Jump to content

michel legendre

Members
  • Posts

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by michel legendre

  1. Hi Michael,

    In my speciphic case I've been able to print very beautiful, high quality ink-jet prints, up to 16/20" on Photorag Paper with lots of details..

    The scanner I use give files of about 8000 pix. on the longest side. So I'm sure I could go up to 30/40" without any problems or 24/36" if you're aware of the presence of grain.

    I should say that ,in my case I didn't extensively retouched the scratches and peeling of emusion as , in a museum, this is considerd part of the "object" and this has to be documented as well.

    Honestly, I could look at the prints (and original files on screen)for hours...so much details and things to look at).

    Just take note that they are negatives...so the max density limitation of the scanner(DMax:4,2 for ex.) applies to dark areas of the neg... therefore the highlights of the positive image are affected.

    Doesn't mean a different set-up wouldn't make a good job but it's the only one I used to scan glass plates.

    Again, good luck and have fun.

     

    Salut

  2. I used an Imacon Progression II (the one that include a flat bed

    section along with a Virtual Drum for transparencies up to 4/5) to

    scan hundreds of glass plates as big as 8/10(and a little larger,

    if I remember well). The flatbed section can be used for

    transparancies and for reflective material.

    On those plates the emulsion is often "detached"..."flaky" I mean

    very fragil, so the general recommendation I'd give is to use

    some "spacers" made with cardboard (thicker than the plate

    itself...careful not all plates are of the same thickness) on each

    side of the plate on the flatbed in order to avoid the top cover to

    touch the emulsion (emusion on top of course)(in my scanner's

    particular case the cover is also a glass plate).

    You'll have to flip the image after.

    I used a positive set-up in the scanner software(as if it was a

    transparancy) in order to have an "original digital negatives" that

    visualy looks like the plate(with all the little tints and color

    shades that you usualy find in those B/W neg).

    Then you convert and use different edited versions for different

    purposes.

    If you have many plates ... be sure they aren't larger that 4/5.(

    glass plates were usualy handcutted and I found many, many

    different sizes in a single group of images) Important if you use a

    flatbed scanner with an adapter for 4/5 transparancies as a

    recent Epson Scanner for exemple.

     

    Hope it helps a little

    Good luck

     

    Salut

  3. Hi,

    You can try CORLAB in Montréal,

    175 Peel Street,

    Montreal, Quebec,

    Canada

    H3C 2G6

    Ask for Roland Labelle

    514-878-1320 After 10 in the morning (montreal time)

    It's around 3 $cdn for a 4/5 E:6

    You pay for the shipping and you have to set an account with

    them before the first sending.

    Not so far from Halifax after all...

    Good luck

     

    Michel

  4. Hi,

    you already have pretty good and interesting answers to your question.

    Let me add my 2cents...

    I think this film is going to stand a long exposure very well. But for the exact color reproduction of a scene I would follow Fuji recommendations or I would stay under 2 to 4 sec.

    I found that with a longer exposure time you should be very accurate with the exposure...means the film doesn't support an overexposition and can easily shows a 'crossover'. The highlights become slightly Red and the shadows become Cyan.

    So that's my experience with that film...that I really like I have to say.

     

    Good luck

     

    Michel Legendre

  5. I've just noticed that you expect to use 3200 lights so EPY should

    be the choice but with less predictable results that if you use

    Flashes.

    You will have to do test shots before you do the final one and be

    sure to use the exact same shutter speed for each(use the

    aperture for bracketing) because that film has a different

    reciprocity failure for each color layer so you have serious color

    shifts if you use long shutter speed...

     

    Still hope that helps...

  6. Hi Dan,

    at the museum where I work I use Kodak EPN for 4/5

    transparancies. It has a good color fidelity and a low contrast

    rendition wich is very important in art reproduction.We have very

    high standards and we produce trannies for exhibition

    catalogues etc etc and you could be surprised how flat you

    should keep your tr. to match the expectation of a high end 4

    colors printer.

    Be aware that if ever you polarize (sources or/and lens) you will

    increase significantly the contrast , loosing important details in

    the dark areas.

    I think that Provia 100 would do a respectable job on this...

     

    Hope it helps

     

    Salut

  7. I would not to wait too much from that visit regarding the

    possibility of buying used LF in Montreal. I'm presently looking for

    the same (I live in Montreal) and I only found one Linhof Technika

    at L.R.VIALA on DeMaisonneuve street(East).

    You could look at Simon's Camera on St-Antoine street but they

    had nothing until last week.

    Go to Photo-Services at 222 West Notre-Dame street in Old

    Montreal.

    If I have other ideas I will mention to you here.

    See you. Salut

     

    Michel

×
×
  • Create New...