milan.ilnyckyj

<p>I have a Strobist umbrella and light stand and have found both to be really flimsy. That said, they are pretty cheap and one should generally expect to get at one pays for.</p>

<p>I have a very small, low-quality frame right now. What I like best about having it is how it attracts in co-workers, giving them an excuse to strike up a conversation. It's a good way to get to know people who I don't work with day-to-day.<br>

A screensaver would not accomplish the same thing, though I certainly appreciate the pragmatism of that solution in some circumstances.<br>

Another option I am considering is just making a big 12x18" print every month or so and sticking it on my wall. I could give them away each time I changed up.</p>

<p>A newer thread on this is at:<br>

http://www.photo.net/filters-bags-tripods-accessories-forum/00Vy2u</p>

<p>This question came up before, but there weren't any frames suggested:<br>

http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00PneU</p>

<p>I am frustrated by how almost all of the digital frames out there seem to be 15:9, 16:9, or 4:3 aspect ratio. The photos I want to show were either taken on film, an APS-C sensor, or a full-frame sensor. As such, I want a frame with a 3:2 aspect ratio, or at least something closer than 15:9.<br /> Ideally, the frame should be 9" or larger from corner to corner. Image quality is important, but wireless connectivity is not required. It just needs to be able to read from high capacity SD cards.<br /> Finally, it should not be terribly ugly or cheap looking. I want something to show off my best photos in my office with.<br /> Does anyone have any ideas?<br /> Thanks a lot,<br /> Milan</p>

<p>"Canon has just introduced a bunch of new EF-S lenses and a super new APS-C camera (the 7D) so you can be pretty sure that the world is not going to suddenly decide that APS-C is to be abandoned like a dead skunk.<br /> <br /> Oh-- and if you want "light and flexible" then APS-C makes more sense than ever."<br /> <br /> All good points. Perhaps it's wrong to think of EF-S as a stopgap format. It is fundamentally expensive to make cameras with big sensors, and the camera companies are getting better at making lenses to accompany small sensors (which have some advantages of their own).<br /> <br /> Many things to ponder, clearly.<br /> <br /> I think renting a few lenses, as suggested above, is a good idea. I will give them a weekend each and decide which, if any, are worth getting. That being said, further information is definitely welcome.</p>

<p>"how about a wider prime. 28 1.8? 24 2.8?"</p>

<p>Definitely an option, but I would probably eventually get a wide-angle zoom anyhow, and I doubt I would use them much then (of course, they would have weight and low-light advantages). I am trying to assemble a small set of lenses that will serve most purposes and provide high quality images for decades ahead. I don't want to be replacing any of these again (perhaps barring some marvellous new technology).</p>

<p>The 70-200 is also unbalanced on the Rebel XS - so much so that it makes the bottom of the camera/tripod plate really dig into your hip when it's at your side.</p>

<p>Still, the photos are worth it.</p>

<p>Also, one major reason I stick to the prime and the 70-200 is because the photos from them look better than those from my kit lens. That's why I am thinking seriously about a wide-angle zoom.</p>

<p>I see this as the lens that will mostly be the default for me, once I get it. The 70-200 would be there for nature stuff and some portraits, and a 50mm lens for dark places, but I would expect this to be the default in most situations.</p>

<p>“Based on that, I'm not sure it even makes sense for you to plan to switch to full frame.”<br /> <br /> One major attraction is being able to increase the ISO to absurd levels. I also think it makes more sense to invest in lenses that can be used on a wide variety of bodies. I still have some film SLRs that I use from time to time.</p>

<p>Rob,<br>

That's a good idea. I should try renting both before committing to either.<br>

Your photos are gorgeous, by the way.</p>

<p>“Where are you mostly shooting at with your kit lens? Are you closer to 18 or 55?”<br /> <br /> I almost never use the kit lens. 99% of the time, I use my 50mm prime or my 70-200 zoom.<br /> <br /> I only use the kit lens on the rare occassions where I want a really wide-angle shot.</p>

<p>“There is a LOT of difference between 16mm and 24mm. Either you need it or you don't.”<br /> <br /> It’s hard to know whether I would ‘need’ 16-24mm. The widest lenses I have generally used are 28mm.</p>

<p>Some other comparisons of these lenses:<br /> <br /> 16-35 vs 24-70<br /> http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00Clu8<br /> <br /> Which Lens next? mainly architectural + landscape<br /> http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00UVw1<br /> <br /> 16-35 or 24-70 for weddings and portraits<br /> http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/007gfq<br>

None really focuses on someone planning to go from an APS-C body to a full frame (though I will have to save up for a couple of years).</p>

<p>There are some radio trigger options between the very cheapest and the PocketWizards.</p>

<p>AlienBees makes receivers for around $60 and transmitters for $90. They don't have the range of PWs, but I have found mine to be useful and reliable.</p>

<p>Going with them let me set aside more for expensive, expensive lenses.</p>

<p>I only want to buy one of the two, ideally. Either one is a financial strain for a serious amateur with no prospect of selling work for profit.</p>

<p>I expect the lens to ultimately spend a lot more time on a full frame body than on my current interim APS-C body.</p>

<p>I've been told there is no chance of an IS version of this lens emerging soon.</p>

<p>I would certainly be rather annoyed if one came out a few months after I spring for the normal version.</p>

<p>I am in the process of building up what I hope will be a light and flexible dSLR system, to shoot all kinds of subjects. If you want to get a sense of what kind of projects interest me, you can take a look at my photos. Of course, I am open to trying new kinds of photography when the interest or opportunity arises.<br /> <br /> Once I get another lens or two, I will start saving for a 5D.<br /> <br /> I started with a Rebel XS body and the kit lens. I also have the 50mm f/1.8 and the 70-200 f/4L.<br /> <br /> Next, I want to get a L-series wide-angle lens. The 24-70 f/2.8L seems like an obvious choice. People also seem keen on the 16-35mm f/2.8L.<br /> <br /> Which lens is more worthwhile and versatile, both on a crop-sensor and a full-frame body? Is the range from 16-24mm more useful than the one from 24-70mm? I know it would be easy to put a 50mm prime in the middle there, but I don’t like changes lenses too often.<br /> <br /> I want to end up with a kit with 2-3 lenses and one body, suitable for travel and carrying around without the need for a massive case.<br /> <br /> Any thoughts would be appreciated.<br /> <br /> Milan</p>

<p>I also appreciate the flexibility. Ever since early versions of Dreamweaver, I have been distrustful of WYSIWYG generation of HTML.</p>

<p>Great work, congratulations!</p>

<p>Yesterday, I finally got my hotshoe-to-PC adapter and started enjoying my wireless triggering system:</p>

<p>http://picasaweb.google.com/milan.ilnyckyj/StudioExperiments20Jan09#</p>

<p>I look forward to learning a lot more about lighting.</p>

<p>Yesterday, I finally got my hotshoe-to-PC adapter and started enjoying my wireless triggering system:</p>

<p>http://picasaweb.google.com/milan.ilnyckyj/StudioExperiments20Jan09#</p>

<p>I look forward to learning a lot more about lighting.</p>

<p>It's a shame FlashZebra only offers such a slow shipping option to Canada.</p>

<p>I ordered my hotshoe-to-PC adapter last Tuesday and I am still waiting.</p>

<p>This page on the Sto-Fen website suggests that the same Omnibounce model is used for both flashes:</p>

<p>http://www.stofen.com/Products/Index.html</p>

<p>If you want to be extra sure, call them at (831) 427-0235.</p>

<p>My Rebel XS can certainly have trouble focusing. In some low light conditions, I use a bright light to illuminate the subject, let the camera focus, switch to manual focus, turn off the light, then take the shot.</p>

<p>That method probably won't work with wildlife.</p>