mark_haflich

I will be going out to the Dry Tortugas next Monday through Wens.

Will be staying on a large boat. What can I expect re wildlife

during that time? Any recommendations as to where to go and times of

day? We are not divers and while we plan to snorkle off the Dry

Tortugas National Park, we will not be doing any underwater

photography. Primary emphasis will be bird photography on dry (no

pun intended) land. Have long lenses etc. Also how is Anihinga

(forgive spelling if incorrect) trail this time of year? If OK, will

plan on being there at sunrise Sunday morning. Am very very familar

with the Keys but not with Dry Torgus re bird photography shooting.

Now ask me about the underwater ecology of the Dry Tortugas, no

problem. Am an author of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary

Final Environmental Impact Statement as well as the recent Final

Environmental Impact Statement for the Sanctuary boundary expansion

to the west and south of Dry Tortugas National Park and creation of

the underwater Dry Tortugas Ecological Reserve. Call me a coral

hugger. Blame me for all the regulations too.

The more people who can view wildlife without causing any behavioral modifications of same, the better for species and habitat preservation. Not to mention eco dollars for Alaska. Bears fishing amd gorging themselves on fish care less than nothing about eco tourists. That's all most of us are. Eco tourists with expensive toys.

see info on these lenses at www.birdsasart.com Shoot Nikon myself.

Eagle are available all over. There is a nice nest in Coral Gables, Florida where there are always, always a couple of photographers waiting with long lenses for the eagle to fly in and land. There is a minimum distance one must stay away (150ft, I think--there is a sign posted by the DOI telling you how far you must remain away). The main problem with shooting nesting eagles is that the eagles like to nest higher than anything else in the vacinity. I have never observed a nest below or anywhere near my elevation. There are lots of places in Alaska where eagles come to ground, but nest at lower than photographer level? I have never seen it.

The Wimberly flash bracket does not require that you use the Wimberly head. It attaches easily (and that is much of the simplicity and beauty of it) to any arca swiss plate used for long lenses. It clamps onto the plate (no bolts or screws--just twist a knob). Although, IMHO the Wimberly head is the best long lens head out there. As to whether one should be using the Wimberly head - it is heavy but is a joy to use and gives great results especially with large bird flight shots. The mass of the head and wrapping you arm on it and pushing your body up to it really sinks those nasty vibrations that my Nikon long lenses can not deal with like those Canon IS lenses many other wildlife shooters chose to own do.

What a nice discussion. This is what this site is all about. I did not mention it but you should also get a flash bracket so that your flash is not mounted on the cameras shoe. You want to get the flash off axis a bit to avoid things like red eye. You will also need a flash extension cord to go between the shoe an the flash. The best bracket I have seen is the new one by Wimberly. It is available from Wimberly, from Morris and others. I believe Moose talks about it on his site. It is really neat.

From my experience, the duration of the flash is so short it rarely if ever spooks anything, bird or mammal. You do need a flash extender. See Arthur Morris's page BirdsAsArt.com for the one to buy (he sells them for about the same price as other suppliers.) I forgot the name but have owned both the brand he sells and the competition and there is no question, the brand he sells is the best. Real simple to use and it packs absolutely flat. If you are shooting Nikon just set the flash to TTL and dial in -1/3 or - 2/3 compensation and your home. You might want to read Moose Peterson's page on using fill flash. You can also get real creative and under expose the background (stop down the main settings on the camera and let the "fill" make it up). The key is to experiment and keep notes. Your art will expand and you will be making bird pictures rather than just taking them. Have fun.

See nikonusa.com for announcement and some details of these new models. The D1X will be hands at at PMI this weekend. The usual digital camera sites have more details. Nikon seems to have addressed several of the problems with the D1. It looks like a D1X for me for my nature shooting. I can live with 3 FPS and 9 continous. Seems the image pixel improvement alone makes up for the fater speed 5fps and 21 of the OLD D1. Street price estimated at $5500.

Steve. E-mail me if you like. I did a 3 week trip several years ago with photography as the emphasis. However, this site is not the travel channel and I suspect one of the moderators will quickly be deleting this thread.

You can lock the sensor by using the lock buttton on the flapped panel on the back of the camera. If you are shooting in the dark with a flash it is all too easy to bump the rocker switching fom the center sensor to one of the four sensors on the extremities and then the camera won't fire because of the flash assist beam not being detected. To me the F5 "feels" better than the F100. The F100 "feels" very "plasticy" (not a word) in comparison. To me it feels cheap. I bought a second F5 as my back up because of this. Also if the first F5 fails, I do not have to go to a lesser camera (I need all the help I can get) and the camera being the same to familiarize myself with the different controls. The main downside to me is that the F100 being ligher it is easier to handle when doing bird flight shots with a 400mm F5.6 or the new 80-400VR. For what it matters, when the D2 comes out I will probably stop shooting film. The cost savings in film and processing for a 3-week safari of a 5 day IPT (Arthur Morris) shoot would pay for the camera.

My dealer called on October 30, 2000 and told me my 80-400 VR was

here and to come and get it. I will pick it up today, October

31,2000. According to Nikon the lens will be in very short supply

until after new years with most dealers being allocated only one per

store and not all stores will get even one. I will shoot a couple of

rools handheld this weekend (migratory birds on my pond etc) both

with VR on and off. Review to follow.

My long lens is a Nikon 400 2.8 AF-I which I use extensively with a Nikon TC-14E or a TC-20E. I have shot approximately 8000 slides while on Safari in Kenya and Tanzania mostly from vehicles and using only a couple of bean bags. Vibration is not a problem--very fey shots are blurry except related to too slow a shutter speed for the subject's motion. I find very little image deterioration with the TC-20E and AF is preserved (5.6). For me I can live with an 800 5.6 instead of 840 5.6 (a 600 with a 1.4). One big lens is all you can shlep on a plane and having a fast 400 (2.8), a fast 560 (4) and the 800 5.6 provides the maximum amount of long lenses. The trick is having a vehicle with few other passsengers (my wife) and a driver who sits still. My wife who shoots a Canon XL-1 (video) and I can both shot unless I am changing lenses (i.e., adding, subtracting, or changing TCs). Me loading film causes her some problems. Now when Nikon comes out with a 600 4.0 VR I will buy it for domestic bird shoots just because Arthur Morris says I should and I trust him. I shall see how useful it is. My 80-400 VR is coming later this month and I believe the VR will be very useful because I will use it for handheld flight shots. Evidently my hands shake at 55 years but I don't rattle or roll. I was playing with some Canon IS binoculars the other day and the IS really improved my viewing (wildlife). I can't believe how much my hands shake when holding a couple of pounds at eye level.

My dealer (Industrial Photo in Silver Spring, Maryland)just called and

said my Nikon 80-400VR lens was expected in this month and that my

cost would be $1499 plus tax. Now if Nikon will just come out with an

600mm F4 VR lens and a 400mm F2.8 VR.

Does anyone have a clue as to when nikon 80-400 VR lens will be available?

Two years ago I spent about 5 days hubbing out of the Holiday Inn (the one at the southern end of the Lagoon). Arthur Morris in his seminal book on bird photography mentions this inn as a place where one can park and obtain access to the Lagoon. I think I asked for a corporate rate (all these places have special rates below the expensive "rack" rate). Fort Myers has a webb site listing lots of hotels. If you are intending to hub out of the Fort Myers beach area--the southern area of the Lagoon is not ideal. The Lagoon road is slow (a lane in each direction). The north end is more convenient (to Sannibel and even to Venice to the north, the rookery should not be missed but it is a long drive even from the north end). You can always drive to the Holiday Inn and walk to the Lagoon if you are going to shoot there for one or two days.)

 

Without intending any disrespect to Shun, I really do not understand the comment of the moderator. The purpose of the trip as stated is bird photography at the Lagoon and at Sannibel. Logistics for a nature photography trip in MHO(now that's a trip using those initials) is clearly an appropriate subject for this forum. Asking those that have been there for "nature shooting" for a recommendation as to an affordable place to stay is not a question that should be stricken. In MHO this forum should be and I think is a place where all can go to seek advice and exchange views re topics related to nature photography, including trip logistics. A question asking where to stay to get a tan in Fort Myers should be stricken. This question where the stated purpose of the trip is bird photography and the criteria for the recommendation is walking to the photo site and an affordable place should not be stricken or be limited to a very short life. Once again, I am not trying to beat on the moderators, they do a thankless job, for which we all should often say THANKS.

I believe the lens comes with a 52mm plain glass element and holder to be used when a filter is not being used. On the AF-D version of this lens, I once shot for a week without this element or a filter in place without any noticeable deterioration in image quality. However, why take a chance? Carry a blower bulb with soft brush for cleaning any dust off the front element. One of those new miracle fiber lens cleaning cloths will work fine to remove finger prints or mist. Good luck.

Weather--impossible to predict in advance will dictate what would have been your optimum choice. The last time we went to Denali we took a van ride from Anchorage at the crack of dawn and it rained the whole way. However, the weather at the park gate was great, a quick lunch at the park hotel, and the highlight of the whole Denali trip--the Camp Denali/North Face Lodge Mercedes bus ride in. A long, thankfully slow trip in, stopping to see everything and stopping for a smoked salmon picnic supper. This is nothing like the Park buses. The Camp Denali/North Face operation only fills each bus about 1/3 full so there is lots of room to spead out, everybody has a window seat etc. The ride back to the gate is a race to get there for the train back to Anchorage (the bus stops for only something really special and the stops are quick)--an awful train ride to be avoided at all costs. I would stay near the Park gate (a 100 miles away is way too far considering the many hours you will be on the Camp Denali bus). The whole area is scenic and you will have lots of photographic opportunities when driving in on the bus. The first day down the Park paved road may indeed yield some wildlife shots. When you get to Camp Denali you can ask them to take you back into the Park (they are grandfathered with rights of bringing their clients back into the Park) The other operators only can transport their clients to their lodge and back to the gate. The Camp Denali people will provide you with a lunch and a pick up spot and time. If the weather is good a trip back to Wonder Lake can yield some spectacular scenic shots. Have a great trip.

Thanks to all who responded. Mid February it will be. Thanks for the suggestion re St Augustine Michael. Checking the past threads (to the moderators--yes there is a Santa Claus)it would appear that mid-February would be too early for the St Augustine Alligator Farm rookery. Some say March-April, Art Morris says don't go before May. Some say late May too late. I guess some day I will do it around May 1.

I have an opportunity to go on a 5-day IPT bird shoot in SW Fla

(Sanibel Fish Pier, Ding Darling, Venice Rookery, Little Estero

Lagoon, and Corkscrew) with Arthur Morris either in Mid February or

Mid March. I have been to these locations except for Corkscrew. I

enjoyed Venice the best but had good shooting at all of them. I know

its impossible to predict which of these two times will be best, but

I would appreciate any insights you may have as to which time period

might be better. Given that I am from the Mid Atlantic (MD) February

offers the better weather relief for me (likely cold in MD--warm and

nice in SW Fla) and a tie means Mid Feb. Thanks in advance for your

help on this.

My how we stray from a simple request for info on a new lens. Now we have evolved (partly my fault) to what is the best lens to have. The bottom line is that many of us can't afford or can't carry (because of flight restrictions or whatever (back packing)) a large number of lenses. From my limited experience, when in Africa on safari you can bring about one big lens (and getting that through undamaged is no small feat). A 400mm F2.8 with a 1.4x and a 2x does it all. Given the shaking that goes in in a safari vehicle (just me and my wife shooting and a driver (sometimes with the engine running)) an IS or VR couldn't hurt. Hand held? Forget it it. Propped up on bean bags etc yes and moving it quickly to follow an animal, yes. A 100-400 or 80-400 IS or IR to do almost everything else, yes including some handheld. Three lenses (a small 24-120 is the 3rd) and 2 tele conv and a set ot tubes and I'm almost flight legal. The carry on bag for the 400 2.8 and 100-400 or 80-400 will be too heavy. If someone complains, stuff the lenses all in your big vest pocket on the back, shove the film in your vest (a couple of hundres rolls) in the carry on, then repack after you get on. It looks stupid with that bulge on the back (boy does my wife complain if she has to do something like that), but it fits me (in general stupid looking) and it works.

There really is no info available re this lens except what is on Nikon's web site. I have a $200 deposit on the first one my dealer gets (I trust the dealer to charge a me a fair price--I have done lots of business with him). If the lens I get doesn't perform well because of QC problems, the dealer and Nikon will replace it. I had an early F5 and Nikon treated me very well when it had some problems (completely overhauled it and cleaned for free after a month long shoot in Tanzania-the problems were minor). The Nikon lense will not work with the 14B and 14E teleconverters (because it isn't an I or S designation lense (the canon 100-400 IS will work with the Canon teleconverters). Some Canon shooters have gotton good results with the 1.4x tele and the 100-400 IS at 400 making it a 560 F8 (slow but usable especially pushing the new slide films a couple of stops). You will not be able to do that with the Nikon. In Africa I take a 24-120, a 80-200mm F2.8 AF-S (primarily for elephant shots) and a 400 F2.8 AF-I (and shoot it most often with a 1.4). Use a 2x with it for small bird shots. So I guess I use a 560mm F4 most frequently while on Safari shoots. The Nikon won't do it for me in Africa because of the tele incompatibility but I wil take it in leu of the 80-200 and I will use it more than I ever use the 80-200. A big plus also is having a 400mm hand held "toy lens" (as A. Morris would call it) for flying bird shots. Goodby to my fixed 400mm F5.6 Tokina as well as to the 80-200. All I need for the future is a 400mm F2.8 AF-S VR lens from Nikon to keep me really happy in Africa--it will come and I bet within a year or two. Also a 600mm F4 AF-S VR for my retirement days in Florida. I will file a shooting results report on the 80-400 lens when I get it. Knowing Nikon (it always always late in getting any quantity of a new product out) I expect to get it before years end, probably not much before.

There are times when I want to fire off a burst--could be the whole roll of 36 in 4.5 secs. Not often but the occasions are there, Try stalking (by vehicle) a cheetah stalking pray for a couple of days. When the chase and kill occur it happens fast. Move the lense as fast as you can to follow the action and squeeze off the whole roll. Ever see a wildebest give birth and a family of hyenas move in to get the calf, the mother tries to fend off the hyenas, and a female lion runs in and grabs the calf? I've only seen it once but the whole roll went in about 8 secs. Its better to have it available and not need to use it than to not have it. I've also wasted shots when I've pressed the shutter release too hard (wanted to take 1 pic and got 3). But that's pilot error.

The Morris book is great. See the thread on it in the archives.

Now that Nikon is coming out with a zoom IS lens, anybody have an inkling about AF-S telephotos with IS. The Olympics are coming in the fall and Nikon usually introduces a telephoto for use there by photo journalists. A 400mm 2.8 with IS would be great for sports photographers and for wildlife photographers with a 1.4x or 2x. Anybody hear anything?

I have had about 9 wks in Kenya/Tanzania over the last couple of years. Used an 80-200 for elephant photos. Everything else used my trusty AF-I 400 2.8 alone, or with either a 1.4 or a 2x. Most often used the 1.4 so most shots taken with a 560. Except for birds and shooting a cheetah or cheetahs hunting, a 500mm will be sufficient. I bought my safari company president in Tanzania a SIGMA 170-500 and while a little slow the zoom will cover it all. Push some of the new slides films a couple of stops and you should have enough speed for almost anything. Put a $30 flash extender on you flash and use it for early dawn late toward sunset shots of animals. Use a bean bag or two and try one of those groofwins with a bean bag for shooting out the window. You will do fine. Have a great trip.