david_summers

"I would use the 4870, but pay for drum scans for larger prints. Flat beds are pretty marginal. "

That is exactly the way that I am leaning. Used 4870's seem to be pretty reasonably priced where-as used 4990's

sell for close to the price that they were when new.

I apologize for asking a question that has pretty much been beat to death, but I am having trouble finding a

definitive answer.

I need a scanner for scanning 4X5 chromes for printing 16X20's and the occasional 30X40 print.. I shoot only 4X5

and use mostly Velvia 100F and Velvia 100. (35mm or medium format performance doesn't matter to me)

I don't want to spend more than $600 and I have narrowed it down to a used 4870 (around $150 used), a used 4990

(around $300 used) or a new V700 ($499 mail order). I have ruled out the i900 and i800 due to the lack of IR

cleaning for film.

Price is a big factor for me, but I am willing to pay for the V700 if it really is $200-$300 better than the older scanners.

I have read many reviews that have said that there are only incremental improvements from the 4870 to the 4990 to

the V700.

I have read posts on the web that state that the V700 really shines when used in the 6400dpi mode due to the dual

lens optics system, but I haven't seen any actual test scans from the 6400dpi mode.

Here are my specific questions:

1) Does the dual lens system in V700 really make a difference when you use the 6400dpi setting? I know that it

can't really resolve 6400dpi, but I would be thrilled if I could get a real life resolution > 2400dpi.

2) Can someone point me to a review of the V700 that compares 6400dpi scans to the scans from the 4990? The

photo-i review is excellent but he never uses the 6400dpi mode in the review which means that he never uses the

high resolution optics of the V700. Several people have mentioned a review in View Camera magazine that states

that the 6400dpi mode is much better than the 3200dpi mode, but I haven't been able to find a copy on the web.

3) Is there anyone on this forum who has used both the 4990 and the V700? Do you think that the V700 is

considerably better than the 4990 in resolution and/or DMAX?

4) If it were your hard earned cash, which one would you buy?

I mosty shoot Fuji slide film in my 4X5, but I recently bought a box

of Fuji NPS-160 color print film to try out. After I bought the

film, I donwloaded the datasheet from fuji.com. The datasheet says

that exposures longer than 1/8 second are "not recommended".

I don't think I have ever used a shutter speed shorter than 1/8

second with my 4X5, and my exposures are usually around a second or

longer.

Can someone point me to an exposure compensation table for long

exposures for this film?

I am new to LF photography and I have a Tachihara 4X5 wood field

camera. I have some lens boards with the lens hole in the exact

center of the board, and some with the hole offset towards the bottom

of the board.

I know that Linhof cameras need the boards with the offset hole, but

which is correct for the Tachihara?

Both types work with the camera, but which one really gives me zero

front rise when the indicator is on zero.

Thanks,

David

Quality Light Metric in Hollywood, CA can calibrate just about any light meter ever made for $50. I just had them calibrate my Sekonic L-488 and they did a great job. Its exposure readings are dead-on now.

A quick yahoo search shows their phone number as (323) 467-2265. They do not have a web site that I know of.

I tried posting this question in the Digital Darkroom forum, but

didn't get much response. I thought that I would try it here since

it is specific to 4X5 shooters.

I recently bought a 4X5 field camera, and I absolutely love it. My

only complaint is that my local lab charges and arm and a leg to

scan 4X5's. In my search for a cheap way to scan my 4X5

transparencies, I just bought a Sprintscan 45i scanner on ebay.

Polaroid claims that this scanner does not work with XP, but I have

read a couple of reports of people getting it to work just fine.

Polaoid's website states that the 45Ultra is supported in XP, but

the 45 and 45i will not work. Does anyone have experience with this

scanner under XP? Do I need to do anything special other than

installing the latest ASPI drivers from Adaptec? Do you use the

polaroid software, or Vuescan?

Also, I bought this scanner for scanning 4X5's but it doesn't come

with a 4X5 holder. The 4X5 glass holders are somewhat rare and

expensive, but I happen to have a good friend with a machine shop.

I was wondering if someone would be willing to take a digital photo

of their Polaroid Sprintscan 4X5 glass holder and send it to me so

that I can make a replacement? Please include a ruler in the frame

to use as a reference for the dimensions.

My email address is ncummers1 at yahoo dot com.

Thanks,

David

On second thought, rather than measuring your film holder, could someone just post (or email) a photo of the Polaroid 4X5 anti-newton ring glass holder which shows the holder next to a ruler for scale? Then I should be able to determine the dimensions of the holder from the photo and create a CAD drawing of it. The only other dimension that I would need would be the distance from the bottom of the holder to the film so that the focus will be correct.

If someone would be willing to do this for me, I would really appreciate it.

You can email the photo to: ncsummers1 at yahoo dot com

Thanks,

-David

Yeah, I saw that anti newton ring film holder on ebay, but $200 is a big investment for a scanner that may or may not even work. :) I'm trying to be a cheap as possible here.

Does anyone out there have a 4X5 film holder for the Sprintscan 45i and a set of callipers who wouldn't mind measuring the exact dimensions of the film holder for me? If I have a set of dimensions I can machine a new film holder pretty cheaply then either add anti newton ring glass, or maybe wet mount the negs onto regular glass.

Thanks,

David

I just bought a used Sprintscan 45i on ebay. I plan on using it to

scan 4X5 transparencies, but the scanner did not come with a 4X5

film holder.

Does anyone know where to get a replacement 4X5 film holder? Has

anyone here made their own anti-newton glass holder from scratch?

If so would you mind sharing some advice on making a 4X5 film holder?

Also, I have heard that it is possible to get this scanner to work

under XP using the proper SCSI card with the proper ASPI drivers.

Does anyone have any tips for getting it to work in XP? What

scanning software do you use? Can I use it with Vuescan?

The scanner was only $30 plus shipping so I figured that it was

worth taking a risk. ;) If it is DOA, I'm not out much.

Thanks,

-David

I have been debating the same question for months now, but I'm still no closer to actually buying something. :)

Does anyone have a recomnedation on the following flatbed scanners for scanning 4X5: Espon 4990 vs Canon 9950F vs Microtek i900??

I used a 200mm lens on my SLR, used center weighted metering, and metered off of large uniform surfaces: concrete driveway, asphalt road, side of my house, etc so I'm pretty sure that the SLR and the spot meter are seeing the same thing. The Sekonic always read low.

The sekonic website does have an order form to order a photocopy of the manual for $5.

I just bought a used Sekonic L-488 spot meter and it appears to be

about 2/3 stop off when compared to the meter in my SLR.

Is there any way to dial-in exposure compensation with this meter?

(Other than by setting a different film speed whih is what I'm doing now)

This is my first spot meter and of course it has no manual so any

general operating advice for this meter would be appreciated. Anyone

have a manual that would be willing to scan it in for me?

Thanks,

-David

OK. I thought it was something like that.

Is it fairly normal for the clips to intrude into the image area slightly (about 1.5mm) or should I be annoyed with the lab?

Should I just get into the practice of not using the extreme edges of my frame?

Thanks,

David

I am new to 4X5 and have just gotten my first shots back from the

lab. I am shooting Fuji Quickloads (Velvia, Provia, Astia). I

noticed that all of the slides have a line of 5-6 tiny little holes

near each corner. Most of them are in the border area, but some

protrude a few mm into the image area.

Is this normal with Quickload film or is it something that the lab

did? I a total 4X5 newbie so this is probably completely normal and

I just don't know it.

Thanks,

David

I agree, the Fuji Frontier Rocks.

</p>

If you proof your images in the Fronteir color space before you print them you can tweak those super-saturated images so that they look right on the frontier.

</p>

My only complaint is that my local drugstore can't (or won't) print 8X12's on their machine. I have to add white borders on the edges of my 3:2 images to make them 8X10 so that they won't get cropped.

</p>

Here are some links about the Frontier that I found useful:

</p>

<a href = "http://bermangraphics.com/press/frontier.htm">bermangraphics.com/press/frontier.htm</a>

</p>

<a href = "http://drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/FrontierDatabase.htm">Database of Frontier color profiles at Drycreek photo

</p>

<a href ="http://www.popphoto.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_id=482"> Pop Photo generic profiles for the Fronteir</a>

Does anyone know of a camera store in the Denver/Fort Collins area

that rents large format lenses (for a 4X5)? I'm a newbie and would

like to try out a couple of different focal lengths before I buy.

</p>

Also, are there any camera stores in Colorado with a good selection

of used large format lenses? Does Denver have any photo swap meets?

</p>

Thanks,<br>

-David

Jean-Baptiste, I really like the idea of using the digital camera's historgram to choose slide versus print film for each shot. Good idea.

Guy, Thanks for the link to the article. It is encouraging that you had good results with a digital P&S.

I'd like to buy a nice spot meter eventually but I'm hoping to get by with the SLR for a while. It sounds like it will work fine for most of the situations that I usually shoot in.

I'll report back on my results.

I'm about to take the plunge into large format photography by buying

my first 4X5 field camera. I plan to use my Canon EOS 10D DSLR as

my light meter for two reasons:

</p>

1) Now that I've bought a 4X5 camera and lens I've pretty much spent

my photo budget for the year and can't afford a nice meter. :)

</p>

2) I am a now a devout believer in the power of the histogram.

Having it has improved my photography 100%.

</p>

I've read the following article on using a digital point and shoot

as a metering tool, but I haven't been able to find any other

information.

</p>

<a href ="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/s30-as-

meter.shtml">http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/s30-as-

meter.shtml</a>

</p>

I was wondering if anyone here uses a DSLR as their light meter, and

if you have any advice/tips.

</p>

How accurately does the 10D's histogram match the dynamic range of

slide film such as Velvia or Provia?

</p>

Do you regularly use any exposure compensation when translating from

the DSLR's meter reading to the film camera?

</p>

My Canon lenses will only stop down to f22 or f27, Are there any

cheap/free exposure calculator tables, wheels, slide charts, etc

which will make it easier to calculate the exposure at larger f-

stops based on the camera's reading? It would also be nice to have

something to make it easier to convert from the camera's lowest ISO

rating of 100 to ISO40 for shooting Velvia.

</p>

I'm sure I'll figure all of this out in due time, but I'm hoping

that some tips can save me a little money in "experimental" film

while I'm learning how to shoot slides again. :)

</p>

I want to buy this tripod, but B&H only sells it with a pan and tilt

head which I do not need.

From reading other posts in this board it seems clear that Velbon

sells the tripod without the head in other countries. Is there any

place in the US where I can get one without a head? I'm guessing

that having one shipped from Britton would cost more than just

buying one here and not using the head.

Thanks,

<ul>

<li>"You should have a look here: http://f20c.com/stuff/canon/partslist before you take the lens apart."

</ul>

Thanks, the parts list and exploded diagram are a huge help. My lens doesn't look all that complicated. I feel comfortable taking it apart.

<p>

If someone can give me a grease recomendation (if any is even needed) then I'll be all set.

<p>

<ul>

<li>"Out of curiosity, how did the sand enter your lens?"

</ul>

Lower Antelope Canyon on a windy day. Sand was raining down from the surface. It was worth it though :)

<p>

-David<div></div>

Disassemble and clean zoom lens?

After a recent trip to the desert, my Canon EF 24-84mm USM zoom lens

has sand and grit in it. Everything still works fine, but when I

move the manual focus ring I can feel the sand grating as the ring

turns. It is a very unpleasant feeling/sound. There is no sound

when the lens auto-focuses so I think the internal mechanisms are OK.

I am fairly mechanically inclined and I have taken apart old manual

focus lenses to clean the internal elements before (mold growth form

being stored in a damp closet for 10 years). Should I attempt to

disassemble and clean this lens? Since it is an AF (ultrasonic

motor) lens, I am afraid of opening it up and having a thousand tiny

springs and parts fly out of it.

If I do attempt this repair myself, what do I use to lubricate it

after I have cleaned it? My general purpose lube for this kind of

thing is a white Teflon based bicycle grease? Is this a bad choice?

Is there something better?

Does anyone know much would it cost to send this lens back to Canon

to have them clean it? If it is under $50 then I will just send it

in.

Thanks,

-David

(IMO) PTAssembler is the best software out there:

<p>

<a href = "http://www.tawbaware.com/ptasmblr.htm">www.tawbaware.com/ptasmblr.htm</a>

<p>

It is shareware ($39 to register), has amazing support from the developer, and a large support network in the message forums on the above web site.

<p>

It isn't as idiot proof as some programs, but is still easy to use. The biggest difference between PTAssembler and some other packages is that PTAssembler requires you to click on common points in the overlapping regions of your photos. It then uses these "control points" as a starting place to calculate how to warp and rotate your images so that they line up perfectly.

<p>

I like the fact that it can generate a layered photoshop document whith each image alligned, but on its own layer. Then you can tweak the layer masks to blend the photos to your hearts content. I usually let the software take its best shot at creating the layer masks, and then tweak the masks to fix any wierd spots (usually limited to color variations in the sky).<p>

<p>

-David

I just wanted to thank everyone here for the great advice. We had an amazing trip thanks in a large part to the advice in this thread.

-David

I live near Boulder. The typical summer weather pattern in the Colorado Mountains is nice in the mornings, thrunderstorms in the afternoon, nice in the evenings. Storms usually blow over quickly, and yes they sometimes produce very dramatic skies.

If you are going to be hiking in the mountains, go early and be off the mountain by noon. Getting caught in a thunderstorm with a metal tripod (lightning rod) on your pack is no fun. :)

-David

You said "Good luck, and maybe I'll run into you. I'll be in Utah on monday and my plan is to get into Page on Tuesday."

Chances are that we'll miss each other. I'll be getting to Page on the 9th.