sc21

Can't speak from experience, but there's some suggestions here, about a third of the way down the page:

 

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/214217

There's a review (and a forum posting) on the B+W Pro at luminouslandscape.com. (Couldn't find the exact link.)

Thanks, David - that's what I needed to know.

 

For anyone else interested, here's a couple reviews of the original Eye-One Display 1 (which is now $59 at J&R and Amazon).

 

http://www.creativepro.com/story/review/19760-1.html

 

http://www.computer-darkroom.com/i12/i12_page_1.htm

Does anyone know if using the new software with the original Eye-One

Display 1 lets you set the luminance values?

 

From what I can gather, not being able to set luminance was one of

the sticking points of the original package.

Thanks, Rick!

 

Here's some info on the differences between version 1 and 2.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CgT6&unified_p=1

 

Does anyone know if using the new software with the original Eye-One lets you set the luminance values?

The best I've found is here:

 

http://www.steves-digicams.com/

Thanks - never thought of going that route. Will have to check out the file size to see how they compare with a folder of thumbnails.

I'm looking to get an Eye One myself (going by the Dry Creek article and input on various forums) - where do you get one for $59? Thought they were about $230.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=search&Q=

Before burning a folder of images and then deleting them from the

hard drive, I like to make a folder of thumbnails, which I keep on

the hard drive, so I can later tell what I put on the CD without

having to dig the CD out. Like a contact sheet.

 

I've been copying the images into the thumbnails folder and running

a batch action to size them way down to tiny JPEGS (and then

deleting the Tiffs and PSDs), and I was wondering if there's an

easier way, or a program that does it for you.

Good info here. All I can chip in is a few hours worth of research a few months ago, and it's that Maxtor drives overheat, and Seagate and LaCie are among the best brands.

Get Blatner/Fraser if you don't already have a copy for CS - it's the standard book I go to whenever I need to know anything. After that, Wilmore's books have a great reputation, as does Martin Evening's.

Another thanks for the links.

Ellis's way is best, but if you have CS, you could also simply try the Shadow/Highlight tool (under Image - Adjustments).

 

And while I second the vote for Katrin Eismann and Tim Grey's books, you might also check out Martin Evening's "Photoshop CS for Digital Photographers."

Hey Dave,

 

I just glanced at your site - excellent photos! Really like the layout of the site as well.

 

About the spyware stuff, I have XP and Norton, and yet there's still stuff that gets on board. Two free programs are Ad-Aware SE (which blocks as well as scans) and SpywareBlaster (which simply blocks). You just update their virus definitions every week, and run an Ad-Aware search once a week, and it'll help keep you clean.

 

Enjoy the beach!

Thanks, Dean - that's a very cool museum/blast-from-the-past they got there.

Thanks, Nigel.

 

I just found where I'd read that - Blatner/Fraser's "Real World CS" - "You can leave the File Browser open, but we don't recommend it. When open, the File Browser is constantly working in the background and it will slow you down."

 

With 512MB of RAM, that's good to know. And your tip on how to do it is even better.

Never heard of the left to right deal, but "In American cinematography, a general rule is "right-to-left" is going to something (e.g., westward), and "left-to-right" is returning (e.g. eastward)" - that's so cool. I'm going to be up half the night visualizing favorite scenes in movies.

 

There is a good rule of thumb, though, that the person should look into the picture, meaning there's more space on the side of the eyes that they're looking towards than the other way. Just as a horse or jet plane should face into the picture, with open space before it.

Jim's got a great trick there. I've always just used a standing lamp, or some boxes in a chair. The great thing about your Rebel is you'll be able to check the screen, see where you were, and adjust for that. Also, a doll or mannequin head can help show you how the light's going to model you, like which way you should face for short lighting, etc.

Nice pics, and I don't think Clement was asking if he could do this during a wedding - he just liked the style, which is nice. The muted color might simply be from the earth tones. And yeah, though it's just a guess, I'd say any outfit doing this catalog would have a bevy of softboxes to act as fill.

Found this last night - it gives tips on moving from CS to CS2.

 

http://www.digitalmastery.com/cs2/

That link didn't work - maybe this is the right one.

 

http://www.computer-darkroom.com/home.htm

How many of you, after opening a file, go up to the Windows drop-

down menu and click off the File Browser, which is open behind the

picture you just opened?

 

I've read that the File Browser takes up RAM, so I was wondering if

it would help to always do that.

Here's a look at three of the better programs.

 

http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/23062.html

 

And if that photo isn't yours, it's polite (and legal) to give credit to the photographer.

This guy likes both Eismann and Marguils.

 

http://www.atncentral.com/Books.htm

Eismann's books are great - check out her website - there's a 32 page PDF on CS that is not only free, but will show you her writing style and the clear format of her books.

 

http://www.digitalretouch.org/