joe_choi1

Too many to choose from... Hmmmm...

 

* 35mm - M6

* MF - Bronica RF 645

* LF - Horseman 45FA

Just curious, where did you find this deal? Where was the add? I'm looking for one myself and curious what the prices are.

Thanks,

As always, I greatly appreciate and thank your all for your replies. I'll look into your suggestions...

Thanks,

Anyone else have other suggestions? I open to other brands and models. Thanks again for you help.

CPeter, thank you for your suggestion. I'll look into 1297 but 1227 sadly is bit out of my price range but I might just follow up on it. $300 for $700 tripod what a deal! Which model is it?

 

Jefferey, I would love to sell you my 190Pro but since I'm currently living in Seoul South Korea because of a client project, it's going to cost you more in shipping charges than saving you money for buying it used. Sorry...

Hi,

I need your expert advice. I currently own Manfrotto 190Pro with 141RC. I

believe this setup weighs around 3.2kg. I took this to my trip to Europe for

3 weeks and found out very quickly it was too heavy to carry around for an

entire day. I only go on those trip couple times a year but I do go on 1 or 2

day trips often (these trips I mostly walk and hike). So I got to thinking

that I need to slim down on my total weight that I carry. Since I can�t leave

my cameras and lenses at home I figured the most logical thing to do is to get

a lighter tripod. This is what I�m looking for. A tripod that definitely

weighs less than 2.3 or 2.5kg or even less would be better. It needs to be

able to firmly support my Hasselblad 500c/m with 80mm and sometimes my EF70-

200 IS. Since I�m only 170cm(5?? tall, I guess it should be around 120-

140cm tall without center column extended. Lastly cost, the budget I was

thinking of is around $500 and of course less is better ^^. When I went to

the shop they suggested Gitzo G1298 Basalt. Does any of you have any

experience with Basalt tripod? How does CF differ or compare with Basalt in

weight, support stability, etc. Do I need to be spending more money or should

I just suck it up and carry my current tripod? Please help and your

assistances are always greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Joe

Thank you all for your response, I greatly appreciate it. I'll look into your suggestions. Where would I find out more about MIS and where do I purchase it?

Thanks,

Sorry but I forgot the model numbers are different around the world. RX650 is probably called RX700 in US. Please, I currently don't have my mind set on one particular model or multitask unit.

Thanks again.

Hate to bother everyone but it has been very difficult for me to find

an exact answer to my question from previous discussions. So here I

go and hope those of you who have more expertise will be kind enough

to help me.

 

I need help in buy my first photo printer and a scanner. I mostly

take B&W 35mm, 120mm MF and occasional slide pictures and I also do

take pictures with my 20D of my wife and my family. My wife would

like to use the printer for casual purpose to put it in a frame around

the house, give it to friends and family members etc. We would mostly

print 4x6, 5x7 and maybe some 8.5x11 but probably nothing bigger. But

my wife is kind of picky about picture quality but than again we are

not ready to pay $800-$1000 for a printer. I would also like to use

the printer to print some B&W since my local darkroom that I rent has

gone out of business and I have not had the chance to or have decided

to make my own darkroom. I have heard that some printers you can buy

B&W inkset/system? Something called MIS or Lyson? Does this work for

any old printer or does it have to be specific like 6 or 8 ink

cartridge printer.

 

As I was thinking about printers I figured I need buy a scanner so I

can scan my B&W and slide films to be printed. I was hoping to get

something that will scan both 35mm & 120mm.

 

So here are my questions. Should I consider one of those multitask

printers like Epson RX650 or get a separate printer and scanner?

RX650 uses 6 ink cartridges, 5760 dpi, 3200x6400 dpi for scan��

whatever this means it sound good or does it? Anyone have experience

with RX650 or RX630? Does Lyson/MIS work on RX650? I��m not set on

RX650 at all but it sounds like it give high dpi. For my purpose,

which one 6 vs. 8 ink cartridge (can you tell the difference) and what

dpi? How many dpi is needed for good scanner? I was thinking to

spend around $300-600 for both printer and scanner. Is this

reasonable? I hope my questions make sense and hopefully you experts

out there can give some assistance. Specific brand and model would be

appreciated. Thank you in advance for your response and I apologize

for long explanation.

Thanks everyone for your insights and wonderful pictures (WOW). I'm thinking to get Mini II since I have not seen results from Mini III or T4/T5. But what I have seen for Mini II it's awesome for a P&S. By the way anyone compare lens quality or picture quality of Mini II Elmar vs Mini III Summar? Thanks everyone for your help.

 

Joe

I need help from you experts again. I'm thinking to get a P&S for

those times when I don't feel like carrying a RF even though I have

compact camera CL. A friend of mine has a Mini II and the pictures

look great in both color and B&W. So I'm thinking to get one for

myself but I noticed that there were 3 models made. I search

photo.net and everywhere else on the web but there's no detail

description or comparison of these 3 models. Can someone tell me

what the differences are between the 3 in features/functions, built

quality, lens quality, etc.? Also, any suggestion on which one I

should get? Or does it matter much which one I get? I'm pretty sure

that Mini I & II has Elmar lens where as III has Summar (what's

Summar?). I appreciate any insights or experience anyone might have.

As always, thank you for contributions.

Thanks Jim for the suggestion. You are definitely right, I need to play around with both lenses so that I can get the exact feel of what each lens length offers. I have been so used to using zooms that my eyes are not quite trained know what each lens offers.

Thank your all for your replies. I know I have 2 40mm, I'm planning on selling Nokton 40mm and R3A once I have enough money for a M6. So CL was built to only focus upto 0.8m and there's nothing wrong with my 50mm cron. And it's normal for 50mm cron's focus dial to go beyond the 0.7m markings. That's great to know. To a newbie like myself CL seems to be a very well made little RF. I'm going to test out Nokton vs Cron and see if I can notice the difference between the 2 lenses.

 

How about my question "Just for test I tried to make the subject out of focus very slightly to see where the distance marking ends up. And the dials goes beyond 0.8m. I have also tried the same test with R3A and 50mm cron with same amount of out of focus and it only goes to little over 0.7m." Is this normal and why this happens?

 

Thank you once again for your responses.

I'm new to RF and have been using R3A wit Nokton 40mm for couple of

the months. Now I have decided to get a taste of Leica world so I

have just purchased CL (like new) with 40mm Rokkor and also 50mm

Summicron. Yes, most of you are thinking why buy 40 & 50? 40mm came

with CL, but I have heard a lot of great things about the 40mm Rokkor

so I might be keeping it or should I sell it and get a 35mm once I

have the money? Sorry, I'm getting off track. Here's my question

for you experts. My 50mm cron is the latest version with built in

hood, I bought it used. But what I noticed is that when I turn the

focus ring it turns past 0.7m and I can see the lens moving forward

as well. But the funny thing is no changes to the focus on the

viewfinder for CL. I have also tried this with R3A and same result

on the viewfinder. Just for test I tried to make the subject out of

focus very slightly to see where the distance marking ends up. And

the dials goes beyond 0.8m. I have also tried the same test with R3A

and 50mm cron with same amount of out of focus and it only goes to

little over 0.7m. Now is this normal? Is my CL or 50mm cron faulty

or defect? I hope my questions make sense and hope you experts can

help me out.

Thanks,

Being new to RF, I'm currently using VC R3A until I can buy M body.

But before. I'm planning on buying some Leica lenses first. Here's

my question, I have heard that Summicron 50mm DR or Ridge doesn't fit

on R3A, is this true? I have heard that it goes into the mount but

doesn't turn to lock to the body. Please help out the newbie.

Thanks,

Thank you everyone for your responses, so I guess it's not the camera but me :D. As everyone has suggested I need to start playing around more in PS. By the way I use my custom parameter settings with sharpess 2+, contrast 1+, saturation 1+ and color tone 1+. And Jean thanks for the offer but I live in Washington D.C. and currently working out of Seoul Korea on an assignment.

 

Joe

Hi, Let me start off by saying that I consider myself a newbie to

photography. I bought 20D with 16-35mm and 70-200mm IS lenses as my

first digital SLR about 4 months ago after much research. Initially

I was very happy with the camera and the lenses. But for past couple

of weeks/month I have noticed that my pictures are coming out

significantly soft and the colors seem to be somewhat flat. Maybe is

the condition/weather that I happen to be shooting or does my camera

need to be sent back to service? Does anyone having this issue?

When I see pictures others have posted, pictures seem very sharp and

the colors are so vibrant. Maybe there is nothing wrong with the

camera and I just need to keep on practicing? Or do I need to be

using Photoshop to get that kind of quality? I really appreciate any

comments, answers and help that you can give to this newbie.

Thanks,

 

Joe

Hi, I just got my brand new 20D with 16-35 & 70-200 IS lenses. I

have not had chance to play with them but very excited considering

this my first DSLR/DSLR system... But one thing is really bothering

me, on my 70-200 IS (with IS on) everytime I focus on an object it

makes a "click" sound and some type of motor turning sound and

another "click". Is this normal? It sounds pretty loud, anyone have

any experience with this? Should I be returning my lense?

 

One more thing I would like your feedback as to if I have made a good

choice on my equipment considering this is my very first "real"

DSLR/SLR... This is what I got Canon 20D, 16-35mm f/2.8 L, 70-200mm

f/2.8 IS L, Sandisk Extreme 1GB CF card, and Hoya 77mm HMC UV

filter. My main photography is portrait of my family,

travel/sightseeing photo, little lanscape and my friends baseball

games. Considering this did I get the right equipment? Don't have

much money left in my budget but anything else I would need or should

get? Should I have gotten the 2GB CF card? I still have little

reservation about getting a 20D instead of Nikon but I really like

Canon (I own F1). Anyway any feedback or recommendation would be

greatly appreciated like maybe I should have gotten different or

extra lense, different brand of filter or CF card, etc. Thank you

all for your input.

I have recently bought a Konica II off eBay since it looked kinda

interesting. But since I'm new to RFs and can't find any information

about this particular Konica (I was able to find information on

Konica III), does anyone know anything about this RF? I would

appreciate any insight that anyone can give. Thank you in advance.

 

Joe

Jim, I also noticed that B&H has the same lens as $285 for import and $299 for USA? Is there any difference between the two? I know there's a difference in warranty but does it really make that much difference? If I do decide to buy from B&H which one should I get?

 

As for my initial posting everyone is saying it's not worth it since there's a flaw in the lens... so I should send it back... Also, since my 620 doesn't have a good AF that could be causing the problem with AF in low light... Ok... thanks everyone for you input. Please let me know if I misunderstood.

I have just bought a used 50mm f1.4 USM from eBay and I'm using my

Canon EOS 620 body with it. But I notice that the lens is having

hard time with auto focus, going in and out trying to focus. Is this

because of the lens or the body? The lens is suppose to be about

2yrs old and has a small bubble in the rear element. Did I get a bad

used equipment, I bought it for about $240? Would the bubble affect

my picture quality? Should I return it and buy a new one instead?

Is it time for me to get a new body, any recommendations? As a side

note what are some of your favorite lenses for lanscape, portrait and

architecutre in EF lenses, I'm trying to build up my EF lenses? As

always, thank you for your help.

 

Joe Choi

Everyone thank you for the information. It'll help me greatly when making my decisions. Andrew, thank you for the websites it's very helpful.

I have decided to play around with my father's FL QL camera that I

have been neglecting for long time and thinking to buy some new

lenses. Now my question is since FL can handle both FD or FL lens,

which model should I get? FD vs FL which has better quality and

better investment value and better picture sharpness, clearity, etc.

Lastly, which FD or FL lenses would you recomment? As always thank

you for your help...

I agree with what you are saying but if you had a choice between FL vs FD which lens would you invest in and why?

What about FL vs FD is there any quality difference in picutre? Of course I'll never buy these items hoping that the price will go up but my pure enjoyment...