jeffrey_knight1
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Posts posted by jeffrey_knight1
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<p>Last time I shot two cameras at an event I had both of them on 'UpStraps.' My main camera body slung over my left shoulder, and hanging down on my left side, my secondary camera slung bandolier-style also over my left shoulder, but it was hanging down on my right. I actually found this a rather comfortable way of working, and neither camera got in the way of the other -- even at the reception when I had flashes mounted to both.</p>
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<p>I have to give a shout out to Joseph Leotta for saying something nice about every one of the entries here. Not that it's hard to say nice things about them, but there are so many. The effort is appreciated.<br>
And that goes the same for everyone else too. The quality of the images I see here week after week has just been astounding and inspirational. I look forward to the work next week.<br>
Jeff</p>
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<p>I shoot for Trotter Photo, one of the St. Louis area's largest wedding and portrait studios. Check out our website and have your friends give me a call.<br>
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<p>This lens is one of my favorites. Good chunk of my work is shot with it.<br>
Jeff Knight<br>
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<p>Nice photos, Gene. I liked the close-up of the pipe.</p>
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I don't think I can set the pop-up flash to manual on the 30d. At least, I've never tried (and why would anybody want to?). But setting the "master" hot-shoe flash onto manual mode (and dialing down the power) fires off the slaved 285 just like it should. Thanks again for all of your help.
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The ETTL thing was the problem. The flash fires fine when my on-camera unit was set on manual mode. Thanks for all the help. That was driving me crazy!
Jeff
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I'm having a problem firing the 285 with a peanut slave. Visually, I see that the flash is triggered when I fire,
but no light is being captured by the camera. I've fired at a variety of sync speeds, from 1/250th down to 1
second, and that doesn't seem to be the problem. I've held the flash mere inches from my subject and it still
barely registers. The 285 was set on 'M' mode.
The flash works fine on the camera's hot shoe, and when hooked up to the camera via a canon hot-shoe cord.
I'm using a canon 30d, ISO 400, f 5.6. I tried triggering the 285 both with a strobe mounted on the hot shoe as
well as the camera's pop-up flash. Both methods fired the 285, but I still wasn't getting an image.
Using the slave with another flash, it worked just fine. I tried both plugging the slave directly into the 285
(like you're supposed to be able to do) and using the flashes proprietary sync cord.
What's going on here? Is there some setting I'm missing or is something broke?
Thanks for your answers.
Jeff
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Fuji Superia 400. Scanned on my epson 3170 flatbed.
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I dropped my camera off at the shop for some TLC last week. It's funny how that thing can sit around for months without me glancing at it, but the moment I CAN'T use it, I miss it so. Still, I got a nice backlog of stuff I can clean up and post on Flickr to tide me over in the meantime.
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I gots me a Tokina 7-element 2x teleconverter.
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Whatever type of film I use (be it transparencies or negative), I like to use "faster" film, cause I think that best exploits one of the best qualities of the 35mm format-- its ability to be used handheld, quickly and nearly effortlessly. I think that allows the photographer to explore a subject a little more thoroughly than he or she might when the camera is clamped down to a tripod. You can climb up, squat down, and point your camera anywhere to get a shot. Shooting becomes a fast, fun affair with a lot of opportunities for compositional "improvisation."
Now having said that, I'm currently using ISO 25 film, and need to clamp my camera down when I shoot it. This allows me to slow down and take a more contemplative approach.
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I suppose one way is to figure out how much you make from customers on reorders on the average, and then charge more than that for the disk.
Nikon Wednesday Pic 2010: #46
in Nikon
Posted
<p>Thanks, Red. The grain's a little more evident when viewed at <a href=" (different image, but you get the idea). Still, the minimal agitation (aka almost none at all) associated with stand development is supposed to minimize the effect Rodinal has on grain while maximizing acutance and dynamic range. Downside it takes 1-2 hours to process a roll.<br>
And there's always some fine work from a lot of good photographers in this thread. I haven't posted anything in a while, but it's always a treat for me to come here and browse.</p>