mormegil

What's holding me back from trading in my 24-105 is the IS. The 24-70 is 1 stop faster in apperture, but the extra IS more than makes up for it in usability. Though, IQ isn't as good.

 

Once Canon puts IS into the 24-70, I'll snap one up right away.

Another happy with Sterlingteks. I also have a couple of Lenmar batteries. They've also held up, but are starting to go (past their expected lifespan at over 4 years old)

Edmund Optics, huh? Great I just threw out their catalog. Any suggestions on what would be a good filter to get from them?

 

The Neutral Density Absorbance filters? Any ideas what thickness?

I've had no luck doing a search for this, so here goes.

 

Anybody know where I can get a rear gel filter for the Sigma 12-24? Or do I

just buy a bigger filter and cut it down? It seems to fit about a 26mm x 26mm

square.

 

I'm looking for a 3 stop ND filter.

 

Thanks

5D doesn't really seem to be a platform to prove new innovations. Really, it was just

innovative for being full frame for relatively little money.

 

We typically see the tech advances in the 1D series first, then see them trickle down, or at the

bottom for "consumers" - lately that would be Live View, 14-bit DAC, sensor cleaning.

 

When the 5D came out, besides the FF, it didn't really have anything that wasn't out there

already (besides the invisible focus points, I think).

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll try it out, then decide to buy an additional application / plugin later.

Hi everyone,

 

I'm currently waiting for my copy of CS3 to arrive. I understand it

has "Advanced Noise Reduction."

 

How does it compare to Noise Ninja / Neat Image? Does it even come close in

usability or results?

 

Thanks

I've heard good things about www.rentglass.com

 

The selection can be a bit limited on short notice, but its seems to be far cheaper than say Calumet (where I've rented from).

The 4L IS has 4 stops IS, and the 2.8L IS has 3 stops, so they sort of equalize out. You won't stop subject motion blur with the IS, but you do get a bit more DoF, so it's up to you what to prioritize.

 

I have the 4L non-IS and the 2.8L IS (selling the 4L soon). I considered the 4L IS, but decided I wanted the High Precision Cross Type AF sensor in my camera to go into 3x accuracy - which you only get with 2.8 or faster lenses.

Read up on this:

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

You've already decided, but here's my 2 cents anyway.

 

Between the 4L IS and 2.8L non-IS, I say go for the IS. The aperture difference is 1 stop, but the IS diffence is 4 stops, equaling 3 stop advantage for the 4L IS.

 

Personally, I was considering the 4L IS vs the 2.8L IS, and went for the 2.8L IS (even though it has 1 less stop of IS, giving parity in hand holdability). Reason is the 2.8 aparture gets you 3x the AF precision with certain cameras, including my 5D.

 

 

I think it's a great idea saving up extra to get the 2.8L IS, you won't regret it. I have the 4L non-IS, and find the new one much more usable (though heavier).

If you want a 1 lens solution, I think the Sigma 18-125 might be up your alley. That'll just boost your image size about 2x. If you really want the reach, I think you'll want at least a 200mm lens.

 

There's the 80-200 or 55-200. They're substantially smaller than the 75-300, but you loose some reach.

 

It's true the 70-300 IS is a better lens, and I'd recommend that if you can swing it.

 

You can always try renting some of these lenses from www.rentglass.com to see if you like them.

 

 

One other thing, a Point and Shoot camera may give you good reach for T-Ball, but would be really lousy at capturing the right moment, due to shutter lag.

Gimp or Gimpshop will do.

 

If you want to emulate a true double exposure, create a new layer with the blend mode set to screen. That's mathematically the same thing as a double exposure.

If you really want a 5D (like I did) and want to upgrade from a 300D (like I did), I suggest sell some pictures. I'm also a student (Grad student no less, so I have even less time than an undergrad).

 

You'd be surprised what people will buy in the microstock world. Paid for my 5D + 24-105 4L, and now paying off my 70-200 2.8L IS.

 

Since you're shooting fashion, you can easily do advertise to do Time for Prints on Craigslist or ModelMayhem in return for Signed Model Releases. Model shots sell like hotcakes on these sites.

 

My prerequisites for upgrading were: 1) Did my camera limit me (yes - noise, 4 frame buffer, and lack of AI-Servo - I was also shooting weddings). 2) Can my photography pay for my ugprade. If you can answer yes to these both, go for it.

 

If you won't consider the 5D, get the 30D if you need it NOW. Otherwise, I think 6 months (speculation on my part) is an OK time to wait if you can stomach it.

Why do people think it's a competition between 35mm and 22.5mm (aka 1.6x crop).

 

People still shot (and shoot) Medium Format and Large Format after 35mm came out. Sure, less people, but there's always a market for it.

 

My guess is the mass market doesn't need 35mm anymore than they need medium format. So 1.6x is here to stay.

 

Similarly, lots of folks need/want the 35mm. So that'll stay.

Well, this should put a fire under Canon's pants. Should be good for the market and consumers.

 

Thanks Nikon!

Turn the big dial on the back counter-clock-wise, until the little mark in the meter goes to the center. If it's already in the center, keep turning until it goes to the left somewhat.

I've heard good things from www.rentglass.com and it's cheaper than the usual brick and mortar places I've rented from (Samy's and Calumet).

Thanks for the help.

 

They just need a shot for a flier. It's a small business, not a chain or anything. They're just starting up.

 

I think they got a friend to come and shoot it. Someone with a wide-angle P&S could probably do something for a black and white flier.

A friend of a friend is opening up a new store. They want shots of the

interior, probably for ad or web usage.

 

I don't plan to bring any strobes, just camera and tripod. Any suggestions on

what to charge?

 

$50-100 / hour?

 

I usually charge $300 / hour for a wedding. This doesn't seem nearly as

involved.

Discontinued?! I guess I'm definately not getting one now!

Are you married to Canon? If not, why not get a Pentax film camera and that pancake lens?

Everything's fine.

 

Read http://photonotes.org/other/ai-servo.html

 

Basically, when you first hit the shutter release in AI-Servo mode, the camera uses "release priority" - meaning the camera makes an exposure when you hit the shutter release, regardless if focus is attained.

 

After that, as long as you hold down the shutter release, the camera is in "focus priority" - meaning it won't make an exposure until focus is attained.

 

So if you're in a hard to AF situation your fps will drop, as the camera has a harder/longer time time to find focus.

I seriously doubt 80%-90% of rebates don't go through.

 

It may seem that way due a vocal minority. Nobody really makes a bit deal when it works.

 

I've done 3 rebates so far and got them all (including from this last round).

Just wanted to point out a typo on Peter's post. I think you meant the sales rep was talking about the $4000 1D MkIIN - not the 1Ds. The 1Ds is around $7000, and has substantially higher image quality than everything in the EOS line besides maybe the 5D (it's 16.7 MPixel and full frame - and comparable to Medium Format film).

 

 

As far as XT or XTi - the image quality difference is probably negligable. The only thing that would push me in the XTi's favor is the anti-dust thing. It's not that big an issue on a non-full frame camera, but it would be handy - especially if you change lenses a lot (like me).