amanda mumma

ooh, sorry to hear you had so much trouble. Yes I returned it and am getting the new one today. I sure hope I don't experience the same problems as you. I do think it depends on your retailer as well. Mine wouldn't take any crap about getting it fixed (they tried to get me to take it to Camera Clinic for repairs when the camera was '2 days' old! FIngers crossed that this next body is problem free.

Thanks for the heads up Phineas.

thanks all. Yes the camera store has the Fuji rep coming in today and has a copy of these photos. He will organise a straight swap for me, allowing me to hold on to it over the weekend and swapping it over when the new body arrives.

Great camera though....you should see the dynamic range, it is so true. I took a pic of my bw cat on the deck at noon with the shadows from the railings....the whole thing was captured and nothing was at 0 or 255...I'm really impressed.<div></div>

thanks Ronald, the body is BRAND new! I literally picked it up yesterday. If there is a scratch on the sensor cover then I presume it is back to Fuji for a replacement? I have only put on one lens, then changed to another to be sure it wasn't lens....so it has to be a manufacture fault yes?

and full image version<div></div>

I took delivery of my S5 yesterday and ran a few test images. On about half the

images I am getting these scratch like marks in the same spot. Sometimes red

and sometimes white but always in the same image area. I have changed lenses

and cf cards and this has made no difference. What is it from, does anyone know?<div></div>

thanks so much Tom, I will give it a go for sure. TYpically though - I haven't had the problem for a bit but I am very much aware of battery power and ensuring the MB200 is tightly attached. THanks again.

I only use the cf cards with the D200 so I can't say that the card write error is from anything else. Yes, I have the loss of power thing too. Not only do I get the battery warning but I also get a 'flicker' of power thru the viewfinder - the superimposed focus points disappear and the whole thing dims for a sec. In all other respects I am thrilled with the camera and only ever use my back up D70 when absolutely necessary...oh yeah, it is a battery muncher, compared to the D70!

mmmmmm, this is disconcerting. I have had the same problem with my Sandisk Extreme, my Lexar 80x and my Ridata. And yes - once the problem occurs it will re occur on the card. Nikon needs to sort this one out.

I shoot film and digital (mostly digital these days) and I have lost more images due to dodgy film (portra in particular)....I lost a once in a lifetime shoot due to (in date adn kept in fridge)ISO160 film which was as grainy as ISO 1600 - so both can have their problems.

I am having exactly the same problem with mine too (same equipment). I am also having trouble with the image data not being written to the card and it seems to be after several (flash) shots in succession. I have had it with both my Sandisk extreme 3 and a Ridata cf card so it isn't the card. I am using 2 sb800's and a lightsphere and it has happened with both flash units. So although i haven't shed any light on the problem, you aren't alone.

I actually reckon that Pentax is marketing more for the amateur these days and pumping out tons of kit zooms and not worrying so much for the higher end stuff. I have since made the switch to Nikon for this very reason. I am selling my 1.7mm af to a friend of mine but if she doesn't want it after all it will be up for sale on eBay Australia (ship worldwide) shortly.

okay - I have got it firing with flash, by turnign the flash to manual but still having no luck with my cables - perhaps I have 2 duds! Thanks guys.

I'm wondering if it is from the white balance. My settings are in manual, connected by cable (which should be foolproof and I have tried 2 different cables in case one was faulty). I have set my shutter at following speeds to be sure. 1/60th 1/90th 1/125 1/160 1/250 Obviously I have adjusted my aperture to suit but I started at f11 1/125. I then tried doing the same with my infra red trigger and last of all with my flash (sb800) set on ttl then manual at 1/64 and pointed away from the subject so as not to affect the exposure. I would rather not use flash anyhow as it doesn't recycle as quickly as my lights. The lights slaved everytime, but not in sync with the d200 so I ended up with unlit images. Cheers and thanks for coming back and trying to help.

thanks all - I tend to use f8 or f11 for my studio work and I shoot children and family so the lighting is usually very even for the majority and a small amount of low key work too, especially for young babies. So I pretty much know what the exposure is going to be give or take a bit (hence the flash meter).

I prefer to shoot with the infra red trigger or the cable as my strobes recycle much quicker than a flash unit. My question lies herein - how do I stop the wb pre flash...simply put, how on earth do I get the lights to sync with only my camera with no flash? I'd contact Nikon but I have had no luck...in Australia you can call them, email them, jump up and down and yet still get no response. Nikon's service here is non existent, which is a shame because their product is excellent - and they can't rest on their laurels because Canon will wipe the floor with them.

I take the light reading from my flash meter and set the camera manually - I know not to select a shutter speed faster than the flash sync which in the D200's case is 250th. I usually set it at 1/125 or 1/90 (habit from shooting film with older camera's with slower sync speeds I guess and don't usually need faster than this except when opening up). The problem exists whether I use flash, cable or infra red trigger...so I am presuming that it is either the white balance pre flash or a problem........????? Anyone else experience this?

I have the d200 and the problem I have is the studio lights fire but not in

sync with the camera. Is this because of the white balance pre flash and if

so, how do I overcome this problem. I have tried with cable, infra red trigger

and the speedlights (both built in and sb800) to no avail.

I would recommend Nikon. I used Pentax for years and although I have no gripes with Pentax, Nikon will grow with you better if you end up going anywhere with your photography. I found that Pentax wasn't anywhere near as consistent with on camera flash as Nikon and that Pentax isn't supported as well by 3rd party companies (ie Sigma, Quantam, Tamron TOkina etc) and that these 3rd party lenses and accessories don't have as many functions as Niikon or Canon. By sticking with either of the big 2, you will find it alot easier to buy extra equipment and that they will grow with you. I have purchased the d200 and several nikon lenses and speedlights and I am delighted with the products. Nikon's customer service here in Australia is non existent which is so far the only drawback that I have found. I have one very important piece of advice. If you do decide on the Nikon then save your money and buy a dedicated sb800 or sb600 if funds are tight. If you shop around online you'll find them much cheaper. I am so impressed with the consistency of the nikon lighting system, it is one of its major strengths. If you buy a 3rd party flashlight then you may have trouble with consistent flash (which is what i experiecned with Pentax). Good luck and enjoy your new purchase whichever way you go.

thanks all - I took delivery of the D200, 17-55mm AF-s Dx and 70-200mm. Also getting the SB800 in a day or two as I'm awaiting the delivery. So far I am really rapt with the D200 and I have only scratched the surface of all its features! I am so far very impressed at how many features are packed into such a reasonably priced unit! So thanks for saving me a couple of grand - I may get the D2Xs in time but I may only need 2 D200's for what I do. I'm thinking the weight issue with the D2Xs. But I really want to extend my thanks as the replies were so detailed and very much directed at my needs.

thankyou Yuri for your advice - I agree with you and have pretty much made up my mind thanks to all the wonderful replies I got here.

thanks so much to all of you. I am thinking that I very well may start off with the D200 then if completely happy buy the D2Xs and keeping the D200 as my back up body. I am going to an expo shortly and will handle both and I know someone with the Canon so will beg and borrow that too. But I really do think I want the Nikon - its the flash tipping the scales for me and the slightly more affordability of the NIkon system. I am not selling my Pentax gear until I am completely set up with complete main and back ups - I also need some time to adjust to the new system and get into 'automatic' mode. Right now I know my Pentax gear, inside out, back to front and even blindfolded - I don't want to shoot work with my Nikon till I have that same familiarility. I so apreciate the honesty in all of your answers - cheers!

that's it - 30x40 is HUGE and the majority of work ordered is 8x12 to 12x18! Very often the larger prints are montages anyhow....sure I like having the resolution there - especially as I don't like to shoot too tight (allows for cropping to get standard enlargements), I always say you can crop in but if you shoot too tight you can't get it back! Resolution is only part of the package for me, reliability, ease of use, quality accessories and lenses adn compatability with Metz, Quantam etc is nice if I decide to go that route.

thanks all! I do own 2 ist D's and find that flash results are too inconsistent and I am severely limited as I can't get PA-TTL with Metz and I'm just not happpy with the inconsistency of the flash results. Yes, the new 10 mp Pentax is promising but after speaking with the distributors it looks as if it is going to be a supped up ist DS - I just need more. I will buy 2 speedlights (whether the Canon or the Nikon), one for each body and have the Metz 45clr already - just need to get a new adaptor. I am not too fussed about the difference between the Canon's 16 mp and the NIkon's 12mp - both are huge and I am certain that the 12mp will be plenty. I do like alot of the canon features, being able to carry on board both CF and SD together to extend memory or double protect is fantastic, as is the smaller RAW files than NIkon BUT - I'm having trouble getting past the better flash system with NIkon and still having a little extra to rattle around in my pocket afterwards! Mmmmmmm, still leaning slightly to Nikon I think...........

I currently have a pentax kit of ist D bodies and assorted pro lenses....but I

have to sadly say the time has come for me to move to either Nikon or Canon. I

shoot mostly children and some wedding with the view to taking on a bit more

wedding photography (as it is falling into my lap word of mouth). My question

is......both these cameras are going to suit my needs beautifully but I need

to know 2 things. Firstly - the flash and fill flash modes are extremely

important to me as shooting kids means I literally shoot from the hip, the

less time fiddling with equipment the better. Which system has the better more

consistent results. I will be using a Metz 45 clr handle bracket flash

(digital) and will purchase the corresponding speedlite for which ever system

I purchase. Secondly, which system has the superior AF and lens clarity and if

so, is there really much in it?

Any help here will be greatly appreciated as it is a very big move which I

will be doing gradually. One system now, keep up one back up of my pentax and

then a little later another full system of either Nikon or Canon.

Thanks guys :-)

I have a couple of istD bodies and it happens occasionally to both of htem, I put it down to a 'computer hang' within??? Anyhow, unless it continues frequently then it is probably just a techno thing.

Sandisk Ultra 2 vs Lexar 80X - definitely the Lexar is faster, I really notice the difference when I 'run out' of Lexar and am forced to use the slower Sandisk. You should seriously take into consideration how much a 'missed' shot is worth too. I shoot kids mostly and do some weddings, and there is nothing worse than missing action because your buffer is full. For me - missed shots are missed $$$ and therefore the extra spent on the card is an investment. If you have double bodies, lenses and flashes then using a smaller card is not such an issue as you just pick up the other camera and keep shooting, changing the full card when the action stops. This may not be an issue though if you only have the one body and therefore having multiple smaller cards would suit you for back up purposes. I use 1GB cards (6 in total) and feel safer knowing that all my eggs aren't in one basket so to speak. I have had the horror of a card write error and luckily Lexars image recovery saved those images. So now - in 2006 - which is faster - the Ultra 3 or the Lexar Pro 133X - I'm going with the Lexar I think???!!!