperture stopped down, for most of the cases, you will need to -1 or -2EV so as to get correct exposure. Don't worry, have fun. I find my C T* Hasso 50mm with superb contrast and details. Enjoy !<br>
For Leica R adaptor to EOS, i got one of the version from ebay and find there is no spring at tall to hold the lens tightly in the mount and after few changes of lenses, the adaptor will become a bit lossy with the lens and so u may wish to get Cameraquest as i heard from forum that Cameraquest is good and tight ...</p>
Please guys, help me choose an additional lens!
in Canon EOS Mount
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