emile_de_leon10
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Posts posted by emile_de_leon10
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ULF is a whole lotta fun with unbelievable results. Up to 7x17 the cameras are no big deal to carry around. After that everything gets bigger and more expensive. Plenty of cameras, film, lenses, and filmholders etc. around to purchase either used or new. Do it now before age or expense deters you! Good luck! Emile. www.deleon-ulf.com.
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I really like my 127mm f4.5 Optar. It is great for B&W. I've shot some color neg film with this lens and that was fine too. I would characterize this lens as a high resolution lens with a very well balanced tonality in B&W. Not overly contrasty, which I like. Easy to print with.The lens has very good character and some of my favorite prints came from it when I was shooting 4x5. Maybe your 135mm will be similar. You might want to consider the 90mm f6.8 Optar if you dont need a lot of moves as this will work great with the Crown. It is tiny. Perfect for backpacking. If you mostly shoot slide film you may want the super high contrast of the newer lenses. I would think it would be a good idea to shell out the big bucks for a fast aperture and biggest coverage with any wide angle esp. for the future if you really think you will need it, but I would try the Optar first.BTW the 90mm Optar f6.8 is around 100 bucks.
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The Focomat 1C type enlargers are great. Esp with the Focotar-2 lenses. Don't discount the Valoy-2 either, similar to Focomat but with no autofocus but very tiny. These enlargers have an advantage that few others have...they are permanantly aligned and have unbelieveable corner to corner sharpness, and if you use the said Focotar lenses you can print with them them wide open or close to it with no loss in quality. Ralph Gibson uses his focomat 1C this way. If you like Leica quality the same applies to these enlargers.
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It is one of the nicest cameras ever made... provided you can put up with it's idiosyncracies. I own a Tech V 2x3 and it takes stunning photographs. Get the black film backs only as the tan ones can't be serviced anymore by Marflex.
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Makes me want to consider getting the 53mm Biogon for my Linhof 2x3. But I've been shooting 7x17 lately with a 260mm WA Nikkor process lens and if you want to see evenness of illumination and knife point sharpness right to the edges, this lens is it.
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Noctilux is like an unusual and uniquely beautiful woman. Some will like and some will hate based on taste alone. If you are going to use a 50mm, no reason not to use the Noct except size. It is a fine performer all the way through its range. And it has the advantage of the choice of a different look based upon aperture selection. I like it for color esp. Like most beautiful women it does have its quirks though. A very small price to pay for "the look".It makes the M6 a unique picture taker, not just a... see how sharp my lens is camera.
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Try testing it with a second tripod against the front standard under the lens. This should be rock solid.Do this inside shooting out a window at near infinity then you will have your answer.
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Why not a tele Rollie TLR? Used or new...
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Sounds like you are a candidate for a Tri-elmar. That with a fast 50 or 35mm lens and the 15mm would cover a lot of ground at a light weight. Considering your lens setup at present with the emphasis on the 50mm why not just 35 and a 50mm summicrons as you like their renditions better. And add the 15mm if necessary. If you level it (the 15mm)out on a cup/glass/mini tripod the lens will exhibit less distortion. If it were my choice I would bring 1 body and a 15mm, a fast 35mm 1.4 Leica lens, and the new 90 macro for portraits and closeups and maybe another body for B&W preferably MF.
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Another vote for a Brooks Veriwide 100 w/47mm f8. Test it first to make sure it is up to par. Watch for lens separation and pay a little more for Ex++/mint if you can find someone willing to get rid of theirs. I'll never get rid of mine. Make sure to get a good clean front section to the camera as these do not take a hit there very well. Have Ken Ruth do the cla on it as he is an expert on these cameras.
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I own and use Xenotars in the 135mm f3.5 and the 80mm f2.8 versions. They are short on image circle but have an excellent sharp rounded image quality and even wide open they are ok. Can't beat the bright focusing aperture.I would not hesitate to buy them.
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If it were me I would take an M6 and 15mm for interiors and extreme WA shots and the 35mm 1.4 asph, both for color.Each with a different look. And if I went insane for a moment the Noctilux too but probably not because of the weight...but what a look at f1! Also a MF camera for B&W. Either a TLR or a Brooks veriwide for the mountains. FYI they are at war over there.... the Maoists vs the Govnt. It's not that safe so be careful.
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Try a Noctilux or a 50mm DR Summicron on it and you will love it even more! Go up to a 5x7 or 8x10 camera size with a contact print and you will question why you even bother printing B&W with the Leica anymore except in wide open/dim light circumstances or in color. That said if you use Kodak Tech pan with a DR 50mm or older 90mm, I dont think there will be a better combination for grainless 11x14 portraits as the newer lenses tend to be so, so clinically sharp and contrasty...not the best for beauty.
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Kent,
I have a Leica 100mm Focotar 5.6 on my enlarger right now and it is probably the best of it's type ever made.It came with the later 2c's.
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$400.00 to $600.00 difference between the 100mm Focotar and the V-Elmar. The focotar-2 blows the V-Elmar away and is worth the extra money.
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I did a quick and dirty hand held comparison test of the Tri elmar, a 75mm 1.4 amd a 35 1.4 asph in the local Leica shop with Kodachrome.These were at different apertures and focal lengths of the same subject....The tri elmar came in noticably last...maybe it was this particular lens but the color seemed duller on the tri elmar than the others. It just did not seem as contrasty either. Still an ok lens for what is was intended...nice convienent package. The 75mm 1.4 looked the best to my eye....smooth!!
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Canon Powershot A70, the more I use it the more I like it!
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There is a 11x14 Deardorff studio camera w8x10 back on Ebay right now cheap. If I had a room big enough I would like one of these...HUGE w/stand. There are a couple of Heliars too in the 360 to 420mm range with fast apertures that will have the look you perhaps would like. Soft/sharp. Good luck!
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Why not start off on the cheap with a 2x3 speed graphic and save yourself a ton of money.Buy some good lenses.You can even put a biogon on it. After you see if you like the format then you can decide if you want to spend the big bucks but I would try before I buy with the more expensive equip. BTW the Speed graphic is very light and a great first 2x3 camera capable of producing wonderful images. But then again so is your M7.
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Looks like the Nikkor lens kicks butt! I'd do more tests though.
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You could get a 12x20 outfit for that kind of cash...Hmmm
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You could get a 12x20 outfit for that kind of cash...
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Get the asph 35 lux if you can only get 1 lens and you want it small. Or better yet put up with the size of the 35mm 1.2 Voightlander and get yourself into Noct territory for a pittance.
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It's obvious that you are a perfectionist and have much to say in that arena. Now perhaps for some guts and substance.... A little pain perhaps? A little chaos? Fun? sorrow? Wierd? Lighten up man! Let it all hang out.I want to see your humanity! What do you really want to communicate? What are you really trying to say? What are your fears? If you only had one more photograph to take for the rest of your life what would it be? Only you can answer that one man. You might alter your approach in some way or another(lighting perhaps) to express yourself more fully. That said I like your work a lot and hope you do really well! No question about your talent here. All the best!
Need advice for Beginner in 6X9 format. LINHOF or BESSA II . Users/Owners pls.. educate me !!
in Medium Format
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