chrisb
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Posts posted by chrisb
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<p>I would share with you that in sub-tropical and tropical areas with humidity above 75-80% and the salinity in the air the potential for corrosion is a fact. I have lived in the South Pacific, about 15 degrees below the equator and I have witnessed many camera's from point and shoots to pro canon/nikon fail in a few weeks of exposure to this combination. This seems more frequent with the newer digital than older mechanical, (even those mechanical with internal metering). My M6 and Hassy bodies have done well, but I am obsessive and clean and wipe whenever they come back into the house with me. One last thing, I've seen cameras that were in air-conditioned rooms for the night sweat internally from condensation the next morning when taken outdoors into the environment if there is a 20-30 degree temp change with sufficient humidity present.<br>
Mantra " Clean, Wipe, Clean, Wipe"</p>
<p>Best Regards..</p>
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<p>Ken-<br>
I had a similar problem two years ago with my 80CF, there appears to be two sets of timing rings(gears) a slow speed and another for the higher speeds, my high-speed ring had malfunctioned. I sent my lens to Gil Ghitelman in CT for repair, it was back in a week. I have used Gil for the last 15 years, always pleased with his repairs,warranty and turnaround times, I can't speak to other repair services, but if I needed a repair tomorrow I would send it to Gil.<br>
Best regards</p>
<p> </p>
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I have used Gil Ghitelman at www.gilghitelman.com for the last fifteen years for Hasselblad bodies, lens and magazine CLA's and major repairs, I have had excellent service and he stands behind his warranties. I have also heard good things about David Odess, but have not used his service.
Best..
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Hello all, I am getting ready to replace a worn out Epson 2400 that was used for several years producing
alternative process negatives on Pictorico ultra premium OHP, has anyone used this material with the new 2880? I
am quite capable of adjusting the 2400 curves in photoshop, I am more concerned in the areas of banding, wheel
scuffs of other hardware/media issues.
Thanks in advance,
Christopher.
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I can speak to light leaks Hasselblad removable backs, If the light leak is from worn felt, or light trap material the fogging will be repeated in the same location on each frame. If the fogging occurs with irregularity, it could very well be from loose friction on the roll allowing light to creep in. In the latter case, the fogging may be larger and more pronounced at the outer frames, and less on those closest to the center (spool).
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Hello all, I will be traveling to NYC the first of April for a couple
of days, and would like to make pictures of the following sites:
1. GE building, exterior and interior
2. Brooklyn Bridge
3. St Patrick's Cathedral
4. Flatiron Bldg.
5. Washington Square Arch
Does anyone have recent experience on these locations, best time of
day or staging area to work from, I use both hand held medium format,
and 4x5 monorail on tripod, I carry personal and equipment insurance,
and work solo 99% of the time.
Are any of these locations off-limits, or require permitting from the
landlords or city of NYC.
Any help advice would be greatly appreciated.
Best Regards,
Christopher Bullinger
Photographer & Printer
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I have been very happy with the repair service Ghitelman cameras offers, I have and had several Hasselblad bodies, lens, and backs serviced over the years.
Best Regards,
Christopher Bullinger
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Hello all,
Recently I have been doing a fair amount of contact printing with 8x10 negs,
using a Sinar F2 and Sinaron-S 360 lens with new and qualified film holders only
to discover a increase in density in the last 1/64 of an inch on the neg
borders. The density appears to be fairly uniform and repeatable between film
holders over a wide range of apertures. The film holders exhibit no light leaks
symptoms, no edge fog, and in particular if I use the same setup, camera, film
holder, but use a Sinaron-S 210 the edge density is not visible. I am at a
loss, sure I could burn the edges of the contact for 3-4 minutes to correct the
problem, but what is the underlying cause?
Best Regards, Christopher...
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I have been a Hassy user for many years, for the last year attending a
photographic conservatory, shooting 4-5 rolls a day, developing film, printing
high quality, and critiqued twice a week. I have detected what appears to be
light fall-off at the edges that is most noticeable with high key images. These
are very demanding evaluations, and not what would be considered to offending
but to the demanding photographer or printer. Yes they can be corrected with
dodging and burning, my question is does anyone else see this issue with what
otherwise is an excellent lens?
Regards
Christopher.
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I think you may be refering to the threaded insert that is located in the mounting shoe of the
body. This insert, (on my 500c/m) is reversible to allow for two different thickness of stud
that will be found on tripods/studio stands.. You shoud contact a repair shop and have a
proper insert for your wonderful camera :}.
Regards,
Christopher.
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Thank you all for your responses, having experimented with smaller depth of field, with the 50, 80, 150 CF lenses I am now pleased with the Softar results.
BTW, I have corrected the source of my quote.
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I just purchased a new Softar I, and excitedly used it with my 50mm
CF lens,
but to my surprise I had a very pronounced glob like effect from the
filter,
not an overall softening I was expecting. Any comments on this
effect, or
have I purchased an expensive mistake.
Christopher C. Bullinger
A man hears what he wants to hear
and disregards the rest.
B. Dylan
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I am interested in the possibilities of using the Lindahl product
with my 503cw and 80mm / 150mm lenses. Does anyone have any
experience with this combination, looking for pros and cons
concerning durability and interface. Also, is there any other
product that I should look at that would provide the function of a
lens shade and allow for the mounting of filters and
vignettes?
thank you in advance.
Chris...
UV filter for 35mm Summicron M lens
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
<p>I use B&W 39E uv filters on my 35mm asph lens, IMHO using high quality filters like B&W which use lens quality glass is the best insurance policy you can buy for your expensive lens. I shoot 8-10 rolls a week and have rarely experienced any flare attributed to a filter. I use my camera day in and day out, in boardrooms and banana farms I have never(knock on wood)scratched a lens, but I have scratched a filter or two that was easily replaced. Your mileage may vary.</p>
<p>Best Regards...</p>