edward_hobin

I picked up a Minolta illuminance meter and I'd like to use it in my photo work. Is there a

reference that has a table to convert footcandles or lux to f-stops?

I'm 6 foot and I use a Berlebach 8023. It's a wooden tripod that's sturdy, relatively light and less expensive than a Reis.

I ran into a similar situation with some of my images and since then I save my PS files as PS files with all layers intact.

But to solve the my problem of getting rid of a signiture that I no longer wanted I used the clone tool to paint over it.

I use the neg holder from my enlarger and tape the negs to it with painters masking tape.

Is Aztek.com the only source for Kami mounting fluid? I've checked

the major online players and nobody seems to carry it. The thing is

that Aztek is such a horrendous site. When I want to order something

I want to see prices and forms and such, not this "email us and we'll

get back to you" crap.

I had a Wacom Graphire that I used until it buggered up on me. I loved it, it made everything so much easier.

 

 

(I thought my wife was going to get me a new one for christmas but she didn't take the bait).

I'm running my Microtek scanner through a USB adapter to my iMac and it works great. I had to get a gender adapter too, but so far (over a year) I've not had any problems. Make sure you get a terminator for the other SCSI port.

You mean in the same way that a bottle of coke should be 25 cents since it's only water and flavoring?

Affirmative, good buddy.

Sure focusing a view camera is more difficult and time consuming than using an autofocus 35mm SLR. On the other hand I find it easier to focus my view than I did my manual SLR just by virtue of the vastly larger screen. I think most of your hesitation must comes from the discussions of movements, which can be daughnting at first, but become second-nature in time. Besides, which is more preferable- missing the shot because you can't get the top of the building AND the fountain in the forground in focus or taking the time and effort to set up a view camera and end up with a negative that is not only in sharp focus but has better tonal seperation to boot?

Ah yes, the idea of using front movements to de-emphasize certain areas is very appealing in portraiture. But the reality of getting your subject to sit still for it is something different. You could nail their head to the wall but that eliminates repeat customers.

Perhaps others have had better luck with this than I. But anything you do to limit your depth of focus will also limit your subjects movement.

Regards

-ed

APX 100 has been my only film for quite a while now. Knowing that B&W shooters develop a relationship with their fim Agfa could have told it's customers that they were going to discontinue sheet film. But they chose to let us find out the next time we needed to resupply.

Personally I don't see any point in investing any time in any of Agfa's other products. Brand loyalty goes both ways.

I agree with Jarrod. I use the back for perspective control- like making buildings stand up straight- and the front to control depth of field. And I always tilt the back first, to get the correct perspective, before attempting to tilt the front.