barry_kleinberg

I have bought loads of cheapo batteries on ebay and never had a problem and have had lots of use out of them

I expect to have it in a couple of days and will post a few shots as soon as I get out with it. I have exams for a couple of weeks so may just take a few random shots without really doing the sort of stuff I want with it. Really want to go into city of London and take som architectural shots from really low angles and see how they come out.

 

Thanks for responses.

Well it was half of that price for a start but I know it is what I want and need just wondered what others experiences were. But thanks for the link

I have just ordered this as I have wanted a fisheye for a while for my 20D.

 

Just wondering if any of you have any experience with it.

 

Thanks

It gets worse! :-(

 

I got the software onto my computer last night and opened the RAW images but they were all "damaged" with bands of colour running through them. I tested the memory card on my 300D and it seems fine, the lenses have all been used for a long time on other cameras so I can only assume I have a dodgy body (no jokes please) which I am returning later today. Only problem is that no one has body only and may have to spend more to get the 20D.

 

Grrrrrr

Thanks everyone.

 

Firstly I will download the trial CS2 - good idea thanks. Then I will deal with Canon's software issue - I think I may just have a dodgy disc?

 

Thanks again.

 

Barry

Can you give me a link for that - I cannot find it anywhere - the 3.1 plug-in specifically

states that it does not work with earler versions of PS?

 

I am still getting nowehere with installing canon's software and their customer support

is....poor so far.

 

Just out of interest, when I plug in my hard drive I can preiew the .CR2 files in Finder but

when I "convert" them (now using Bibble Labs Lite) I get a "splodge" of bright colours and no

image....will I ever be able to convert RAW images from my new 350D?

Just had a look at the Adobe website and it does say that the plug-in only works for the latest version of Photoshop and I have CS (not CS2). Does anyone know if it still works? I will of course try when I get home....

Great. Thanks for that.

Hello all and thanks for reading this.

 

I just bought a 350D (already own a 300D) and cannot get the software

to install on my Powerbook (OS 10.4.2). More worrying is that I have

backed up the pictures I took yesterday (precious ones of my

daughters 3rd birthday - all shot in RAW mode) but cannot open the

images in any programmes including PS CS. The file name ends

in .CR2....any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

I am waiting for Canon to come back to me on the general software

issues but am I missing something obvious.

 

Thanks again.

 

Barry

Thanks everyone for your advice. Just a thought...could it be that I am using 3rd party ink? It

is sooooo much cheaper?

 

Thanks again

 

Barry

Hi and thanks in advance for any tips,

 

I have a Canon 300D and Epson R300. I usually shoot in RAW and then work on my photos

in Photoshop CS.

 

Many of my photos tend to print with very unsatisfactory colours. Faces are quite grey and

colours are not vvibrant. I am using Adobe RGB 1998 (I think that is what it is called) in

Photoshop.

 

Any ideas....please help.

 

Thanks again

 

Barry

Hi all,

 

I know that I should simply read books (and I like doing that) but I always like the tips I get

on these forums.

 

Until now I have shot Canon EOS cameras (film and digital) and have now taken the plunge

and ordered a Mamiya 645 (with WLF, prism, 80mm lens, light meter and 120 back) . I

have never used medium format cameras before and was wondering if anyone could spare

a few moments to give me their "golden rules". I ordered it mainly for portrait work (my

kids) and to try my hand at some landscape photography as well.

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Barry

As someone else said....they are not going to be selling for much - keep them both. I have been shooting with my 300D almost exclusively for six months but only yesterday decided I wanted to out and shoot some street photography so took my rebel with the 50mm 1.8 and was soooo happy. Shot a roll of B&W and really enjoyed it.

Hi Mark,

 

As everyone will no doubt tell you sooner or later the 50mm 1.8 is a no brainer. It is cheap and a super lens. (as for the issue of the mk1 or markII I wouldn't worry so much about that - you pay a premium for the mk1 and at this stage you wont notice any practical differences).

 

Also if you want to get really close with a macro lens I can recommend the Sigma 105mm which is much cheaper than the Canon macro (I think it is 100mm).

 

Most importantly just keep shooting and get LOTS of practice.

 

Enjoy

 

Barry

Hi,

 

This was my first film SLR and I still use it. With the BP-200 it fells sturdier and I have achieved some nice results with it across a range of genres (wildlife, architecture, portrait). I also have older 600 which is heavier but I only use that for sports (when I need the 5fps). In a (few) words I am very happy with the Rebel 2000.

 

HTH

 

Barry

I prefer "She who must be obeyed"!

As you have the 17-40 I would avoid the 28-XX as there would be overlap and you also have the 50 of course. I vote for the 85/1.8 which I recently acquired. Fast, sharp and I think complements your kit very nicely - dont forget the 1.6 factor on the 10D...but will still make a very nice portrait lens. Just my 2 cents.

 

Good luck and glad you didn't change over to the dark side :-)

 

Barry

Yakim,

 

You are of course correct and I doubt I will carry all three around with me. The 85 will be for home/garden portraits of the kids, the 105 I only use on specific (macro) occassions so I imagine the in the bag options are more likely to be the 28/50/70-200 - all light and excellent lenses. Maybe the 35 too as it is so light...

 

Thanks all for responses. Leaving law is the best thing I can think of. FYI I am going to train as an Osteopath - a slight change you might say!

 

Barry

They are a bit close but I have the 15 - 30mm Sigma for wide on my 300D and then added the 50/1.8. Then decided to go to primes 28/2.8 and 35/2 were way cheaper than either the 20 or 24mm lenses....and finally the 85/1.8 is raved about, relatively cheap and a lovely portrait lens (which is great for my three kids!).

 

As for fumbling around, today I went out at lunch time for a walk along a river and just kept the 35/2 on my 300D and used my feet a lot - I am learning far more from using primes and using my feet to zoom and taking loads of pictures!

 

Without wishing to give you my life story I have now (over about 3 years) moved from the two kit lenses that came with my 300 through to faster zooms (Tokina 28 - 70/2.8 and Sigma 70-200/2.8) to the current set of primes and I love em! Just have to save for a very long time for the 200 and 400 primes!

I will start posting. I have also started a camera club in my area which is very exciting - jus 4 members to start with but no doubt it will grow. It gives me a focus (excuse the pun) each month which is very helpful.

 

This months theme was Black and White photography and I will post my entry over the weekend.

 

Just to complete the picture of my kit I shoot with 2 film bodies (600 and 300) and the 300D.

I may get told off for this post but I am just too excited..

 

Due to my surfing these forums for the past few months I have

rearranged my kit drastically and now own several primes (mainly due

to Yakim) 28/2.8, 35/2, 50/1.8 and Sigma 105mm Macro. I am looking

for an 85/1.8 to finish off...but to top it all I have just order my

first L lens - a secondhand 70-200 f4. I am selling my Sigma

70 - 200/f2.8 and sigma 2 x tele as I dont need the extra stop or the

extra distance.

 

Now I just need to BUY some more time to take pictures! I am about to

become a student again (giving up law after nearly a decade!) so

hopefully I will have a tad more time.

 

So really this is just a big thank you.

I understand that it will not be needed but is there any reason to disable it when I dont need it?

Hi all,

 

I have installed the Russian Hack for my 300D and was just wondering

whether or not there are any disadvantages to always enabling mirror

lock-up. Whilst I will no doubt only need MLU for macro work it will

save changing the Custom Functions.

 

Thanks

 

Barry

I have the Tokina and so far after nearly a year have had no problems. I use the lens on both film and digital bodies. For the price it is a really nice lens and is built like a tank - hate the push-pull though.

 

Just my tuppance worth.

 

Barry