w._veena

<p>Thanks a lot for replying and sorting that out for me! Thanks also for comparing the image quality to more recent lenses, I was of course expecting that to some extent. I'll give the combo a try with some DSLR and see afterwards if I need better quality or not.<br>

<br /> Best wishes<br>

Wolfgang</p>

<p>I don't own any Nikon digital cam, but now with the release of the D700 I'm considering one.</p>

<p>1) Would I be able to use the medical nikkor C 200mm f5.6 with the Nikon D700? I'm not sure about that, and it would be a factor in deciding for or against this camera.<br>

2) What about Nikon cameras with DX factor? Would the lens above work e.g. with a D90 too?</p>

<p>Thanks and best wishes<br>

w.</p>

A bit off topic: The Matrix movies's special effect "bullet time" where a virtual camera records/flies around a kind of frozen or slow-motion scene is also done by the exact syncronisation of photo cameras.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bullet_time

That would make a nice home video project. But two cams are not enough unfortunately :)

I also got fuzzy results from my pola back on a rollei 6008. First I though it's a bug, but then I've seen polas from others and it seems to be normal.

Nevertheless, the polaroids I get from my 545 back (type 52 film) are tack sharp. So I don't really know if it's a polaroid specific thing or something else.

I can't tell you about macro mathematics. It depends which ratio you want to achieve which tube to choose. But there's a flexible tube which gives you different ratios, but I think its expensive. You could also consider the flexible bellows. I use this in combination with the 80mm 2.8 planar and 120mm 5.6 macro lens.

Richard: Please tell us more: What exactly do you refer to? Where would you get those lenses? How do they integrate into the 6008 system? I know that there's a shutter adapter for lenses without shutter but this would pretty much destroy your suggested price range!?

wolfgang

I was just recently thinking about a back for my LF gear which takes 665 film and then I found out that it was to be discontinued soon.

Unfortunately I think that 55 P/N is the only alternative. It's a pity that prices for 55 film are (at least in Europe) much higher than 665.

I like my Rollei 6008 system. No quirks so far. Flash sync at any speed, change your lens whenever you want. Built-in metering. But most other modern MF systems are quite quirkfree as well.

Wolfgang

Thanks so far! I'll go for some tests. Hope I get some nice result to be shown here.

regards

For a new project I plan to double expose 4x5 b/w sheet film. I

don�t have decided the type of film yet, but it should be on the

faster side, maybe 400.

Every photograph should consist of a portrait of a person (exposure

1) and a second (small) object, which should appear on a part of the

person�s skin like a tattoo (rather dark, 2dimensional look).

So, my idea is to (1st) make the portrait (2nd) mark the approx.

position of the �tattoo object� on the ground glass with some

transparent film and a permanent marker (3rd) arrange the �tattoo

object� in front of a white background and align it with the mark on

the ground glass and (4th) make the second exposure.

Well, this is the theory. I know there are lots of other ways to

achieve this, but I want to avoid to create the double exposure in

the darkroom with two negs., and I don�t want to use any digital

manipulation. The big question for me now is how to correctly expose

for this? The �tattoo-object� can appear pretty dark, not much or no

detail is required, just a silhouette. But the portrait overall

should be as balanced as a single exposure, with good gray tones

etc.

As I want to avoid too much trial-and-error testing, which would

probably be rather frustrating, maybe someone could give some rough

tips on how to expose or how I could approximate the right exposure

with some kind of calculation.

Thanks a lot for your input!

Wolfgang

Hi

I'm looking for a manual for a sinar vario rollfilm holder. I got it

used without a manual and there are too many knobs to go for trial

and error. A manual or just some directions on how to operate this

holder would help me a lot.

Regards

Wolfgang

Well, 35mm without a frame is a pain!

I think you won't have problems with the single sheets.

I don't use any frame, just glass as you describe. My negatives don't move relative to the paper.

The emulsion side has to face the paper, maybe that's the problem.

Wolfgang

The Global Rollei Club has some useful information: http://www.sl66.com/slx/models.htm

The 6008 integral is the more recent model and can be controlled with the master control unit, the professional not.

I do not miss any function the integral has over the professional.

regards

wolfgang

Hi

I went to India some years ago, but I wasn't a very experienced photog at that time (neither am I now :)

I did not experience any problems taking pictures except: the formation of curious crowds (if this qualifies as problem..) - I was using a crappy Nikon F60 and that was already a sensation. But I think a Leica is quite inconspicous.

Second I was taking pictures of a railway station and this is something which indian police officers do not like too much (every guidebook says this as well). But no consequences (in my case) except unambiguous signs from the officer's side not to take any more pictures.

It's not your question but I took too much equipment to India. At times it was kind of cumbersome. But it depends of the style of traveling. With backpack I would only bring one small camera an one or two lenses.

I was using color negative and b/w film and was not afraid to have it developed in local photo stores :)) My b/w films got funny grain and color results were not too bad as well. Pretty cheap but nothing what I could recommend.

One more thing: I was proud of bringing back some nice pics from India because this was my first real travel-photography experience. But I've got a new benchmark when I saw what Stefan Rohner shows us from India. I admire his work. It's very inspiring though I doubt if I could create something comparable. http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=527561

Regards

Wolfgang

Hello everyone

I'm a quite frequent guest at the photo.net's Gallery and Critique

Forum. I'm especially interested in fashion photography and even

though there's a lot of great, wonderful stuff to see here, the

fashion-category in my opinion mostly lacks what I would expect to

be "real" fashion photography like what we get to see in magazines.

Are there any websites or communities out there where photographers

share a kind of work which could be more closely called "fashion"?

Or are people who are able to create this kind of art already

too "pro" to share their hard work in communities like photo.net?

Thanks a lot and best regards

Wolfgang

I hope my answer isn't too obvious or stupid. But why not use an additional light source just for focusing? I did this once when focusing was critical and I didn't want to destroy the situation created by the light available. light on, focus, light off, shoot - probably best done with the help of an assistant.

wolfgang

Maybe this thread helps: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DfSN&unified_p=1

I own a Sinar-Rollei adapter myself because I wanted to use my LF-lenses with the Rollei 6008. But actually I haven't used it once. The 150mm lens is already too short to use it at infinity, only my 210mm works.

One useful application could be macro-work if you don't own a bellows for your hasselblad.

Wolfgang

I am using a Polaroid 545 Holder with my large format cameras (Sinar and Linhof) which fits into the international back. With a used Linhof Technika for example you'd have a solid and nice camera, many lens options, rangefinder, movements etc. It will also depend on the printsize you want to get. I use the single-sheets in 4x5, allthough it's not the cheapest way. But the results are very nice.

I don't know too much about any "dedicated" Polaroid cameras.

regards

wolfgang