david_williams11
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Posts posted by david_williams11
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Hi folks,
Here is a piece of an image scanned using my Nokon Coolscan V.
Notice the halo or reflection or whatever it is between the light
snow and black background. I assume this is caused by spurious
light from the LED source in the scanner. Is there any way to reduce
or get rid of this?
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Hi,
Can anyone tell me the average cost per print, on an R800, for the
following? Epson says it doesn't have this data.
One 5x7 on an 8.5 x 11 sheet of PLPP.
One 8x10 on an 8.5 x11 sheet of PLPP.
I know it depends on where you buy the inks/paper, so if you can give
me the prices per cartridge and pack of paper that you used in your
calculation, taht would be of immense benefit.
Cheers,
Dave
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Hello,
I've been doing some printing on my R800 and I am getting very dark
prints compared to the proof views on screen. My system is
calibrated, and the colors on the print are accurate, it's just that
everything is dark. I let Photoshop take care of the color
management and I have CM turned off in the printer driver. I'm
pretty sure everything is set up properly with respect to sending the
image from Photoshop to the printer. I have been using the profiles
provided by Epson but have also tried a custom profile - still dark.
My monitor is calibrated to G2.2 6500 K with Colorvision Optical.
I've looked at my prints under daylight, light bulb and 5000K light
and still dark.
I am confused. Has anyone else had this experience?
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The scan comes from a Velvia slide
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Hello,
I have a Nikon Coolscan V and I am wondering how to deal with shadow
noise caused by the scanner CCD. To me, it seems this noise is at
its worst when I scan an image at the full 4000 dpi resolution.
This noise doesn't show up as noise when I make a print, however it
does have the effect of increasing the contrast between dark shadow
area and a light area. Sometimes, this makes the transistion from
dark to light look unnatural and clipped. I'm not exactly sure how
to deal with this. Noise Ninja demo seems to remove this CCD noise
at the expense of sharpness but it does smooth out the
transistions. Scannning at a lower resolution helps but I don't
always want to do that. Are there any other scanner parameters I
should change or anything else I should do? I'm just using Nikon
Scan right now.
I've attached a section of an image to illustrate the noise. The
image has been lightened dramatically to show how the noise only
appears in darker areas.
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What is the max thickness paper for the R800? Velvet Fine Art is
19mil and I don't know if it's too thick or not. If not, what Media
Type should I use in the print settings?
Thanks,
Dave
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Hello,
I've recently bought a Epson R800 and I'm trying to figure out which
resolution I should print at. Here are some of the argument sI've
seen on other posts:
1) Print at 300 dpi by resizing the image appropriately in Photoshop.
2) Print at 360 or 720 dpi
3) Send an image to the Printer and let it handle the resizing and
resolution.
Anyone have any definitive answers on this?
Thanks,
Dave
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Here is an interesting article that was posted at dpreview.com
http://news.independent.co.uk/world/science_technology/story.jsp?
story=513486
It basically says that CD-R data integrity doesn't seem to last as
long as manufacturers claim.
I guess my question that comes from this is what optical media should
one use to archive if one is choosing only an optical media (ie.
DVDs, CD-R, CD-R/W etc.)
Thanx
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Thanks for all the informative posts.
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Hi, I'm looking for a scanner and I am looking at the new Coolscan
series. There is a dramatic difference between the price of each and
I'm trying to decide which to choose. I have some criteria so,
unlike lots of posts I'll try to give some specifics.
1) I don't care about top speed and if the major difference in price
between the two is speed then I'll go with the Coolscan V.
2) I'm not into high volume but I do want to haul out the best
quality for the price. I've noticed in the specs that the 5000 has a
dual CCD and also that the Dmax is a bit higher than the V but I
guess what I'm asking is whether or not the price difference is
reflective of quality.
3) I like taking low light photos, sunsets, sunrises with a lot of
shadow areas so will I get dramatically better results with the
5000. I know that the Dmax and multisampling of the 5000 will make a
difference but is it marginal or large?
I know that evaluating these machines is somewhat subjective but if
anyone can give me some thoughts then that would be great.
In summary, if I cab get a dramatic improvement in quality then I'll
pay for 5000 vs the V and take the extra speed as well, however if
I'm paying for a dramatic improvement in speed and a marginal
improvement in quality I'll save my money and go with the V.
An input would be great!
Dave
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Thanks for all the info, it's been helpful.
Dave
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When I was talking about 'all the same', I was looking at some of the companies featured in the back of some of those photo magazines (Outdoor Photgraper etc.). I checked out B&H and could see it as a distinct company, but then I went to home pages of Broadway Photo, Digital Liquidators and AM Photoworld and they all seemed like the same company with slightly different pages (the 'hold' music on the phone lines was even the same).
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Hi;
I'm from Canada and I'm looking to order some equipment (a film
scanner, possibly a digital SLR) from one of the larger online
retailers in the U.S.
I'm wondering if anyone else from Canada has any experiences with
this, ie shipping troubles, broken goods, pleasant experiences etc.
Also, are any one of these places better than the next? It seems to
me that they're all the same.
Finally, is there a competively priced place in Canada where I can
order equipment? I've been to Vistek.ca and the prices are way above
US outlets, even when you add the exchange, postage and tax.
Thanks,
Dave
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Thanks for the info everyone
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Hi;
I'm looking for a piece of software that will keep track of all my
photo information - negatatives, slides, digital images.
Basically, I want to be able to search and sort everything with
ease. I've been do this with excel, it works fine and it's simple,
but I was wondering if there was a photographic specific program out
there.
Most important thing is that it's not loaded with too many bells and
whistles, I just want to keep track of everything.
Thanx,
Dave
Halo on High Contrast Transitions - Coolscan V
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted