leigh_marrin

Gordon, I got the lens apart! Well, I removed the front ring and front lens cell thanks to your excellent instructions and photo. For a lens

spanner I used the ID-measuring prongs on a junky vernier calipers--worked great, and no damage to the calipers.

 

 

I can now see the edges of the iris leaves, but what next? Were I to flood them with naptha, I'll probably stain the rear cell--is it as easy to

remove and clean?

 

 

Anyhow, thanks again. FWIW, the front cell of my 50mm f1.4 looks like it will cover most of a 4x5 image area; may tape it to the front of my

Speed Graphic, and see what results.

Jeff and Gordon, thanks very much for the quick replies. I'm a little timid about opening up the lens--don't have a lens

spanner, so may just try to find another 50mm f1.4.

 

 

Another question--my 50mm f1.4 FL lens has quite a yellowish cast to it, unlike my other FD and FL lenses. Is this normal?

<p>I figure a B&J back would be much easier to find than an older Korona 4x5 back. If anyone has a 4x5 B&J field view camera, please let me know and I'll dig the Korona out of storage and will measure the back's dimensions.</p>

<p>A year ago I bought a 4x5 Korona view camera with an old uncoated 7" Dagor lens for $200 from a local Craigslist ad. It is missing the extension; the bellows are light-tight, but somewhat stiff. When I took it home I realized it had a 3.25x4.25 reducing back on it! I have some old 3x4 holders and outdated Efke PL100 3x4 film, but have not used it yet.<br>

<br />I'd like to find a 4x5 back for it, but have not found one yet. Any idea if the wooden 4x5 B&J field camera back can be easily fitted to the Korona?<br>

<br />Thanks. --Leigh.</p>

<p>I recently bought a Canon Pellix that has a 50mm f1.4 FL lens, an early version of the f1.4 lens with a serial number in the 48,000 range. On the Pellix body this lens would not stop down, in either the A or M mode. I replaced it with a 50mm f1.8 FL, which works perfectly.</p>

<p>Looking at the 50mm f1.4, the glass and body are in good shape--no external visible problems. Comparing the rear pin that actuates the iris on my f1.8 and f1.4, both have the same amount of spring tension. But the f1.4 won't stop down...</p>

<p>I suppose it's unlikely, but I'm hoping there is an easy fix for this problem; any suggestions? Assuming it requires a repair tech to fully disassemble it to fix the frozen aperture, is the early version of the 50mm f1.4 really worth fixing?</p>

<p>Thanks for any info and suggestions. --Leigh.</p>

<p>A year ago I picked up a much-used Kiev 60 and have come to like it very much, even though its film counter is broken and film spacing is so wide only ten 6x6cm frames end up on a 120 roll. Well worth the $65 I paid for it. No light leaks or film scratch issues, unlike most of my other Russian cameras. Its 80mm lens is sharp, the front-placed shutter release is in the right place for me, and the eye-level prism is fairly bright. Flash synch is only 1/30th, BUT if you set it to too high of a speed, the flash is locked out, so while you may waste a frame, you have a reminder to set it to the correct speed. My Leica M2 and several 35mm focal-plane reflexes don't have that feature. While its mirror does not auto-return after exposure, the darkend viewfinder is quick reminder to wind the film & reset the mirror. But if you want near-perfection? ...well, don't buy a Russian camera; they ALL have quirks.</p>

<p>Kris, there are a couple of modern daylight tanks that will do six sheets of 9x12cm film. While it is no longer made, there are a lot of Jobo 2521 tanks that use a Jobo 2521 reel for six sheets of either 6x9cm, 9x12cm or 4x5". I use one for both 4x5 and 9x12cm--holds about 1500cc, and can be inverted. While a Jobo 2521 on eBay might go for $150, there are a lot of them around--I've found a couple at thrift stores for much less.<br>

Another invertable daylight tank in current production is the Combiplan--listed for about $90 in the current FreeStyle catalog. I'd suggest avoiding the old-style Yankee tanks--I've read most users get uneven development.<br>

My "taco method" sheet film development has been variable in results, and I really like the consistent results of the Jobo 2521 tank.</p>

<p>Maybe for a Reflex-Korrelle? It used a 40.5mm thread for its interchangeable lenses. But that conical shape is really weird..</p>

Yes, if your camera will fit a Zeiss 665/7 holder, those Kodak holders should fit also. The 9x12cm Kodak holders are fairly

common. FWIW, the made-in-Germany Kodak holders are black, and the made-in-US holders are yellow.

 

On eBay the Jobo 2521 tanks are really getting pricey; over $100 typically. But as now most darkroom gear is sadly semi-obsolete, I've managed to find a couple locally for much less.

<p>Eli, I did a little searching on Google and found an eBay listing for a 9x12cm Taxo that included two Zeiss 665/7 plate holders. So hopefully yours takes the same size--and you're in luck: this is the most common type of the many 9x12cm plate/film holders. The Ica/Zeiss Maximar, the Voigtlander Avus and Kodak/Nagel Recomar all use this holder's dimension.<br /> I've several of these 9x12cm cameras, and the best holders IMO are the "Kodak" branded ones. They can be used with either glass plates or cut film. Most of the other holders are for glass plates and require an extra sheath to adapt them for sheet film.<br /> Also, you might want to look around for a Jobo 2521 developing tank with a 2509 reel. This combo will allow you to develop six sheets of 4x5 or 9x12cm sheet film. Most users use rotary processing with it, but I fill up the tank with 1.5 liters of solution and agitate by slowly inverting the tank twice a minute with both hands, and get fairly consistent results.</p>

I GOT THE LENS OFF! I was getting a little radical: decided to attempt

to pull the lens out while holding the camera upside down, and it finally

came out. I'm not quite sure why this worked..

 

THE PROBLEM IDENTIFIED: the internal alignment pin is a THREADED SCREW

that was slightly loose. I was able to tighten it one-half turn, and now

the lens mounts and dismounts correctly. I'll dig out some "Lock-Tite"

thread-glue and fasten it in place forever.

 

Thanks to all who replied. --Leigh in Santa Barbara, Calif.

Paul, I've tried that repeatedly. No luck...

Robert, the lens retaining ring appears to be travelling in its normal range of travel. When turned fully CCW, the lens is

looser and wobbles a bit, but does not come out. So you're saying I should force the ring further?

I just picked up a Kiev 60 for $65.00. It has the usual 80mm/f2.8 lens. The seller said that the frame counter was broken, but otherwise was

in working order. I checked out the Butkus.pdf Kiev manual and figured out how to load/unload it, but I can't take the lens off... I understand

the lens mount is like the older Canon FD/FL breech-mount: turn the knurled ring CCW, and the lens should loosen. Well, it does not,

despite my wriggling in all directions. Any clues? I have some old barrel lenses I'd like to try to adapt, IF I can get the darn 80mm lens off.

Thanks in advance. --Leigh

FROM THE LINK MENTIONED ABOVE:

"Many of us radiation hobbyists, take our counters to garage sales, and antique shops. The old compass's, watches, and clocks, often have radium painted on. This is dangerous stuff, if you inhale, or ingest it. Old glassware, usually with a greenish tint, has uranium oxide, and is very measurable.

The Fiesta Ware from the 40's through the 60's. That beautiful orangeish-reddish that was their most popular color? They used uranium oxide to get that color, and that stuff is pretty hot.

Here is a YouTube of my measuring my Fiesta-Ware saucer from era 1959-1969.

 

 

The FDA says it's okay to eat off of, but don't store food on any of it. Yeah, okay. It's not even kept in the house.

45,000 to 48,000 CPM. Very active." END OF QUOTED FORUM TEXT-- I think I'd rather take up skydiving as a hobby...

Dan B., evidently there are at least a few other radiation hobbyists who actively seek "hot" items. Bright orange FiestaWare is popular, as well as old glowing clock faces. Check out the first item in this forum thread I found with Google:-->

 

http://www.highdefforum.com/no-topic-forum/106063-everyday-stuff-thats-radioactive.html

Interesting, Robert. I'll be sure not to spend too much time snuggling with my yellowing 50mm f1.4 SMC . FWIW, a few

years ago I was browsing in a junk shop, and saw a guy with a small geiger counter "wanding" it over dishes and small

ceramic statues. I asked what he was doing, and he said some older glazed ceramic finishes were slightly "hot"; he said he

bought them to resell at a modest profit to other radioactivity fans. Interesting, but he'd probably have a longer life collecting

stamps or camera gear...

FWIW, here's a link to a photo of a nearly identical 11.5cm Trioplan on an unmarked 6.5x9cm German plate camera.

http://nelsonfoto.com/SMF/index.php?topic=8386.0

Fedka in New York City has several M39 SLR lenses. Here's a link to a M39 58mm�/f2 preset lens that is a copy of the

Zeiss Biotar:

 

http://fedka.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31_43&products_id=65

Jeremy, here's a thread from Large Format Forum that might help. One of the posters had a mis-assembled three-element

projection lens and got results fairly similar to yours. Another person then showed the correct element position for a Cooke

triplet. See: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=63183

John, someone gave me a nearly identical shutter and lens like yours has. Mine is a 170mm f7.7 and both cells fit in the

same Supermatic shutter used on the Ektar 203mm/f7.7 and 127mm/f4.7. The simple 3-speed Kodak shutter is supposed

to not be very accurate, so you might have the option of using a more modern shutter with flash synch. (Although you'd

have to figger out a new aperture scale with the 127mm shutter.) Thus far I've yet to use mine, but I've read it's a fairly

sharp lens of a similar design to the well-regarded 203mm Ektar, although uncoated.

I've got a Tokina RMC 80-200mm/f4 in M42 mount and like it very much. It was all of about $20 at a thrift store. I believe it

is 1980s vintage, and somewhere I read that scored highly in a Consumer Reports magazine test of mid-range zooms. It is

much better than a similar 1970s zoom I once owned. (Not a Soligor.. a Soligon?) Here's a link to one user's comments of

the 80-200mm f4 Tokina:

 

http://lensporn.blogspot.com/2009/12/tokina-rmc-80-200mm-f4-699-from-ebay.html

My most expensive 35mm camera, a Leica M2, has one annoying quirk: with the shutter uncocked, the FLASH can be still

be tripped if you press the shutter release. My several other 35mm cameras that are far cheaper don't have this problem.

However, I'm also annoyed by SHUTTER LOCKS; my Bessa L and Ricoh CR-5 SLR require the advance lever to be moved

away from the body to release the shutter. (I'd rather risk wasting a single frame of 35mm film than risk losing a good shot

trying to fumble the advance lever 15 degrees on an already-cocked shutter.)

Jay, it's my understanding that some COMPLETED eBay auctions are frauds. Some shady sellers are supposed to use

multiple buyer AND seller user-ID names. To raise the value on an item, a dealer will list it at a very high price, and then

using his phony buyer's name, then buy it back from himself. He'll then use that fake/shilled/sham auction as a price basis

when he relists a similar item. Another variation of a seller using multiple fake buyer ID-names is someone who wants to

give himself good feedback rating and reviews. (Or so I've read...) Instead of eBay, i suggest you use KEH or Pacific Rim

used catalog listings.

Chris, I too just acquired a Polaroid 320, but have not used it yet. My shutter linkage also makes a clicking SOUND, but

checking through the lens shows it is not actually opening; its battery is dead. Evidently the 320 has an electronic shutter,

and I've read that some users have replaced its expensive battery with a couple of AAA cells.